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Hi guys,
I think people use wax if they never expect to move the stoppers. I think it's a bad idea. A gooey mess that makes it harder if you do tune them. I touch up my tuning occasionally as the weather changes. Never need to move them more that a fraction of an inch.
Regarding pipe length, I cut mine so about half of the tuning handle is showing. Easy to grab to move it.
Save that wax ring to lube screws

Bob
 
john clayton said:
Paul, do you know how they use the wax? It seems like it would mess up the chamois on the stoppers. Maybe I just don't have the vision yet.
Click to expand...

This is what he wrote: "
Also look at the corners of the stopper leather. Another organ guy uses a small amount of beeswax on the stopper leather to stop leakage and cause them to grip a little. It never hardens. Where to get beeswax? Toilet ring. About $4 for a lifetime supply"
 
That was sent to me from a friend that I sent pictures and video of my grinder (didn't want to say organ) to. She was a big supporter and always acted very interested while I was building it. I loved the little guy, couldn't resist using it.
 
Just about time to bolt it together.

Finished - rear.jpgFinished - front.jpg

This is the mount for the pipes. Because I will have all 17 out front, I had to choose between bringing the pipes forward enough for the air hoses to clear the bellows and reservoir, or mount them a little higher than usual, and leave them the normal distance forward. I have decided on the latter, which will necessitate extending the height of the organ front a little -- kind of like this Belgian organ:

Raised Top Organ.jpg

I'm kind of making it up as I go -- we'll see what happens.
 
Looking Fine, John!

I just broke one of my bass pipes. I was going to see if I could get the mouth off and see if I could make it sound a little better. The glue held better than the wood. Now to make a new one.
 
john clayton said:
Just about time to bolt it together.

View attachment 75784View attachment 75785

This is the mount for the pipes. Because I will have all 17 out front, I had to choose between bringing the pipes forward enough for the air hoses to clear the bellows and reservoir, or mount them a little higher than usual, and leave them the normal distance forward. I have decided on the latter, which will necessitate extending the height of the organ front a little -- kind of like this Belgian organ:

View attachment 75786

I'm kind of making it up as I go -- we'll see what happens.
Click to expand...

John I like the way that looks. Did you paint that picture on the front or some other way, what ever you did it looks GOOD :thumb::thumb:
 
Paul Douglass said:
Looking Fine, John!

I just broke one of my bass pipes. I was going to see if I could get the mouth off and see if I could make it sound a little better. The glue held better than the wood. Now to make a new one.
Click to expand...

Paul et al,

In the plans John suggests something called "Copydex" to glue the fronts on the pipes. It's a glue only available in the UK. It stays flexible and you can pull it apart.
I contacted the manufacturer and they told me that "Loctite® Handyman's All-Purpose Adhesive" is the equivalent US product. It's a white adhesive in a tube. You can brush it on, it dries clear, and you can pull it apart later.

Bob
 
Bob Meyer said:
Paul et al,

In the plans John suggests something called "Copydex" to glue the fronts on the pipes. It's a glue only available in the UK. It stays flexible and you can pull it apart.
I contacted the manufacturer and they told me that "Loctite® Handyman's All-Purpose Adhesive" is the equivalent US product. It's a white adhesive in a tube. You can brush it on, it dries clear, and you can pull it apart later.

Bob
Click to expand...

Good info Bob, I will check it out. I have been wondering if heat glue would work. Them if it is necessary to separate parts you can.
 
Let's talk tuning. I have the A# pipe that I cannot get tuned to a perfect A# but it will tune to a perfect, middle of the meter B' (don't see a keyboard symbol for a flat). I've seen on some plans where it indicated that an A# and a B' were essentially the same. Is that right?
 
Paul,
My pipe organist wife tells me that A sharp and B flat are the same note -- so you were right. You tune to B flat.

Also, Bob -- thanks for the info about the pull-apart glue. Next time I will use that. I'm afraid that using Titebond, like I did, if I ever need to move the top cap it will involve the table saw :)

Jay, I wish I had done that organ I showed in my previous post. I think it is Belgian. I used it as an example of what I will probably try to do with my own organ, to accommodate the pipes that are mounted higher than usual. I have been thinking of finding some way to transfer a "gypsy-esque" scene of some sort, maybe a gypsy wagon or a wandering busker, onto the front. Haven't found what I want yet.
 
john clayton said:
Paul,
My pipe organist wife tells me that A sharp and B flat are the same note -- so you were right. You tune to B flat.

Makes me feel better, thank your wife, please

Also, Bob -- thanks for the info about the pull-apart glue. Next time I will use that. I'm afraid that using Titebond, like I did, if I ever need to move the top cap it will involve the table saw :)

I have been able to get the end pieces off pretty easily. I think it is because I have a real dense wood glued to end grain.


Jay, I wish I had done that organ I showed in my previous post. I think it is Belgian. I used it as an example of what I will probably try to do with my own organ, to accommodate the pipes that are mounted higher than usual. I have been thinking of finding some way to transfer a "gypsy-esque" scene of some sort, maybe a gypsy wagon or a wandering busker, onto the front. Haven't found what I want yet.

Yep, I'd like to figure out how to get some neat pictures on. I have good luck with decals on pens but that is real small, putting a big decal on, would, I think be much more difficult. I keep figuring that all these people that have the neat scenes and graphic can't all be that artistic/talented. There has to be another way.
Click to expand...

I'm done
 
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I've been working real hard on tuning my pipes. As I work I've been trying to think of a way to make it so you have the stopper attached to a threaded shaft so you can adjust by turning a screw. Anyone ever done this? I almost have it worked out in my head, the hard part is picturing how I have the plug attached to a turning threaded rod. Maybe I just having a "pipe dream".
 
Bob Meyer said:
Paul et al,

In the plans John suggests something called "Copydex" to glue the fronts on the pipes. It's a glue only available in the UK. It stays flexible and you can pull it apart.
I contacted the manufacturer and they told me that "Loctite® Handyman's All-Purpose Adhesive" is the equivalent US product. It's a white adhesive in a tube. You can brush it on, it dries clear, and you can pull it apart later.

Bob
Click to expand...

I emailed Loctite yesterday to get their opinion, because what I read about their product it sounded like a permanent bond to me. This response arrived this morning. To me it doesn't mean it wouldn't work the way we would want it to, to me, it means they didn't design it to come apart after glueing. I'd have to try it,

"Thank you for e-mailing Henkel Corporation concerning our products. We appreciate the time you took to contact us.

Unfortunately, we do not make a product similar to Copy Dex.

If you have any questions, comments or suggestions, please feel free to call us at (800) 624-7767, Monday through Friday, between the hours of 9:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. Eastern Time; or visit us on the Web at www.loctiteproducts.com, www.osipro.com or www.lepageproducts.com.

Thank you again for e-mailing Henkel Corporation.

Sincerely,

Consumer Relations Representative
Henkel Corporation"
 
Paul Douglass said:
I emailed Loctite yesterday to get their opinion, because what I read about their product it sounded like a permanent bond to me. This response arrived this morning. To me it doesn't mean it wouldn't work the way we would want it to, to me, it means they didn't design it to come apart after glueing. I'd have to try it,

"Thank you for e-mailing Henkel Corporation concerning our products. We appreciate the time you took to contact us.

Unfortunately, we do not make a product similar to Copy Dex.

If you have any questions, comments or suggestions, please feel free to call us at (800) 624-7767, Monday through Friday, between the hours of 9:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. Eastern Time; or visit us on the Web at www.loctiteproducts.com, www.osipro.com or www.lepageproducts.com.

Thank you again for e-mailing Henkel Corporation.

Sincerely,

Consumer Relations Representative
Henkel Corporation"
Click to expand...

Paul,
I had this exact same conversation with them (Henkel). I described exactly what I was doing. They finally suggested "Loctite® Handyman's All-Purpose Adhesive" They even sent me a sample tube. It works perfectly for gluing pipe caps on. You can put a blade into the joint and it comes right apart. It's not easy to find in a store. I've found it on-line, but have not needed to order any more.

This is what I have.
http://www.ace4parts.com/Products/LOCTITE-Handyman-Choice-No-Fume-Adhesive-and-Sealant-2oz__LT-25827.aspx

Bob
 
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Okay I bookmarked it and when I start my next organ, I will get some. Thanks.

I haven't searched but I also bet there are some of the adhesives/sealants used in boat building that would work that way also.
 
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