Will this work?

Kenny Wright

Member
Messages
33
Location
Oklahoma
Hello everybody. I've got a question for ya, as usual. Can I buff on a coat of wax over poly? I'm havin a heck of a time gettin the poly to come out like I want it and thought this might work. What do ya'll think? Thanks in advance.
 
Kenny, you can put wax on poly, but good wax won't fix bad poly. Wax will protect a good finish, but not do much to improve a bad one. You mention that the poly isn't coming out the way you want. What are you seeing (or not seeing) that you want to fix?
 
Hey Vaughn. Well really the problem is dust. the finish looks good exept a few dust particles. I have to keep using 00 steel wool just to knock down the little bumps then add another coat of poly. I'm at three coats now and I'm afraid if i keep goin the finish will end up lookin plastic. Do you think the wax will cover the light marks from the steel wool?
 
Kenney,
Is the poly an oil based or watyer based. I don't use steel wool on anything water based, as a matter of fact I don't use steel wool at all anymore. If it's water based the particles left from the steel wool will blacken the finish. Get some of the 3-M grey sanding sponges from you local hardware store, they work much better and they are re-usable
 
It's oil based. after I use the steel wool I've been wiping the top down with a tack cloth. the sanding sponge sounds interesting though. Are the sponges classified by grit or what?
 
It's oil based. after I use the steel wool I've been wiping the top down with a tack cloth. the sanding sponge sounds interesting though. Are the sponges classified by grit or what?
Yup, they come in medium, fine, super fine and ultra fine.
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Kenny, I'm not sure about sanding sponges Don was mentioning, but there are "non-woven abrasive pads" (like a Scotch-Brite) available in various "grits". The green ones like those used for scrubbing post are fairly coarse. There's a green one, a maroon one that's a bit finer, gray that's finer still, and the white ones are the finest...about the same as 0000 steel wool. I use the white ones to remove the dust nibs from my turned pieces, but then I buff with various compounds to remove the fine scratches before I apply the wax. If I don't, the wax will hide the scratches for a short time, but eventually they'll reappear.

Here is one source for the abrasive pads:

http://www.ptreeusa.com/nonwoven.htm

If you're trying for a high gloss finish, I'd suggest knocking off the dust nibs with a gray or white pad, then using automotive rubbing compound, then polishing compound, then wax. It'll shine like a new car. :thumb:

That's what I used on this pool cue case:

Cue Case 5 800 LR.jpg
 
Vaughn, I dont know what just happened but when I clicked on the turtle wax links my computer went nuts . 50,000 turtle wax pop ups kept on commin from amazon. The wife got it stopped, but what the...
 
I'm not sure it's the "correct" way of doing it, but I always just put the wax coat on using 0000 steel wool as the applicator pad and when I buffed I had excellent results. Couple coats of poly with steel wool in between coats, then wax with steel wool pad, then buff and. I do like the 3m pads better but I happen to have a big bag of 0000 sitting around so I use it too.
 
Vaughn, I dont know what just happened but when I clicked on the turtle wax links my computer went nuts . 50,000 turtle wax pop ups kept on commin from amazon. The wife got it stopped, but what the...

Wow, I have no idea what made that happen. It shows up normally on my computer.

Anyone else getting strange popups from those links? :huh:
 
Do you have buffing wheels (two at least) I use rouge and white diamond. get the rpms up on your drill press or lathe. Buff with the red then clean it with alcohol so you don't contaminate the diamond wheel with rouge, then charge (rub the white still on the wheel) and if the poly is real dry buff the snot out of it. If it still looks not so good I wet sand it with 400 /800 between buff's. if all fails you might need a few more coats of poly LET DRY!

Also look to see if it's wipe on poly.

Bill
 
For what its worth I have been told to never use steelwool with polly. The fibers from the steelwool are to small and get stuck in the polly. Between coats you should be doing with 220. Sanding finer and your not getting the proper etching on the last coat for the next coat to stick.:thumb:
 
Sounds to me like a need for a quick rub down with either pumice & oil for a semigloss finish or Rottenstone & Oil for a gloss. The rub down first with pumice, will remove all the dust nibs, then for a lasting shine, rub with Rottenstone & Oil to enhance the gloss. Not a lot of work and well worth the results. Before you begin, make sure you have ample coats of hard poly (not just dry poly, takes several good drying days before hard.
 
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