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G&G Inspired Chest of Drawers - Build Thread

larry merlau said:
glenn i see you have some triangles that you use for square checking,, how did you make sure they were square. measurment?? and if so what was the size you made them? looks like something that would help out many of us on panel glue ups to make sure they are right before they are set up in the clamps:)
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Those were made on my sled once it was aligned using the 5 cut method to within .001" over 12". I have a half dozen of the large at about 12" on the 90* legs and 4 of the small at about 6" on the 90* legs. The 45* side was not taken into account as they are (as you noticed) clamping squares. Very handy for large carcasses but, as shown I also use them just to double check or to "assist" things into square. I have used them on large piston-fit drawers and have come to trust them despite their humble appearance :).

Rob Keeble said:
Glenn I am glad you returned to the table saw because i thought thats how i would do it and i dont see the merits of the jig.
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The jig was touted as a good solution for tenoning or lapping long boards that would be unwieldy on the table or bandsaw. As I sometimes do, I became enamoured with the idea and tried to use it for something other than the solution it is. Maybe this "fiddling gene" is what slows my progress on my pieces to some degree :rolleyes:. The dado stack and sled was the clear winner with the web frame pieces (they were under 36"). If I were lapping an 8 footer, . . . maybe. :thumb:
 
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Thanks a lot Glenn for posting the whole process. At times I feel like I need a table saw, and you and your posts have a lot to do with it:D.

Unfortunately the prices of good table saws here are prohibitive. the rest are pure junk.:(

Look forward to see the development of this project:lurk::lurk:
 
allen levine said:
pace or no pace, there will never be a day when my work could hold a candle next to your work or Rennie's work.
I do have fun though.
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Hey! Don't lump me in with Glenn! My work only looks good because I take the pictures and don't show the mistakes, dents, finishing mistakes and poor joinery! :rofl::rofl::rofl:

Glenn's an artist!:thumb::thumb:
 
Toni Ciuraneta said:
Thanks a lot Glenn for posting the whole process. At times I feel like I need a table saw, and you and your posts have a lot to do with it:D
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We'll see how you all feel in a month or so when I am still posting about the same piece :D.

Many folks make many fine pieces without a tablesaw in sight. It just happens to be how I learned. I always enjoy learning new things but, giving up my tablesaw might not be a lesson I would rush to learn :rofl:.

Rennie Heuer said:
Hey! Don't lump me in with Glenn! My work only looks good because I take the pictures and don't show the mistakes, dents, finishing mistakes and poor joinery!:
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Shhh, quiet Rennie. You're going to give away the secrets to our 'success' :eek:.
 
Ahhhh, Planer Sled . . . .

Four of the corner pieces are 7-7/8" wide. I like to leave a little more fat than that when sizing parts so the planer sled got dug out of the wall rack and put to work.

CoD-crnr-wide (1).jpg CoD-crnr-wide (2).jpg

Ahh, a good bit oversize and nary a sign of the snipe monster.

CoD-crnr-wide (3).jpg

Some of the other boards I want 3/4" pieces out of are only about 25/32" to start. I will have to percolate for awhile on whether to use them or re-saw into this fat boy.

CoD-crnr-wide (4).jpg

I may have to work on the Garrett Hack wall cabinet door tomorrow whilst I ponder this . . . .

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glenn, in the old furniture they would quite often have rough surfaces inside a area that wasnt seen, so that could make use of your thinner than wanted lumber..you really dont want to cut up a nice piece of 8/4 for some thinner boards..and if you dont like the rough surface idea you can just alter your thickness to accept the thinner boards after clean up..no one will know they are thinner but you:)
 
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Larry's words have inspired me to move ahead. I have been under the weather for 2 days and so have done nothing except for the last couple hours of today. I know, excuses, excuses. I use 1/4" MDF for templates and faired the cloudlift curve for the side stiles. I cut close with my little 10" bandsaw and then use files, shaves and such to pull the curve to where I want it.

CoD-side-clouds (1).jpg CoD-side-clouds (2).jpg

This is a little hard to explain but, there are cloud lifts on the side stiles rotated 90* (so the lift is actually a widening of the opening). The end result is an open space that echos a tsuba shape and will be filled by a split floating panel assembly (I should just be quiet, my explanation is more confusing than pure silence).

At any rate, there will be a large stopped rabbet on each stile to accept the panel which will be locked in by the web frames and so forth from behind. I swear it will make more sense a few posts from now.

CoD-side-clouds (3).jpg

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I'm still swinging . . . I square out the ends of the stopped rabbet and set up the router table to cut the through rabbet that will accept the second piece of the corner stile.

Stile shape n glue 001.jpg Stile shape n glue 002.jpg

This seam has to be pretty clean to achieve that vanishing effect that makes the corner stiles appear to be one piece. I use the router table to set up the marking gauge and use it to run a score along the cut line.

Stile shape n glue 003.jpg Stile shape n glue 004.jpg

I use the small bandsaw to rough cut the cloud lift. Double stick the template to the blank and have at it.

Stile shape n glue 005.jpg Stile shape n glue 006.jpg

This gives you a general idea of the floating panel appearance. None of the softening of the curves has been done at this point. The ever-handy medium shoulder plane makes for a nice fit.

Stile shape n glue 007.jpg Stile shape n glue 008.jpg Stile shape n glue 009.jpg

I clamp it well and go inside to post on the forum . . .

Stile shape n glue 010.jpg

oh wait, I'm already here :). Anyway, by the time I have another blank ready to clamp up this one should be set enough to place off to the side.

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This is so depressing I just have to share. I just ripped down two nice 10" wide boards . . . (wait for it) . . . an inch too narrow! :eek: :doh::eek:

This will succeed in bringing me to a near full stop as I have no other wide stock that has the figure I am after. My local yard's supply has been officially poor as of late so I guess I am looking at a run to Upland (Cherokee Wood Products) or a visit down to mom and dad's (Saroyan Lumber) :dunno:. I'll swing by the local yard at lunch tomorrow to see if they have brought in any new material.
 
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This guy may end up being an orphan if I can't match the figure but, at least it can show the two piece leg joint:

Stile Joint Test (1).jpg

The wide surface is seam free. The small surface has an 1/8" overlay that almost disappears into the figure:

Stile Joint Test (2).jpg

Built like this, looks like that:

Stile Joint Test (3).jpg Stile Joint Test (4).jpg

Here's the same joint in a 'somewhere mid-build' shot from the bookcase awhile back:

GnG-BC-first-coats-top-fram.jpg

The joint is essentially taken from Garrett Hack's small wall cabinet and used on a larger scale.
 
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This is so depressing I just have to share. I just ripped down two nice 10" wide boards . . . (wait for it) . . . an inch too narrow!

I thought you had one of those wood stretchers Glenn.... :D
Great build so far, looking forward to seeing this piece come to life.
 
I finished up weed patrol and policed the irrigation system so, back to the shop. When I am trying something new and there are multiple occurrences, I take advantage by going through the steps on one item to learn where to watch for potholes. Here's the point I want to get to on all four stile assemblies.

CoD Side Template 1.jpg

I rough out the large stopped rabbet on the remaining three blanks.

CoD Side Template 2.jpg

The cloud lift will be cut into the remaining thickness of 3/8". The 1/8" blade in the small BS is fine for this. Doesn't have to be too accurate; just stay on the spoil side of the line :rolleyes:

CoD Side Template 3.jpg CoD Side Template 4.jpg

The stiles are asymmetrical so I triple check each move to make sure I am on 'left-front, right-rear and so forth. Double stick the template, hit the router table and I end up here.

CoD Side Template 5.jpg CoD Side Template 6.jpg

I need to chisel-square the end of the stopped dados then I can glue in the narrow stiles and go grab some lunch.
 
well you wont be the last one to cut the boards wrong glenn:)n and looks like yo have got your moneys worth out of that chisel earlier in your pics.. if i dnt know better i would say it was one of those japeneeze chisels with a short cutter:)
 
The chisel is one of Lee Valley's butt chisels. Inexpensive and they really hold an edge. Interestingly the handle color and shape matches an "Olympia" chisel that I picked up at an Ace hardware store over 30 years ago(?).

I just officially fell in love with this low angle spoke shave . . . again. Its working great for the edge treatment I am after. I thought I was going to have to use a router.

stile shaping 001.jpg

A little trouble spot I'll have to deal with during finishing.

stile shaping 002.jpg

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I am in that phase where a lot of stuff happens but, the results are less than fascinating. The sides of the piece are frames that will house floating panels. These are essentially rail and stile assemblies. The approach I am taking is to make the web frames and "fit" the other parts around them. The "rail" is the little piece I am pointing to. These parts were cut a bit oversized and using the web frames as a guide I fit the rail with the shooting board. The rails and stiles will be joined with floating tenons.

CoD Parts Side Frames 001.jpg CoD Parts Side Frames 002.jpg

The wide rabbets are part of a joinery design I tested during a small bookcase build that was a prototype for this carcass idea. They are roughed out with a dado stack and fit with hand planes.

CoD Parts Side Frames 003.jpg

Once assembled the sides will look something like this. Please ignore the maple pieces, they are just holding things up for the pic.

CoD Parts Side Frames 004.jpg

Here you can see the panel opening that echos the tsuba detail that G&G used quite a bit.

CoD Parts Side Frames 005.jpg

Hard to believe I burned up the whole weekend to get the two sides to this point ;)


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