What kind of finish to use?

Tom Baugues

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Lafayette, Indiana
I'm working on building my first real piece of furniture. It's just a small cabinet (like an end table) with a couple of small doors in front. It will sit in my TV room between to chairs. I'm making it out of pine. The wood is very soft and I want to put a finish on it that will make it much harder. I'm assuming I will stain it first then apply some kind of clear finish. I do not want a "glossy" finish but I do want it to look nice. What should I use? Is a satin polyurethane tough enough? Should I use a sealer of some kind first? Before or after the stain?
I'll take a few photos as I go here. I got my panels glued up ok with some help here and they turned out nice. Now I just need to get it all put together and finished.

Thanks guys/gals,
Tom
 
Finish

A water-based polyurethane would give you the hard finish you are looking for. In my home shop I use Wood Kote's "Clear & Clean" which is a clear water-based polyurethane. They also have a version "Clear & Clean II" which is a catalyzed version giving an even harder finish. What kind of stain are you planing on using as well as what color?

Include some pics also when you finish each step if its not to much trouble.

Cheers
Harry
 
The only stain I have ever used is Minwax. I do not want a dark walnut type color but I don't want the "yellow" pine color either....so something in the middle. I'm taking a few photos tonight as I piece it together so hopefully tomorrow I can post some photos. I probably will not get around to staining and finishing until next week so I have a few days to decide what to use.

Tom
 
Tom,
Instead of a Stain think about using a Dye. In my restoration business I use both Transfast and Transtint dyes. The nice thing about a dye is you can control the color. If you want it darker, add more pigment, if you want it lighter add more water/Alchy. They are easy to use and i find I have less problems with bloches.
You can seal the pickes with dewaxed shellac then use a wipe on poly as a top coat. I tend to use the satin finish and several coats can be applied in a few hours.
 
Ok..here is a quick photo I took tonight after putting the sides together. It will actually be set in between two chairs in our TV room. It still needs the solid top and the front put on. The front will have two doors on the lower section, each door will be trimmed with pine then have a wainscot panel section inset in the center of it. The upper section will also be trimmed in pine but be solid with a wainscot panel inset in it as well. The cutouts in the sides are for access to small wicker baskets that will slide in and out from each side to allow items to be stored but easy access to them.

I'm thinking of using Minwax stain and Minwax satin Poly as a topcoat.

Tom
 

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The basket idea is very clever. I like that.

But FWIW, grain is usually oriented up and down, rather than horizontally. With it sitting between two chairs, the grain orientation may not be so noticeable. It is one of the things you learn when beginning. Soon you will be building with hardwoods that cost more and you will do it with more confidence. Good beginning, Tom. You'll get a lot of good use out of this piece.
 
Don't feel like a dope, Tom. Feel like you learned something new today. Big difference! :thumb:
I agree with Carol we all are learning. Thats what this forum is all about. I been making sawdust since I was 7,55 years later I'm still asking questions and make mistakes. Heck I been stuck for two days trying to get 2 lousey drawer pulls to looks right and I'm still not there. Time to knock off for the day and get a fresh start in the morning.
 
Oh, I'll be fine. I do appreciate the advise that I have received on here and I do not take anything personal. I actually had thought about that in the beginning but for some reason turned it the way I did. I have enjoyed making this so far. I will be looking for other projects in the near future.
Oh yeah....I'm going to build a "Senior 20 organ".....cant wait!

Tom
 
Thanks Jim, I was not able to work on it this weekend due to helping my brother move and working. I hope to get back at it this week and get the rest of it put together. I will have more photos just before I stain it.

Tom
 
Well, I have most all of it put together now. The top still has to be fitted to the box but I stained the inside first because I would not be able to access the inside if I attached it. There is still a trim piece to go around the bottom and of course the knobs and hinges on the doors. Some of the stain has leaked through a few cracks in this photo but you still get the idea of what I'm doing. Hope to finish fitting top and staining this weekend.

Have I read correctly that I should allow the stain to "gas" for a week or so before applying a coat of Poly finish?

Thanks,
Tom
 

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Although it's not necessary, I would but I also finish the inside of drawers. Sam Maloof felt the the bottoms deserved the same finish as the rest of the piece.

Well, I'm in no position to disagree with you or Sam! So I will finish the bottom the same.

Thanks for your opinion and advise Don.

Tom
 
Well, I'm in no position to disagree with you or Sam! So I will finish the bottom the same.

Thanks for your opinion and advise Don.

Tom

Tom,
If you're going to finish the drawers - inside or out (except the face) - DO NOT use poly. The fumes will be in there just shy of forever, and will permeate whatever you store in the drawers.

Use shellac instead. The odor will be gone as soon as the alcohol flashes off.
 
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