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storage needed in unused space

Rennie Heuer said:
This is coming along nicely!:thumb: The arch looks great and you did a really nice job on the trim.
A craftsman you are.:) Keep the pictures coming.
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Thank you Rennie, very kind of you.:)


Ed Nelson said:
I'm thinking the plinths and base for the cabinet? This is really looking good. Is the molding in the last pic attached to the door? It looks like the break is there for the door swing.
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Way to go Ed, you are right on.
I needed the doors hung and the jamb in place to figure the plinth that I had planned for under them when set and thus the distance could be determined for the width of the base.
making base 1.jpgmaking base 2.jpgmaking base 3.jpg
To answer your question, No, the molding above the door is not attached to the door. It is actually covering the edge of the 3/4" plywood box top, nailed in to that plywood making the door a flush door.( don't mind all the "attached" labels. I was trying not to be computer illiterate but failed)
 

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Looks like that molding cutter works well. Dad has one that he has had for a while and, I think, just tried out. I may have to look into one...cheaper than a shaper! Project is looking good!

By the way, why the split in the upper molding? Just a design element?
 
Ed Nelson said:
Looks like that molding cutter works well. Dad has one that he has had for a while and, I think, just tried out. I may have to look into one...cheaper than a shaper! Project is looking good!

By the way, why the split in the upper molding? Just a design element? Where is that split of which you speak? Between what colors in the drawing?
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Hi Ed, :wave:
The molding knives do present some extremely creative options. I use the three wing cutters alot. I have 2 deltas and a friend's craftsman head for mounting the cutters into. Then too there are the single steel 2 wing cutters, old dewalts that have some great profiles. When using them it is best to use the biggest piece of wood you have and after molding it plan on cutting it to size. They run better through big stock, less vibration.
I need to go. Be gone from computer about 10 days. Be safe and be good.
Shaz
 
Shaz

Looks great, obviously I'm just "catching up" on posts The workmanship is wonderful and this thread is great. That is a neat idea to color code the parts

Jay
 
Robert Schaubhut said:
Hi Ed, :wave:
The molding knives do present some extremely creative options. I use the three wing cutters alot. I have 2 deltas and a friend's craftsman head for mounting the cutters into. Then too there are the single steel 2 wing cutters, old dewalts that have some great profiles. When using them it is best to use the biggest piece of wood you have and after molding it plan on cutting it to size. They run better through big stock, less vibration.
I need to go. Be gone from computer about 10 days. Be safe and be good.
Shaz
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Here is the pic that I was questioning.http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5963&d=1173887802
Split was probably the wrong term. The molding has a 40* cut. I'm trying to figure that one out. Hope the 10 days is a vacation!
 
Ed Nelson said:
Here is the pic that I was questioning.http://familywoodworking.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5963&d=1173887802
Split was probably the wrong term. The molding has a 40* cut. I'm trying to figure that one out.Hi Ed, :wave: , I should have clarified that photo as ' one showing the step back and the way it would be joined up'. When finished there was no crack. Hope the 10 days is a vacation! Thanks for the thought. Wish it had been. It was a "had to do it".
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With a blank wall below a glass display caseband (1).jpg
and a predetermined cabinet, sized and built to insert into said hole (hole cut 1/4" wider and 1/4" taller, through the sheetrock, marked after cutting a template of cardboard that size and tracing it on the wall where it needed to be) I needed to then cut out the studs that were in my way. I did that then added a stud to the right side behind the sheetrock, and some 2x4s stacked and laid flat to allow for the box to slide in at the right height and be secured through the floor and the side walls with 1 1/4" screws The "prehung casing" was also a big help in alligning the face of the box. box with doors.jpg
 

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Needed was the molding to #1 cap the arch, #2 cap the mahogany casing, #3 allow the upper glass case casing somewhere comfortable to set.molding to cap shelf.jpg
This piece is the horizontal piece above the arch that is not color coded.BandD 008.jpg
 
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Once the hole was cut and the new 2x4s were inserted and secured around the perimeter of the hole, the box was inserted and secured. The top sill needed 45 degree returns to the wall cut and nailed to it, this done, it was held in place and the bottom marked on the sheetrock. With this mark I now knew how high to run the casing and the top of the arch.:)
Then considering that I wanted a 1/8" space below the doors I could cut the casing to fit and secure it, as well as the top sill and the arch. All this done, I could trim my plinth blocks and base to height and secure.
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Ed Nelson said:
That's really looking good Shaz. Those pics answered my question from the previous post.

Glad to have you back online!
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Hi Ed, :wave:
Thank you. You are well I hope.
I have to go back to set in a little wine rack so I will try to remember the camera and get some photos of it painted.
This is a flat screen alcove redo I had done previously at the same residence, on the opposite wall from the glass display. B and D 008.jpg
The one thing about a big city is the number of wealthy clients. I could never do, even the small volume of commission work I do in my home town of Beaver Falls, Pa.

.
 
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