Triton vs. Freud - $189 vs. $129

Rennie Heuer

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Nearing the top of my 'to-do' list is building a router table. So, I'm starting to give a lot of thought to the router that will live in it.

Some time back Chris Mire wrote about his new tools...

Two Triton 2-1/4hp router with all the accessories. these will become my dedicated rail and stile routers when i get my new shop set up...that way i only have to adjust them when i sharpen the bits.
i think just about everyone knows by now how great the Triton routers are after some of the reviews they have gotten. i look forward to putting them through their paces....not to mention never climbing under a router table to adjust bit height ever again

a much happier woodworker,
Chris
Chris,

Chris - Any update on those routers? Woodcraft has them on sale for $189, free freight, with the $100 accessory pack free.
Are you still convinced they are as good as people say?

Note to Frank Pellow - I think I read that you have one of these also - any reports?

Vaughn - didn't I read in a post once that you had one of these?

:dunno: or :dunno:

Does anyone have something to say about the Freud 3 1/4 HP router (FT2200E) on sale for $129? Anyone use this in a table? How does it compare to the Triton?
 
My dad has the Triton and I got to play with it a bit. The power switch on both are a bit gimpy. I mean they are 'different', not that they are low quality. My dad bought the Freud and returned it as it was ergonomically a bit odd and used a cam style motor lock that always seemed to jog the bit setting when applied. The Triton is 'different' as well being a euro-style design as far as controls go.

There are many folks here who like the Freud; I just happen to prefer the Triton and would recommend it highly. I am struggling as to whether or not to pick one up myself as they are on sale. Plates for the Triton are scarce and I had a 1/4" Rockler drilled for my dad at the local machine shop. You could easily do this yourself with a decent DP.

See this review for a long term users viewpoint: http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/tritonrouter2.htm
 
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I normally try not to chime in here where I have no specific knowledge of the tools being discussed. However, I have learned through a lot of expensive education (money wasted) that there are simply some tools that should be in every serious woodworkers invantory.

I have been using Porter Cable for years now, and I really don't know if there is a heavier duty long lasting tool on the market.

When I built my router table, I installed a 3 1/4 HP Variable Speed Plunge router in the removable router plate to use as the primary router in that location. It has performed like a champ for over 13 years. I also at the same time had a Incra router fence system, one of the early ones. I happened to be at the Woodworkers show down at middle Amana that summer, and Woodpeckers was demoing the new (then) Twin Linear, it turned out to be an absolutely phenominal fence system, with an integrated dust collection port built in.

Just my .02
 
I normally try not to chime in here where I have no specific knowledge of the tools being discussed.

Tom, with that kind of experience to share I think you should always chime in. I, like many, will take actual user input over magazine reviews any day. Thanks for posting.
 
Hi Rennie - I don't know much about the Triton, but I hear good things.

The FT2200E is basically a red FT2000E...which is decent 15 amp plunge router with few above table features and a small throat opening. While it's a good value for the money, I much prefer my FT1700 to my FT2000 in the table...I even prefer overall by a lesser margin to my MW5625 b/c the above table features on the 1700 are so nice. I'd check the FT3000 if I were shopping now. If your use will be very heavy, the MW5625 is plenty stout.
 
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Hi Rennie - I don't know much about the Triton, but I hear good things.

The FT2200E is basically a red FT2000E...which is decent 15 amp plunge router with few above table features and a small throat opening. While it's a good value for the money, I much prefer my FT1700 to my FT2000 in the table...I even prefer overall by a lesser margin to my MW5625 b/c the above table features on the 1700 are so nice. I'd check the FT3000 if I were shopping now. If your use will be very heavy, the MW5625 is plenty stout.
For me, right now, price is a major consideration. Also, I have a 690 I like for hand held work, so the new router will be 99.9% table bound. I like the ability to fine tune from above the table without having to sink a couple of hundreds of bucks into a router lift - that's what's attracting me to the Triton.
 
Rennie,

That's exactly why I would look seriously at the triton. You actually need three things to get past the 'hole in a piece of plywood" router table: A good plate, a decent fence, and a way to adjust the bit from above the table. You're going to want a really good fence fairly quickly (like many, I have an incra, and it's worth its weight in platinum). You can get a decent phenolic plate for 30-40 bucks (some people complain about those... I know I did ;). With the triton, you may be able to save the cost of the lift (which, in my case, cost more than the router itself).

Still, if money's tight, try to learn from my mistakes and plan wisely... ;) I had no idea how much a router table would cost: a couple hundred for the router, but 300 for the lift, half of 400 for the fence (mine doubles as my table saw fence), an unseemly amount for bits, safety gear, incremental cost for dust collection. The people who say "by the time you add it up, you could have a decent shaper" are right. The only rational rationale is that with a router table, the cost can be incremental... :doh:

Good luck!

Thanks,

Bill
 
The people who say "by the time you add it up, you could have a decent shaper" are right. The only rational rationale is that with a router table, the cost can be incremental... :doh:
Bill
I purchased the plate early this year when I caught it on sale. I've enough wood sitting around that the cabinet should cost very little. As for the fence, I haven't made up my mind which way to go on that yet. I like the Incra, but it's a bunch of bucks. :eek: There are some good plans for home made fences floating around.
 
INCRA TWIN LINEAR

Rennie, I agree that the Incra Twin Linear is expensive. What really sets it apart from most of the rest is the infinite repeatability, and micrometer adjustment in two locations.

I am not a metal worker, but it almost gives you a machinist accuracy especially if you want a really fine finished, acurately executed project.

When I bought mine it was around $460, I don't know what they cost now, when I justify this kind of purchase to myself and (SWMBO), I always say: after consulting with her, "Yes, Dear." and then go ahead and get it. Because it is only an additional $15 per year over the next 10 or 20 years.

That's just chicken feed, only .045 cents per day to have the very best.

Works most of the time too.....:D:D:D:thumb:
 
I am not a metal worker, but it almost gives you a machinist accuracy especially if you want a really fine finished, acurately executed project.

When I bought mine it was around $460,

I suppose that it depends on how you work and what you build that determines what kind of fence that you need. I use a shop built fence that has dust collection that does everything that I need it to and cost me a couple of bucks for bolts, washers and wing nuts plus some left over wood from other projects. I would never spend five hundered bucks for a fence without a REALLY good reason. Maybe I do not have a "really fine finished, accurately executed project" according to someone else but the finish seems fine to me on what I have done.

If you look at Pat Warner's fences they are shop built and he seems to do excellent work. Different strokes for different folks I suppose.

http://www.patwarner.com/
 
rennie,

unfortunately i have not had a chance to use the triton's much, just a couple of hand held cuts.

i am kinda waiting to finish my shop before i build the tables and all, because it will just be one more thing to move from dad's shop to mine.

i will say that i love the plunge options, whether it's traditional plunging by pushing the router up and down or by the dial-a-plunge method by turning the knob. i am very much looking forward to the above table adjustment. my dad's PC 3-1/4hp model does not have that option, it's an older model, probably 10-12 years old. it is a workhorse however.

sorry i couldn't be more help.
 
I suppose that it depends on how you work and what you build that determines what kind of fence that you need. I use a shop built fence that has dust collection that does everything that I need it to and cost me a couple of bucks for bolts, washers and wing nuts plus some left over wood from other projects. I would never spend five hundered bucks for a fence without a REALLY good reason. Maybe I do not have a "really fine finished, accurately executed project" according to someone else but the finish seems fine to me on what I have done.

If you look at Pat Warner's fences they are shop built and he seems to do excellent work. Different strokes for different folks I suppose.

http://www.patwarner.com/
I don't think having a $500 fence necessarily makes the finished product better, but I do believe it does make getting to that point easier. Folks were creating "really fine finished, accurately executed" projects long before things like Incra fences came around, and will continue to do so. I don't think Tom was implying that projects made without an Incra are substandard, just perhaps not as easily or quickly executed. That said, for me, the cost of the Incra fence on my table saw/router table has been worth it to me. (My actual cost was less than $500, since I won part of the system in a drawing.)
 
My first reason for buying the Incra system fences was the fancy double dovetails, of which I have yet to make any. I was not putting any thing down. Just talking about a really great system.

This discussion at this point, is precisely why I try and not get involved, because some one invariably feels slighted and that was never my intention. Now where's the "beating a dead horse" icon when I need it........
 
That is OK Tom. I was just trying to make the point that if you do not have that amount of money for a commerical fence or do not elect to spend that much it is still possible to do good work with a basic fence or a well designed shop built fence.
 
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A 'downside' of the Triton's (very sensible) safety interlock between the power switch and the "get the bit above the table" is that you have to be able to easily reach the switch in order to change the bit; you can't raise the bit fully without turning off at the switch. This makes it a teensy bit more complicated to operate.
 
When I bought mine it was around $460.... Because it is only an additional $15 per year over the next 10 or 20 years.

That's just chicken feed, only .045 cents per day to have the very best.
Ouch - that's too much change for me - and, just for the record, there's a lot of things I could justify purchasing based on the pennies per day argument, but it still adds up to out of pocket money that I won't have for other things that might be more 'needed' than 'wanted'. (Or, maybe, I'm just really cheap! :rofl:) Also, that argument makes me think of the days I sold Kirby Vacuums - I'd rather not relive those days! :eek::rofl:

I use a shop built fence that has dust collection that does everything that I need it to and cost me a couple of bucks for bolts, washers and wing nuts plus some left over wood from other projects.
If you look at Pat Warner's fences they are shop built and he seems to do excellent work. Different strokes for different folks I suppose.

http://www.patwarner.com/
Allen - this is the course I was considering - thanks for the link!:thumb:

rennie,

unfortunately i have not had a chance to use the triton's much, just a couple of hand held cuts.

sorry i couldn't be more help.
Chris - no problem! Please keep us informed of the progress on the shop. If all goes well we can compare Triton notes in a year or so.:D

I don't think having a $500 fence necessarily makes the finished product better, but I do believe it does make getting to that point easier. Folks were creating "really fine finished, accurately executed" projects long before things like Incra fences came around, and will continue to do so. I don't think Tom was implying that projects made without an Incra are substandard, just perhaps not as easily or quickly executed.
Vaughn - Your diplomacy stands as a prime example of why we are here at FWW rather than just about anyplace else. Well done! :thumb:

My first reason for buying the Incra system fences was the fancy double dovetails, of which I have yet to make any. I was not putting any thing down. Just talking about a really great system.

You know, a long time ago I watched a demo at a WW show and thought it would be sooooo cooool to turn out joints like that. Chances are I would be in the same boat as you if I had made the purchase then - fancy double dovetails would still be on my 'wanna do' list! Funny how that works out.

This discussion at this point, is precisely why I try and not get involved, because some one invariably feels slighted and that was never my intention. Now where's the "beating a dead horse" icon when I need it........
This one?
beatdeadhorse5.gif

That is OK Tom. I was just trying to make the point that if you do not have that amount of money for a commercial fence or do not elect to spend that much it is still possible to do good work with a basic fence or a well designed shop built fence.
Gracious to a fault - a gentleman. Way to go Allen!:thumb:

A 'downside' of the Triton's (very sensible) safety interlock between the power switch and the "get the bit above the table" is that you have to be able to easily reach the switch in order to change the bit; you can't raise the bit fully without turning off at the switch. This makes it a teensy bit more complicated to operate.
I've read a few reviews and consumer comments and this is one point that comes up fairly often. Probably more a nuisance than anything else. And likely a small price to pay for not having to buy a lift mechanism.:D
 
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I don't think having a $500 fence necessarily makes the finished product better, but I do believe it does make getting to that point easier.

I've gotten by with a rockler fence and a shop made micro-adjuster (very seldom required). I have not made dovetails and other fancy joinery on the RT and if I head that direction the fence will quickly show its weakness. If you use other methods for your more intricate joinery, a more basic fence will do just about anything IME.
 
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