Kitchen Hutch - Build Thread - Done

good to see youre getting some time for this hutch.

A little more progress. My original plan for the full width breadboard was structurally sound but, I didn't like the look. Percolated for a day and am now happy with the method and the look.

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There will be a piece of trim under the top and above the pullout to fill that gap (leaving clearance for pullout operation).

that should work well glenn..

The appearance of eight drawers in the lower unit hides four larger bins. These are for counter top appliances, pots and pans and so forth. I have found that running large blanks of drawer-lock profiles and then cross cutting to size yields better results for me. The tall fence jig comes in handy for this. A small piece from my setup lets me check for accuracy along the length of the cut; nothing like finding a boo-boo halfway into assembly and having to re-setup for the profile .



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After I have enough material with the proper opposing profiles, I just cross cut to size. Here's the general appearance of the larger bin. The upper front-to-back supports (mini-sides?) may be as shown or may end up down a bit from the top; I'm still percolating.



All the "drawer" boxes receive false fronts like so.

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I keep a 3/4 view of the finished unit hanging around to keep me on track as to where I am eventually going .

Must be a girl cabinet.

Enjoy,
Dad

I should stop and count exactly how many parts there are in this thing . . . Tape is your friend when you are pre-finishing.

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I always get a little burst of energy when the drawer boxes start going in.

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The made pulls have the finish on them and are hanging out to dry



I know there is a long way to go but, it is one of the high points in a build for me .

lookin' good!!

that pecan sure is pretty wood glenn, are those handles concave in the frnt face? if so you seemed to have neglected the making of them, or perhaps i missed it..

I agree with Larry...the pecan sure looks nice. Thanks for the pics, I'm enjoying the ride-along.

larry merlau said:

that pecan sure is pretty wood glenn, are those handles concave in the frnt face? if so you seemed to have neglected the making of them, or perhaps i missed it..

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Thanks all. Thread on shop made pulls: http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?28896-Shop-Made-Pulls&highlight=

I'd picked out the boards for the drawer fronts so long ago I almost forgot what they looked like. I dug them out of the lumber rack to get a look. The figure will traverse drawer fronts from left to right on each pair. I select the portion of the figure that I am after and draw some guidelines.

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Then its over to the bandsaw to remove the spoil. I can now joint a face and edge and thickness the material to end up just over size:

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The lumber is well acclimated but, after milling to oversize, I let the material set again at least overnight.



Tomorrow after work I can finish size the pieces and start raising the faces.

glenn what is the alum straight edge you show there with a ruler tape on it?

Glenn, this has been an outstanding project. Really like the front feature of four drawers for two real ones. Classic look with modern usage. Just caught up on the threads last night and thought I better let you know I am still following and liking it alot!

larry merlau said:

glenn what is the alum straight edge you show there with a ruler tape on it?

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That is a 50" one of these. My local Rockler had a sale awhile back and it hit a price point I couldn't resist. They also had a set of three for about $80 but, I already have a short one that I use as a fence on my small bandsaw and the in-between lengths don't do me any good. The 50" I use for scoring long crosscuts for a clean, fray-free edge. It also happened to be handy for drawing long lines that were not parallel to the material's edge as in my drawer front boards.

Jonathan Shively said:

Glenn, this has been an outstanding project. Really like the front feature of four drawers for two real ones. Classic look with modern usage. Just caught up on the threads last night and thought I better let you know I am still following and liking it alot!

Click to expand...

Thanks Jonathan. I sometimes make a lot of small incremental posts with a lot of pictures that may or may not be helpful. Nice to hear I am giving something back to this great bunch of folks here ;-) Who knows? I may finish this thing by my birthday next month.

Still rolling along although I should probably be cleaning up for Carol's visit tomorrow . . . .

There are a bunch of ways to mount drawer false fronts. My method will vary depending on pull type, drawer size, etc. For these I stick a couple pieces of carpet tape on the back. I drill a couple 3/16" holes for the 1/8" shank super-washer-head screws I will use.

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I take a 1/16" strip of 3/4" MDF and use it as a spacer. I'm not going for perfect here, I just need to be close. The oversized holes allow me a bit of wiggle later.



With the drawer closed I use the spacer to set the top gap and eyeball the sides, then press the front to the box. The tape holds the front on long enough for me to open the drawer and add a couple clamps. I will pull the tape back off as it is the thicker gummy kind and has a conspicous thickness if left in place. I need to take the drawer fronts off to prep them for finishing anyway. The screws are self-drilling but, pecan is hard so I use a 7/64" pilot hole and drive the screws home. Here's the first two; six to go.

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yeah like you need to clean up your shop.. youjust wanted to get more done so she could see the progress.. we both know she is a whip snapper

I didn't get too much done tonight. I fixed up the raised panel jig as discussed here. That helped me quickly hog off the raised panel edges on the last four false fronts. I dress them up with a smoother to get them ready for finishing. I need to run to the hardware store for some items for the yard (domestic duties tomorrow morning).



All false fronts are now rough fitted. Once I plane the mill marks off and finalize their positions, I'll drill for the pulls. The washerhead screws allow for some adjustment and then the pull screws lock thing in place as well as hold the pulls on ;-)



Obviously making things for others is nice and its an honor to have people want your work. However, having some uninterrupted time to make some decent progress on this lower cabinet feels pretty good too .

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The varying elevations are working out for me. Once the finish pops the figure in the pecan I think it'll work out.

Silly me. I thought I would be putting on the second coat by now . I always go over everything one last time before committing to the finish. This keeps me from being in mid-finish and suddenly noticing "something" that I don't want "right there". During this effort I realized I wanted to complete some outstanding items before I started putting finish on. So anyway, the drawer-fronts have all passed inspection, been positioned and drilled for pulls.



I installed some internal structure that will make a sort of resting surface for the wide pullout when it is "at rest" to prevent sag over the possibly several months between uses.

I also went ahead and drilled for the figure 8 fasteners that will partially hold the top onto this lower section. There has been discussion about these here before so, here's how I do it. Normally these are exposed on the inside but, due to the construction of this lower section, they will poke out each side but, be hidden by a couple inches of overhang from the breadboarded (sp?) top.

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I use a Forstner to drill a "mortise", use a wheel gauge to scribe the outer surface and then pare with a chisel to that line to create an opening that will allow the figure 8 to move as things expand and contract throughout the year.