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My new old drill press

C

Carl Goreth

Member
Messages
20
Location
San Jose, CA
I just picked this 1950's era Craftsman up last week from a local carpenter. It's in pretty good shape, been painted once a long time ago but it was a good job. It needs to be taken apart for a good cleaning and lubrication, and new power cord and belt. I'm trying to decide whether to re-paint it or not. No rust to speak of, which is great. If I do I'll post some pictures but it won't be for a while as I'm up to my ears in other things.







 
Well I've finally got around to working on the drill press. I've taken the motor off, removed the paint, cleaned out all the dirt, and re-painted the motor and brackets. I'm ready to put it back together but need a new power cord. What size should I get? The local hardware store only had replacement cords (3-prong) in 16 gauge, called it a medium-duty cord. Will that work?

Thanks,

Carl
 
Technically, it should work, but I typically prefer to go a bit larger like 12 or 14g. (The pic of your motor states it's 8+ amp load)
Also, I have used heavy gauge extension cords to replace old cords - just cut the female end off and tinned the leads.

FWIW,
Wes
 
Wes - thanks, I'll get one sized as suggested.

Another wiring issue, the internal wire that runs from the switch and attaches inside the motor has the insulation worn through in one spot. Should that be replaced or just tape it up? It looks like the insulation is cloth of some sort and the insulation wore thru where it made a bend. (As you can tell I'm not too good on electrical stuff.) If it should be replaced what size wire should I use for that? 14g?

Thanks,

Carl
 
For 8 amps a 16 gage wire is fine. It's rated for 13 amps so you have some headroom with that. I usually will use a 14 gage but with the prices of copper I am using some smaller wire.

If you can replace that skinned wire that would preferable but it may not be practical to replace it. If you do replace it use the same size that is in there. Rather than tape it, find some heat shrink tubing. The Borgs should have it. Just slide over the skinned area and heat it with something so that is shrinks down around the skin.

If you don't do something you run the risk of shorting out the motor and lots of bad things and bad words may happen. :eek: DAMHIK
 
What.................... NO pics :eek:

:D

When it comes to new cords on old machines, I often go the extension cord route, I can buy a good quality extension cord here for about $10, I cut the cord to the length I need for the machine at the male end and attach it to the machine, the rest of the cord gets a new male end, and or is just left for stock.

Now sometimes I get weird colors, not aways black, but I don't care.

The other place I get cords from is the garbage. People throw out things like fridges, and electric heaters, and these often have GOOD quality cords on them, the machine is junk, so I just take my Leatherman and cut the cord off, I've got a few of these lying around all the time, again, good quality cord, three prong plug, price, for free!

Cheers!
 
I do the same as Stu. Always save the cords!

Extensions cords are way cheaper than the same wire off the spool. I just refuse to put an orange cord on a old machine though. Thats where I draw the line. :)
 
Ok, here are a couple of pictures and another question.

I got a new 14g cord (could not find one in the garage that would work) and some shrink wrap for the damaged wire (worked great, thanks).

I took some pictures so I could get it back together again, but the wiring doesn't look right (hey, it's been a couple of weeks). It looks like the 2 wires from the motor hook to one side of the switch, and 2 from the power cord to the other, with the ground going to the mounting bolt. Is that right?





 
Carl Goreth said:
It looks like the 2 wires from the motor hook to one side of the switch,
and 2 from the power cord to the other, w
ith the ground going to the mounting bolt.
Is that right?
Click to expand...

No, that can't be right. I had to replace the switch on mine and you can't have both power cord wires to the same side of the switch. That is a dead short.

What I would expect to see is the black (hot) going the switch. A wire from the other side of the switch going to to two motor leads. (Or the two leads connect straight to the switch) That would give power to the motor.

Then and this is where I am not sure. The OTHER two motor leads would be tied to the white power cord lead. I would have to look at mine but I think that is right.

The green (connected to the ground lug on the socket) would attach to the body of the motor. Grounding it in case of a short. That is very important and could save you life.

If someone else doesn't know for sure I can pull my motor off mine and double check. But what I can't remember is which wires go the capacitor? Unfortunately I didn't photo that part of mine when I had it apart.
 
I don't think it's right either, but that's how it came and it did run. Here's another picture. It shows two yellowish wires going to the capacitor (which I never took off). And there is 1 black wire and 1 green wire coming from the motor.

 
Ok, I found a diagram on OWWM that agrees that the black from the power cord should go to one side of the switch, the black from the motor to the other side. The white should tie to the other motor wire, and the green goes to ground. That makes sense to me, too.
 
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