Rabbit tail jig update rabbeted

I've had this thing in the shop for 7 years and never have figured it out. So when this job came in last week to make to drawers for this vanity I brought it out and told Jarrod to get'er done Well after 2 days of talking with Rockler where I bought the darn thing Jarrod lets out a YE-HA ! and bring the newly fashioned drawer to me and says: Who's the Man
And to think I almost gave this to Larry on his last trip. Soory Bud I had a feeling I would still need it.

Rabbit Tail... don't think I've seen them, I seen dove tails and hearts and teddy bears but no rabbit tails.

Hmm, strange looking neander tool he is using there!???

Don where you been .........O'ya Out West ............

OK I know I'm not way off base here: I spelled it wrong.
Dovetail Joints
Dovetail joints are extremely strong and attractive joints, and are traditionally used on boxes, chests, quality furniture and cabinet drawers. Several types of dovetail joints can be created including: through or open dovetail; lapped or half-blind flush; half-blind rabbeted and secret-miter dovetail. The through dovetail joint exposes the dovetails on both sides of the joint. These are commonly used where the joint is not seen, as on the rear joints of drawers. In some cases, this joint is used to show off the workmanship of the dovetail joints. A lapped dovetail, also called a half-blind dovetail, shows only one side of the dovetail joint, the opposite edge overlapping the dovetail. These can also be cut flush or rabbeted. This joint is quite frequently used to secure drawer fronts on quality construction. A double-lapped dovetail conceals both of the dovetails. A secret-miter dovetail conceals the dovetails in a miter joint.

Regardless of the type of construction, the front and rear pieces are called the pin pieces, and the sides are called the tail pieces. The dovetails in the pin pieces are called pins, and those in the tailpiece are called tails.

I was pulling your leg. That looks close enough to the one I got from Harbor Freight. If ya need a manual go to the HF website and down load it from there.

Thanks Don. Jarrod got Rockler to down load it for him. That boy can figure out anything. I just do not have the patience to figure out stuff like that any more.

thats ok dave yu keep it,, i am tryun to get better at cutting them by hand..and beside yur gonna need it for the next job.. go jarrod

Larry that's exactingly what I told Jarrod.........scene you learned how to use the darn thing it means we will be getting broken drawers in for a while. BTW are you looking for things to spray with lacquer now ?

I have the same jig and love it. The directions that came with the older version, like we have, stink. The directions for their new version are much better. Like Don said, the HF directions are right on and easy.
Through dovetails are real easy on that jig. The half blind dovetails require a spacer block which they don't really explain well. I ended up making several for different thickness of sides. 5/16" and 9/16 " for 1/2 and 3/4 sides.

The only thing I can't quite explain is if I set the jig up with pine boards used for the setup and testing and then use hardwood for the drawers they don't come out quite even.
So when I make a drawer I use the same type wood for the setup as I do for the drawer and they come out perfect.

Jarrod got it done and perfect drawers. Now all I need to do is make them look 100 years old. with new Walnut veneer.

hey dude,, if yur gonna call it by the worng name yu got to show us pictures and of the walnut veer after yu get that far and the final look of the whole she bang

OK OK OK !!!!!!! I just finished up gluing up the drawers and veneering. Be ready to finish Monday

Hey ask Jarrod where his safety glasses are?