Bathroom Cabinet - Medicine Chest Replacement

glenn bradley

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LOML remodeled her bathroom. It looks great but, she's been waiting on 'someone' to run a separate switch for the fan and to come up with something to fill the hole where the medicine chest used to be. The hole-filler is to be a little display area for a couple of her decorative items. With my last few larger projects finally done, its her turn. I am to use a finish that will complement the existing vanity and mirror so, contrary to my usual, I will stain this quite dark. Some time spent in the mad-scientist-lab of color mixing (commonly known as my outfeed table with a tarp tossed over it) I came up with a color she likes. The base wood will be some mahogany:

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The cabinet sides will be 1/2" with 3/8" shelf pieces. I find that with thinner stock, a sliding dovetail make a quick and strong joint without having to resort to a pinner. To make things easier on the small DT bit, I run a saw kerf along the line before routing. A backer-block makes for a clean exit.

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The face framing will be as shown in the incomplete SU drawing and echos the mirror frame in style. Feels good to be working on something that I might actually finish over a weekend :). Only the DT joint at the "shelf/support" joint will be visible when complete.

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I'd been looking for an excuse to use these shims I got, some how, way back when. I used to just use tape and that still works fine but, I ended up with these so . . . The appropriate shim or shims just drop between the fence and fence-face on the outfeed side to make up the difference in plane. Just like jointing on the router table, it makes up for the little hump shown. I use the thick face boards to allow me to bury the larger bit.

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I should get points towards supplies every time I mention a Grr-Ripper :D. Here's a good time to keep your pinkies away from the cutter.I rip off the edges and end up with some molding stock. Time for an early lunch break. :thumb:

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glenn, in your plywood stain sample, see the blotchyness thats what i was referring to in the glue saturation of the ply glue.. it shows up where there puddles were..
 
glenn, in your plywood stain sample, see the blotchyness thats what i was referring to in the glue saturation of the ply glue.. it shows up where there puddles were..

Yes, a good reason to avoid ply ;). I am planning a lapped board back but, was temped by the ease of the ply. As you noticed, the results are poor so it is back to a lapped back although that will tag an extra shop day (read probably pushed into next weekend) onto this piece. LOML thinks the ply is OK but, I just can't do it :dunno::rolleyes:.
 
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It kills me to cover this mahogany with a dark stain but, the color is complimentary to the already installed units. I think the lap-panel back will be worth the time and effort; I really didn't care for the look of the ply.

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glenn, if you dont mind me asking, what are you guys paying for real mahogany out there on the west coast?
(its going for close to 9 a bf out here now, over 10 if the quantity is only a board or two)
 
glenn, if you dont mind me asking, what are you guys paying for real mahogany out there on the west coast?
(its going for close to 9 a bf out here now, over 10 if the quantity is only a board or two)

It has jumped to eight dollars and change at my local yard. Up almost $2/bf from the last time I bought it several months ago. This is enough of a difference that I will just pick it up at the yard in San Marcos when I am down visiting dad. At $2 more per bf it doesn't take long to pay for the gas difference between taking my car to dad's or taking the truck and making a haul ;-)
 
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All done and ready for install. It will hold some of LOML "objects-duh-art" but I just set some stuff in there to give you the idea.

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