Let's see your TS switch safety upgrades

Rennie Heuer

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I've been becoming more concerned with my inability to reach my TS switch and turn it off in an emergency. It's an older style two push-button on a Jet cabinet saw. Its currently mounted to the far left side of the saw just beneath the fence rail. Here's a very poor picture.
Switch.jpg

I've seen several picture of shops and saws that have a home made knee switch for turning the saw off. I'd really like to see some close ups and maybe some background on how you made them and what needs to be taken into consideration when designing one.

Thanks!
 
Hi Rennie

I have a simple paddle type switch that came with my saw. Dont think it is great but for the moment it is all i got. Stu posted a link to a wood turners site and looking through he had tips on how he has made his lathe more safe. Take a look at this page, whilst not a TS set up it does provide some food for thought.
http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk/tip11.htm

I too will be watching to see responses.
 
The switch on my unisaw has a green recessed button to start and a larger mushroom shaped red button (similar to the one Rob shows) to stop. I mounted it so that as I stand up to the saw to make a cut my left leg can push the off button. It is the factory equipped switch.

Just wondering Rennie, if you could move the switch over and add an extension to the button.
 
Here's my setup. The switch is the OEM version (magnetic starter), mounted just under the fence rail. The 'paddle is just some scrap wood I had lying around. It's attached via a couple small hinges, bolted to the underside of the fence rail. There's a hole that lines up with the Start button, and a small tab on the back that lines up with the Stop button. A quick bump with my knee will turn the saw off, without having to fumble around looking for the button.
 

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Oooh, scary. :) I'm literally in the process of figuring out how to put together a bracket and where to mount a new switch I was given from Rockler:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&filter=safety power tool switch

It isn't a magnetic set-up which would be better, but it will be a huge improvement to the toggle switch mounted on the side of the saw. I would agree the awkward fumbling is not a good thing.

Doesn't answer your question about a knee switch, but the coincidence is spooky.:D

Wes
 
Rennie,

Before:



After:



Got it from Grizzly. I could move it over a little more to the right, but I try to stand as much as possible to the left side of the blade. I only have to nudge it with my leg to shut down the saw.
 
So I should pay attention to this thread also, and see about fixing that.:lurk:

I too will be watching to see responses.
The more the merrier!:D
My TS came with a large "STOP" paddle. I added one to my router table and bandsaw as well.
Kinda what I had in mind, but without the cost of a new magnetic switch
Just wondering Rennie, if you could move the switch over and add an extension to the button.
Exactly what I'm thinking. I'm sure I've seen some postings of saws that have an added "knee" switch, made of wood of course:D, that allowed a quick turn off just by raising your knee.
 
Here's my setup. The switch is the OEM version (magnetic starter), mounted just under the fence rail. The 'paddle is just some scrap wood I had lying around. It's attached via a couple small hinges, bolted to the underside of the fence rail. There's a hole that lines up with the Start button, and a small tab on the back that lines up with the Stop button. A quick bump with my knee will turn the saw off, without having to fumble around looking for the button.
Jim - this is hat I was looking for - simple and effective. Let's see what others have done!
 
Oooh, scary. :) I'm literally in the process of figuring out how to put together a bracket and where to mount a new switch I was given from Rockler:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&filter=safety power tool switch

It isn't a magnetic set-up which would be better, but it will be a huge improvement to the toggle switch mounted on the side of the saw. I would agree the awkward fumbling is not a good thing.

Doesn't answer your question about a knee switch, but the coincidence is spooky.:D

Wes
Keep you eyes peeled - some good ideas coming this way!:thumb:
 
Rennie,

Before:



After:



Got it from Grizzly. I could move it over a little more to the right, but I try to stand as much as possible to the left side of the blade. I only have to nudge it with my leg to shut down the saw.
Hey Bill - in the right ball park. How much was that little bugger? I'm thinking I might need something larger as my aim, and my ability to raise my knee, aren't what the used to be.:rofl:
 
Take a look at their web site as I can't remember, but it was cheap. I think others offer the same thing. They have two versions 110 only or 110/220. Actually you don't raise your leg at all, you just lean your leg (or whatever) against it.
 
Here is mine just a board with a hole for the on switch the off button sticks out far enough for the board to shut the saw off. Next to the saw switch is a router speed control & then the router on off switch.
 

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Now you have done it. I never thought of that and it is in an awkward spot and not very accessible for turning off. I guess I will need to get a big paddle switch and move it out to where I can have access to it in a hurry.
 
Here's my setup. The switch is the OEM version (magnetic starter), mounted just under the fence rail. The 'paddle is just some scrap wood I had lying around. It's attached via a couple small hinges, bolted to the underside of the fence rail. There's a hole that lines up with the Start button, and a small tab on the back that lines up with the Stop button. A quick bump with my knee will turn the saw off, without having to fumble around looking for the button.
Hi Jim - you and Bart have a similar solution, but here's the problem (which I forgot to mention:eek:), my saw is a right tilt.
DSCN3461 (800 x 600).jpgDSCN3462 (800 x 600).jpg

So, long story short, a board in front would make the already-a-knuckle-buster bevel adjustment a real, um, pain. I can move the switch if I reroute some wires inside the cabinet, but getting it out of the way may place it in an equally inconvenient spot. Maybe I can do the hinged board, but have it only a few inches deep and run towards the center of the saw?:huh::dunno:
 
Hi Jim - you and Bart have a similar solution, but here's the problem (which I forgot to mention:eek:), my saw is a right tilt.
View attachment 27793View attachment 27794

:

Waaaaa So is mine. In 1940 Delta Unisaw didn't make a left tilt saw.:):D:rofl: I feel for you but I can't quite reach you.:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: I am sure you can make this work.:thumb::thumb::thumb: First step remove that peg board.:eek::doh::dunno::rofl:
 

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