Shaker wall clock

Rennie Heuer

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My next build is a shaker wall clock in walnut. Based on the new yankee workshop version Norm built way back in the beginning of his tv show, it comes from a design that came out of Mount Lebanon in 1840. I'll make a couple of very small changes, but stay as true to the design as possible.

It stands just under 34" tall and 12" wide. Lots of interesting mortise and tenon joinery on the doors and the back is from a single board. I redrew the entire plan in sketchup to familiarize myself with all the dimensions and joinery.
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In prepping the stock I came across some really nice figure that I saved for the sides of the case and the door panel. This should be a fun build.

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First "real" woodworking project I built. Mine was mahogany that I recycled from an old dresser that me in my ignorance thought was cherry! I've built a couple since and always enjoy making them. I can't wait to see yours in walnut.
 
Does anyone else do this?

Like everyone, I map out what parts are coming from each part of a board prior to rough cutting to length. Usually a pencil on light woods, chalk on dark woods. Of course, the first trip through the jointer or planer obliterates those markings and you might be left with a guessing game that might spell disaster later in the process. So, I've begun using a sharpie on the ends of the boards after they are cut to length. I mark both the part name and the final thickness and remember to look before sending it through the planer. I also try to write as close to center on the end grain so the markings won't disappear as the board gets thinner.

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Used chalk in past and it usually rubs off. Now to get the white sharpie. Try to mark all my pieces as Murphy has jumped up a time or two and screwed up the build.
I like the end marking idea.
David
 
Got the case cut, joinery done and put a coat of danish oil on the interior parts of the case. Too late did I do research on finishing walnut to find out many prefer a tung oil varnish. I like the way the danish oil brings up the color and grain of the walnut, but I am concerned about a top coat. Really do not want to use a poly or lacquer. Was thinking about staying with the danish oil and then paste wax after it has dried for several days. Also though about using the tung oil varnish over the danish oil.

Any thoughts?

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Looking good, Rennie! For most of my work with walnut and cherry, I've made my own "Danish oil" mixture: BLO/Naphtha/Polyurethane in a 1/1/1 ratio - rub it in and rub it off before it dries. Three coats give it a nice look. Sometimes, I make the final coat a 1/1/2 ratio for a tougher finish.

I've used a little tung oil on a few items but it's always the first thing to go on because it soaks in easier. Not sure about tung oil on top of a previous layer of anything.
 
Looking good, Rennie! For most of my work with walnut and cherry, I've made my own "Danish oil" mixture: BLO/Naphtha/Polyurethane in a 1/1/1 ratio - rub it in and rub it off before it dries. Three coats give it a nice look. Sometimes, I make the final coat a 1/1/2 ratio for a tougher finish.

I've used a little tung oil on a few items but it's always the first thing to go on because it soaks in easier. Not sure about tung oil on top of a previous layer of anything.

Thanks Bill, it hadn't occurred to me to add poly to the mix. Will have to experiment with that. I haven't use danish oil in a while but I seem to remember that several coats can build a low luster sheen which is what I am after.
 
According to Bob Flexner, "Danish Oil" is a mixture of oil, varnish and thinner. Contrary to the directions on the can, he recommends applying a first coat; then after wiping it, letting it dry overnight; then sanding lightly and applying a second (and subsequent) coat, wiping, and letting it/them dry overnight.

With three coats, I've achieved a pretty nice, low-sheen finish. YMMV...
 
Here is one of the clocks with the first coat of oil flooded on. I love the waviness of the grain and this Walnut. These are going to turn out nice!

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The figure sure looks nice with some oil on it. I've had good success following Jim's suggestion for Danish oil (and other oil/varnish/thinner mixes like Antique Oil and Formby's Tung Oil Finish). In my dry climate, though, I have to start wiping after about 5 minutes instead of 15. Otherwise it gets too tacky.

...Too late did I do research on finishing walnut to find out many prefer a tuna oil varnish...

I've been looking for a good source for tuna oil. All I can find is cod liver, lol. :D
 
Clock Face

In the past I've purchased clock faces from ClockPrints. They are EXPENSIVE ($26 for the one I'm looking at compared to $1.50 to $6 for the same size and style elsewhere) but are of the highest quality photo printed on heavy weight photographic paper as opposed to laser printed on cardstock. I need two faces to complete my shaker clocks.

I've been uncertain of the best color (white or ivory) and finish (luster, linen. plain) to use to best complement the clock and give them a more 'antique' look. So, I contacted the company via their contact form on the website about 10 days ago. Then followed up with two emails, two phone calls, another email, and then another phone call (all calls went to voicemail) just yesterday. I have yet to receive a response. Like I said, I have purchased from them in the past and they have always been both helpful and prompt in their response. I have no idea what has changed but, whatever it is, it is standing in the way of my completing these clocks.

I've looked high and low on the web for an alternative. I've found a couple that are the right size but not of comparable quality. What I need is a 7" Roman dial on heavy paper at least 9" square - probably in an ivory or parchment color paper. Noe of the bigger suppliers have this (Klokit, etc.) so I am hoping there is some small outfit out there that someone here might know about. Any suggestions? Oh, BTW, I'll post some pics of the 'almost finished' clocks later today.
 
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Still waiting for a callback from the clock face supplier. Oddly enough I gave up on waiting for a call and placed the order. I had the faces in my hands in 3 business days! Can't answer a call or email in over three weeks but can ship an order next day. Go figure. :huh:

Anyway, here's the finished project. Solid figured walnut throughout, Brusso hinges, oil finish. I used natural Danish oil putting on three coats then sanding in the fourth coat with 1,000 grit. After a few days to dry completely I rubbed on two coats of paste wax.

I made a couple of changes to the original plan. One was mounting the clock face. The original plan had it permanently attached and you reached up behind the face to replace the battery. My hand just could not fit and certainly could never maneuver a battery in place. So, I have the faces held in with a magnet so you can put a couple of fingers behind the face and gently push it out to replace the battery.

Enjoy - as always, critiques are welcome.

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