Stupid, stupid, stupid

Rennie Heuer

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I've been working on my router table and today I routed out the hole for the lift. I looked at many tutorials, including Stu's (thanks), and finally went with a modified Stu version. Only one little problem. I forgot to take the corner radius of the plate into consideration. Hence, my corners are screwed up.
DSC_0011 (800 x 532).jpgDSC_0012 (800 x 532).jpg
Will this be an issue in the future? Will it catch stock? Clog with dust? Am I screwed and need to start over?
 
Fill each corner with a dab of bondo and sand smooth. Use a bold release (Pam or generic) on the lift corners. I think it will work; but not a double your money back guarantee.;)
 
Will this be an issue in the future? Will it catch stock? Clog with dust? Am I screwed and need to start over?

I did the same thing on my 1st table, I filled the corners with bondo and re-routed them. worked fine till I built a new table. Looking at your top pattern, you could do a little Faux painting to make it less noticeable.
 
Man, when I saw the subject line I thought it was something else. (I used the same headline when I got my hand caught in the drill press a couple years ago.) Glad to see it was something a little less bloody.

I also used Bondo to fix the bobbles in the inset for my router plate. :eek: But like Jeff said, it's only cosmetic. I don't think the gaps would effect the operation of the router table. (Or if they do, your wood's not flat enough anyway.) ;)
 
I saw the subject line and thought you were calling me :D

I agree with the Bondo idea, it will work fine, paint it the same color if you must but trust me, you will be the only one who notices it ;) :thumb:
 
...but trust me, you will be the only one who notices it ;) :thumb:

I think it should be our duty to point it out any time Rennie shows a picture of the router table in the future. You know, something like "Great job on the entertainment center Rennie. Such a shame about that router table in the background in your pics, though." :rofl:
 
I think it should be our duty to point it out any time Rennie shows a picture of the router table in the future. You know, something like "Great job on the entertainment center Rennie. Such a shame about that router table in the background in your pics, though." :rofl:

......or......

"Nice work Rennie, but man, could you not have matched the paint on the bondo around the corners of that router lift insert a little better....." :D:D :rofl::rofl:
 
Hi Rennie,

Only one little problem. I forgot to take the corner radius of the plate into consideration.

And the answer is: ______________________________________________
______________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________

Please fill in the blanks with something like:
- select a properly sized router bit that will match the radius of the corner of the lift insert
- drill the corners separately before beginning routing and DO NOT move the router deep into the corners
- OR . . .
 
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You guys are brutal. Helpful, but brutal.:rofl:

I think I'll go with the "it's just cosmetic" for now and see what happens. Bondo will always be an option.:rolleyes:
 
Blame it on the poor lighting in the shop. That excuse has always worked for me! Plus it got me the approval to get some new lighting!:rofl:
 
Rennie,
Just use my theory of woodworking...."Close enought for government work."
:rofl::rofl:

It looks good to me... wish I was that far along in my router table... 'course my biggest problem is... my router which was a cheap Sears light weight anyway.. burned up a few months back and I haven't replaced it yet.:D
 
Yeah, getting the corners to fit is always going to be a problem unless the lift manufacturer makes a template for the hole, like Woodpeckers makes for their lifts. Or make it a design feature by cutting some hardwood to fit into the corners and use a forstner bit that matches the radius and drill the corners. Be sure to make a jig for this and clamp it down before drilling. Remember the mountain that grew under my laminate on my router table? That penny is still there doing it's job. :thumb: Jim.
 
First off; bummer. BTDT, well not exactly "that" but certainly something similar. I have not worked with bondo but have used epoxy putty many times. I would tape a little wax paper around the corners of the lift and fill in the gaps and sand flush when cured (remove the taped on wax paper after you're done, of course).

Here's why I don't think it is just a cosmetic issue. Sooner or later a small chip will get in there and manage to lodge itself just proud of the surface. Best case, you get scratches on the surface you are running over it. :( Worst case, it is proud enough to actually divert the path of your material and cause you to route parts of the piece you had not intended. :eek:

A tube of epoxy putty is cheaper than almost any piece of wood you might ruin. JMHO :rolleyes:
 
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It seems from the replies that it is a common mistake, I have to remember it when I'll make mine.

Sorry about that Rennie, but as Vaughn mentioned I also thought it was something more serious, I'm glad it wasn't.
 
Rennie,
Just use my theory of woodworking...."Close enought for government work."
:rofl::rofl:

It looks good to me... wish I was that far along in my router table... 'course my biggest problem is... my router which was a cheap Sears light weight anyway.. burned up a few months back and I haven't replaced it yet.:D

well another by stander thinking rennie really goofed,,, glad he didnt and i am gonna go with close enough for gov , work wont fly with rennie.. and fill the voids with a epoxy or bondo..your gonna get burnt sometime with a chip and your gonna look back behind you and watch that foot place itself in a uncomfortable place.. i know you well enough rennie that you wont be satisfied staring at the unfilled hole..
 
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