Drawer wood recomendations

Tom Niemi

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Good morning all, the weekend is here and it is time to get to the shop and make dust. As I have mentioned before I am in the middle of building kitchen cabinets and it is now time to begin drawers. My question is what wood to use? I have an abundance of red oak so is that ok to use? I have heard maple is also good except I do not have any maple. So any and all recomendations, ideas will be appreciated.

Thanks!

Tom
 
Tom,

I don't know of any reason not to use your red oak for the drawers. The choice of material for drawer boxes is more a personal preference for a lot of folks I'm sure. I've used solid maple for drawers in a few items and sandee play for others.

Another thing I've done is use 1/2" sandee ply with a 1/2" by 1/2" strip of hardwood (cherry in my case) on the top edge. The contrast in color gives a nice appearance and reduces the use of more expensive wood in an area not normally visible.
 
Jeff,
I'd just use the oak. Maybe mill it down to about half an inch thickness to keep the drawers from looking too 'clunky.'

Soft maple or poplar seem to be the 'standards,' but the oak should do just as well.

Doing dovetails? Hand cut, or machined?
 
Major Tom:)

i have used both maple and red oak and popular like jeff,, if were tohave my choice it would be toss up between ash and maple,, both work well and are light colored i dont have a supply of popular and to go buy it doesnt set well withme if have any other on hand...like they said use your own idea there is no rulles ,, my friend in missouri uses both ply and hardwood ,,depends on the quality of job the customer wants.. if you want some narrow ash i have some,,dont want to cut up your wide stuff:)
 
So far it sounds like the oak will be just fine. I am trying to use wood from my stash. I have a lot of oak, 1/3 is qtr sawn for the door frames and future furnature, 1/3 is rift cut, and 1/3 flat cut which is what I'm thinking of using for the drawers.
Bill, I like your idea of ply with solid edging but I got this oak at such a good price, it is cheeper than buying the ply and lesswork for me :p
Jim, I will mill to 1/2" and yes dovetail joints! I have always wanted them so it is a must. They will be machine cut. Hand cut :eek: me? no I am still to much of a rookie to try hand cut, maybe some day.

Thanks all for the responses :thumb:

Tom
 
i if you want some narrow ash i have some,,dont want to cut up your wide stuff:)

Larry, of the flat cut stuff, I have a couple hundred bf of 8" stock 5' long so I will not have to get into the wide stock. That will also be saved for future furnature also. As for the narrow ash, well sounds like a future road trip to see wht ya got :D.

Thanks Bud!

Tom
 
aliittle advice on your oak choices,,the rift cut stuff would be my choice,,straight grain for themost part and uniform,, the flat cut stock is and can be prettier for panels in the future, also the rift cut is good for face frames and stiles depending on your taste.. the shorts you have are a good use for drawers too as they are very seldon over 24" long or wide.. just some things to look at before you make your oak thin,, if its thick enought alred you could resaw and get two sides out of one plank.. i know where you canresaw it at:)
 
Larry, that makes sence. i will have to lay the rift cut and flat cut out beside each other, see which (for me anyways) looks better for panels and use the other for drawers. Also the thickness, because as you said resaw if thick enough and save some BF. If thick enough I will have to find a place because I do not have a band saw either and yes I so think I can come up with a place :D

Tom
 
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