BLO, Tung oil, Danish Oil question.

can anyone give me a short description about the type of finish each one gives and when use on or the other or it is only a matter of preference?

Thanks

Toni,

I haven't used "real" tung oil but, based on it's qualities, I get similar results using BLO and Naphtha in a 1/1 ratio. If I want a "Danish oil", I make it using BLO/Naphtha/Polyurethane in about a 1/1/1 ratio. Most of the products on the market with "Tung" in the name contain NO tung oil. While one can buy real tung oil, it's quite costly and I choose to use other combinations to accomplish the same result.

A great resource for definitions of different finishes is this page on Jeff Jewitt's website.

I've used the BLO/Naphtha combo on most furniture I've done, followed by shellac as a sealer/barrier coat. Whether I've topcoated with polyurethane, lacquer, WB lacquer or more shellac, it's hard to tell the difference visually.

Like Bill said real tung oil is expensive (I guess it take a lot of tonques to get enough to fill up a can...) and many of the products out there that says "Tung Oil Finish" actually don't have any tung oil in them.
I use BLO mixed with mineral spirits 1/1 so it will dry quicker. It realy pops the grain. my favorite finish is wipe on poly.

Pure tung oil rubs easily into the wood. For gunstocks, where I have used it, rubbing with the bare hand produces the best results because of the heat build up. It does have a darkening effect. It is very durable and moisture resistant. Generally low gloss but I have never attempted to achieve a glossy finish since that was not the effect I wanted. In fact, I went over my work with OOOO steel wood to degloss.
I'll agree with others, read labels carefully. The use of the term 'tung oil' has been corrupted. Some are only partially tung, others may not have any tung in them.
But pure tung is good stuff, IMHO.

BLO, Danish Oil, Tung Oil

Hello Fellow Woodworkers,

BLO-Tung oil-Danish Oil. All are called "penetrating oil". They are applied to bare wood, allowed to penetrate, then all surface oil is wiped off. This process is repeated as often as required. A penetrating oil finish is easy to repair-just add more oil, and rub it off with a rag.
Do Not Put these Oily Rags In a Pile. They can absolutely catch on fire.

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BLO, (boiled linseed oil); is not really boiled at all, it is just linseed oil with metalic driers added which assist the oxidation process (drying).
BLO tends to stay fairly soft even after it is dry. It is only nominally resistant to moisture.
In the course of time, the finish will become increasingly dark (often very dark).

Tung Oil, is oil extracted from the fruit of the china nut tree.
In it's pure form, it is fairly colorless, and does not darken much over time.
Unfortunately, in it's unadulterated pure form, tung oil is a choice food for mold.

Danish Oil is a mix of solvents, oils, resins, driers, and whatever the manufacturer decides to put in it.

I recommend a tung oil based product (but not a pure oil).
It should be quite impervious to water staining.

I have seen Pure Tung Oil used on exterior wooden doors.
The cedar was fluffy with black mold after the first few rains.
Not a memory soon forgot.


-JL

Penetrating Oil / Sam Maloof's Recipe

This is a great recipe for a penetrating oil. It has good build, so doesn't require so many coats.

Maloof's Recipe:

-1/3 turpentine
-1/3 linseed oil
-1/3 varnish

What you get is a quality dainish oil type product.

Oh Yeah, there's more.

using a peice of wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub in the oil briskly
-Try 220 grit.

Well, what you get is a slurry of the oil+sanding dust.
It really packs those pores quick.

-JL

100 % tong oil finish will get gloss the more coats as with BLO

Here are some pic's,

You tell me which is the

1 Lacquer finish [satin]
2 100% tong oil finish
3 1/1 tong oil thinner
4 french polish

Hey! How did you get aholt of my rifle to take a picture of it?

I use the Maloof in a can tung/Boiled linseed/poly mix from Rockler, see my recent shots of the kitchen island for how much it pops the grain on wood.

Don Baer said:

...and any of the products out there that says "Tung Oil Finish" actually don't have any tung oil in them...

Click to expand...

I could be mistaken, but as I understand it, some of them do have a bit of tung oil in the blend.

I only use 100% Hopes tong oil.

Frank, I think you left it on the fireing line LOL
Curly 42" is a 54 , swamp withe a Get's and silar lock and a lot of hours
Cherry is a 50, 46" vinger steel wool acid treated, Get's also and Silar. Both have been hand rubbed with Hopes the Curly has about 20 more coats.

Dave Hawksford said:

I only use 100% Hopes tong oil.

Frank, I think you left it on the fireing line LOL
Curly 42" is a 54 , swamp withe a Get's and silar lock and a lot of hours
Cherry is a 50, 46" vinger steel wool acid treated, Get's also and Silar. Both have been hand rubbed with Hopes the Curly has about 20 more coats.

Click to expand...

Mine is a 42" .45 swamp Paris barrel, curley maple, modified Siler lock. Built in the transitional Rev. period style. It was built by Ray Miller of Kingsville, MO. I have no idea what the finish is.
Below is Ray and myself meeting up for the first time in 30+ years after he built it.

I like the transition style. Lets see a pic of the rifle he built.

1862 Towers .58 cal. Originally carried during the war between the states. I bought it from a gun shop in East Hadam Connecticut. I paid $100 for it and yes I have fired it.

Dave Hawksford said:

I like the transition style. Lets see a pic of the rifle he built.

Click to expand...

Mine is it.

Looks like he used Ditchburn's Alcohol stain out of Pa. Most builders use his stain. I meet the man years ago. His process Is really 2nd to none.

Dave Hawksford said:

Looks like he used Ditchburn's Alcohol stain out of Pa. Most builders use his stain. I meet the man years ago. His process Is really 2nd to none.

Click to expand...

I've never heard of Ditchburn's stain. I am mostly familiar with the home brewed acid stains. And, those are what I have worked with. What I like about them is that one can dilute the stain and with repeated applications bring the dark figure up to the point you want it without fear of overdoing things. The one 'sorta' commercial acid stain I'm familiar with is called Magic Maple Stain and is made by Ken Thompson.
The forgiving nature of the acid stains suits less talented folks, like yours truly.
We have completely hijacked this thread haven't we?
While we are at it, I'll post a picture of my Jaeger later.

Yes we have , sorry all.

Then if you ask Ken about Ditchburn he will probably know of him.

Just finished up a small doe and have meat in the freezer.