That Drill Chuck is on Tight!

glenn bradley

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I had removed and replaced my drill chuck a few times prior to sending my 17-950 in for service. They must have used a press or something because that guy will not come off.

Bearing in mind that the temps here have been 100+ for a while and the service guys may not be at fault. I used a block of wood and a 16oz hammer to tap it as hard as I dared.

Just in case the old freezer trick doesn't work, does anyone have any tips? I am going to give a keyless chuck a try (when I get the Jacobs off that is).
 
Reciently acquired an older model Craftsman DrillPress (50s) and the Chuck seems to wobble abit. Bit it drill true and on the mark. Any suggestions for the Quill?
 
Glen,
The drill has a taper chuck holder.
Have you tried spraying it with penetrating oil and letting it soak over night?

Let me know which key-less chuck you go with, I've been thinking of
converting my 17-950 also.
 
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Have you got a threaded extractor that you could use on the pushing motion rather than pulling? You know those used to extract bearings from shafts.

It is the only idea I can have without seeing it.
 
Have you got a threaded extractor that you could use on the pushing motion rather than pulling? You know those used to extract bearings from shafts.

It is the only idea I can have without seeing it.

Unfortunately the chuck does not have a through hole to allow this but, thanks for the idea ;-)
 
Pickle fork? Not sure if it has an official name.... used for separating ball joints, they have tapered shafts too.

What's the freezer trick? You got an empty freezer that big? :D

I betcha heat would actually improve the situation, cold would just make it tighter. Stick a propane torch on it for a while. Not til it turns blue, just til its hot enough to burn your shoe when it falls off :D

Why didn't I think of the pickle fork? Probably because I don't work on cars but, a neighbor does, thanks. I have freed tapers by placing them in the freezer for about an hour and then giving the joint a tap.
 
OK, which part are we talking about here...........

removing_spindle_adapter.jpg
If you want to remove the spindle adapter with the chuck attached, you use a wedge shaped drift pin to do so.

spindle_adapter.jpg
If you want to remove the chuck from the spindle adapter, then you need that "Pickle Fork" that John is talking about.

What you really want is two of these, they are usually fairly thin, look >> HERE << on how to remove your chuck.

Cheers!
 
At work in the electronics shop they have cans of freeze they spray on components to cool them off for troubleshooting. Guess it would be a longshot, but if you sprayed a can of that onto that chuck it might cool it to the point of it shrinking enough to pop off. Might be hard to just get the chuck itself cold though, and not the surrounding parts.
 
Bummer. Unless I am being mis-told, the chuck removal wedges are for chucks without the spindle/taper adapter (see Stu's diagrams). The wedges would just pull the adapter out of the spindle and I can already do that with the drift key.

Please chime in if I am being misinformed. The wedges are only a few bucks but I'm told they are for a different function. It may be the firetorch after all. ;-)
 
Try soaking in penetrating oil over night, worth a try.

Ever thought of just keeping that chuck in the spindle adapter and
buying a new spindle adapter for the new keyless chuck?

Guess that could be a lot of bucks though.
 
Yes Glenn, in this case, with the spindle adapter, you have, the wedges will not work :doh:

If you look at this pic.......
MTchuckarbors.jpg
the spindle adapter, second from the left, on that type it would work, but your spindle adapter has no shoulder. ( I wonder if it has "shoulder envy".... :rolleyes: ).

OK, try this, take the chuck and spindle adapter out of the drill press, open the jaws as wide as they will go on the chuck, clean up the inside of the chuck, there should be a hole in there, at the base of the chuck, that goes through to the spindle adapter. Open your vice just wide enough that the spindle adapter fits into the vice, without being gripped, so the top of the chuck is resting on the tops of the vice jaws. Put a drift punch in the hole, and strike it hard and quickly, don't be tentative, hit the sucker! :D

Put some thing on the floor, a cardboard box with a towel in it or something, maybe wood chips :thumb: to catch the spindle adapter as it comes out from the chuck.

Boom, you are done! :wave:

I seem to recall I did this and posted it once before..... :huh:

Simple eh :D
 
Yes Glenn, in this case, with the spindle adapter, you have, the wedges will not work :doh:

If you look at this pic.......
View attachment 21675
the spindle adapter, second from the left, on that type it would work, but your spindle adapter has no shoulder. ( I wonder if it has "shoulder envy".... :rolleyes: ).

OK, try this, take the chuck and spindle adapter out of the drill press, open the jaws as wide as they will go on the chuck, clean up the inside of the chuck, there should be a hole in there, at the base of the chuck, that goes through to the spindle adapter. Open your vice just wide enough that the spindle adapter fits into the vice, without being gripped, so the top of the chuck is resting on the tops of the vice jaws. Put a drift punch in the hole, and strike it hard and quickly, don't be tentative, hit the sucker! :D

Put some thing on the floor, a cardboard box with a towel in it or something, maybe wood chips :thumb: to catch the spindle adapter as it comes out from the chuck.

Boom, you are done! :wave:

I seem to recall I did this and posted it once before..... :huh:

Simple eh :D

Thanks for all the great stuff Stu. My chuck has no hole to drive a punch through. It has bee suggested that I drill one. I think at this point I will just buy another taper adapter (about $10) and go from there.
 
Back when I built weapon systems, if a tight fit on something was needed one part went in the freezer and one part got heat. Yours may have been built similar. If so, you're out of luck. A store by me sells keyless chucks for $60 - $90 and another $20 for the taper. They sometimes get in used Axminster ones with the taper for around $125. Let me know and I can send a photo and if you like pick one up for you.
 
Thanks for all the great stuff Stu. My chuck has no hole to drive a punch through. It has bee suggested that I drill one. I think at this point I will just buy another taper adapter (about $10) and go from there.

What the.... :huh:

How do they expect you to get it off :dunno:

Maybe they don't, I'd e-mail or phone Delta tech support and ask them.......... just for fun :D

I'd agree that for $10, buying another spindle adapter is the way to go! :wave:
 
What the.... :huh:

How do they expect you to get it off :dunno:

Delta says to "drill the soft center material of the chuck" till you hit the harder material of the adapter. Then use a punch rod to knock it loose. Amazing :rofl:. I ordered the new part. Everything EXCEPT the parts list calls it a taper adapter. The parts list call it an arbor. Should show up in a week or so. Good thing I'm in no hurry.
 
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