Hinge top for Woodmaster 725

David Cherry

Member
Messages
18
Location
Kettle Falls Wa
I have had a few people ask for more info on how I hinged my planer bonnet so I figured I would make a small writeup with a few better pics. Maybe the people at woodmaster should take a look at this and make their planers a bit more user friendly :D The top is just too heavy for 1 person to lift off without help all the time.



If memory serves me correctly you will need 2 new 2-1/2" bolts same size and thread as the black wing nuts that hold the bonnet on and 4 washers and 6 nuts.

1 set of hinges tall enough to do the job and nuts, bolts and washers for it (pics below)
1 piano hinge and required nuts and bolts.
For cutting I used an air tool with a 2.5" fiber wheel.


The pics below show the hinges I used and how.
mod0.jpg

mod2.jpg


The front will need to be cut out and hinged back on to be able to clear the table when swung open. Will also need to drill for the front bonnet wing nuts to clamp it back down when in use. I also cut the old front studs off so the bonnet clears better.
mod1.jpg


Here u can see where the 2-1/2" bolts go to bolt the front face back when in operation.
mod3.jpg


you will also need to notch the back in 2 places so the bonnet will clear the rear bonnet wing nuts.
mod4.jpg

mod5.jpg


and the end result should be something close to this
1.jpg

5.jpg


Makes it a lot easier to change blades, lube bearings and feed rollers.
 
Looks like maybe the hinges in your first pic are (were) actually hasps (like for a padlock) - thus the very long leg, and the slot across it.

Pretty nice arrangement. It ought to make access a lot easier.
 
Looks like maybe the hinges in your first pic are (were) actually hasps (like for a padlock) - thus the very long leg, and the slot across it...
I was thinking the same thing. I hadn't thought of using a hasp as a hinge, but I can see cases where it'd be handy. Like this one. :)
 
Dave, I sent a e-mail to wood master with a link to this topic. Maybe they will get the hint that we are not looking to bench press 60#+ to change the head.
 
Yes they are hasps. the only hinges I could find that were tall enough and still had enough mounting surface. I'll use anything if it does the job ;)

Not criticizing, David. Just making an observation. I'm like you. If it's the best (or sometimes just the most available) thing I can find, then I use it.
 
Dave, I sent a e-mail to wood master with a link to this topic. Maybe they will get the hint that we are not looking to bench press 60#+ to change the head.

Good idea. Its a great machine but it has some ease of access problems with that heavy hood to get out the way. At least with one of these you don't need a gym! Just bench press the cutter head and lift the hood and your workout is done :rofl:



Not criticizing, David. Just making an observation. I'm like you. If it's the best (or sometimes just the most available) thing I can find, then I use it.

No offense taken :) Its good to be resourceful when a problem arises. :thumb:
 
New WM725-3

Well, Ive done a bit more work on my planer. I got tired of using routers or running boards on edge to make t&g so I decided to make my 725 a 3 head planer. A simple table extension with 2 vertical planer shafts, each run off a 1HP 220 motor.

With lid on ready for action...
PICT0041.jpg

PICT0048.jpg

PICT0049.jpg



Heres the internals... The head on the right is stationary and the head on the left is movable.
PICT0042.jpg

PICT0043.jpg

PICT0044.jpg

PICT0046.jpg


Simple extensions for the existing "router attachment" and it bolts strait up. Only need a longer drive belt for the tail feed roller.
PICT0045.jpg

PICT0047.jpg


So far it works great and runs nice and smooth. Can run t&g true at top speed w/o any problems. A few minor adjustments need done but mostly cosmetic stuff. Only run around 1,000 feet so far so.. well see how it works out in the long run. :)
 
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