mlcs raised panel bit set poor fit

Keith Thomas

Member
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73
Location
florida
just got a mlcs complete cabinet bit ser. I'm pretty disappointed so far. the fit of the rail and stile are very poor.
it comes with ships / washers to tighten the fit but the ogee profiles on the 2 pieces do not seem to match perfectly. But i don't have anything else tight now. does anyone know how to use the shims? I can not find instructions on line .
 
I've got three or four of the MLCS door sets, and haven't had any problems with any of them. The shims go between the two cutters in each bit. Start with one bit with no shims and make a test piece. Make a cut with the other (unshimmed) bit and then decide which one (if either) needs shimmed. If the tongue on the panel bit is too low to fit into the groove in the stile piece, then add shims to stile bit. If the tongue is too high, then add shims to the panel bit. It'll likely require several test pieces to get a good fit. When you finally get a good fit, keep the test pieces to use as setup blocks for next time.
 
I've got three or four of the MLCS door sets, and haven't had any problems with any of them. The shims go between the two cutters in each bit. Start with one bit with no shims and make a test piece. Make a cut with the other (unshimmed) bit and then decide which one (if either) needs shimmed. If the tongue on the panel bit is too low to fit into the groove in the stile piece, then add shims to stile bit. If the tongue is too high, then add shims to the panel bit. It'll likely require several test pieces to get a good fit. When you finally get a good fit, keep the test pieces to use as setup blocks for next time.
hanks for the reply. here is my current situation. I have re shimmed them 4 times now. this is the best result thus far. originally they were so out of wack that no 2 surfaces touched at least now the the tung(?) or what I call the tenon is tight but I can't get the profile tight.
 

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You've got a bad bit set. Send it back and exchange for a new one. If you're soured on MLCS (no reason to be, though) consider Freud, Infinity, or CMS.

BTW, you might want to send your photos of the bad fit to MLCS's Customer Service Dept. They'll definitely reinforce your claim.
 
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I've got three or four of the MLCS door sets, and haven't had any problems with any of them. ...
Same here. I have a lot of MLCS bits, including raised panel sets and rail and stile sets. No problem with any of them.

... BTW, you might want to send your photos of the bad fit to MLCS's Customer Service Dept. They'll definitely reinforce your claim.
Ditto. If they see how you have configured the set, they can set you straight.
 
I don't think of MCLS as the highest quality, but, I find them to be pretty good. I don't have any door sets from them.

I do have a full set of door bits from Freud. They work very well out of the box. I've made tons of doors with no problem at all. I have also added to my Freud Door collection. I do like Freud bits.
 
figures. I spent 2 hours playing around with those things and thought I was the problem. I went and picked up a set of bosh precision pro rail and stile bits from lowes.
 
figures. I spent 2 hours playing around with those things and thought I was the problem. I went and picked up a set of bosh precision pro rail and stile bits from lowes.
MLCS has always been very good at replacing items for me. Like other discount brands, we put up with a bit of futzing around in order to save some cash.
 
the Bosch did better but I think in what ever country they re made, in their native language precision means "ok". Or am I just being to fussy? I remember making joints on this same table that were pretty tight but I don't have this bits any more. I got the Bosch because I have time to make the panel's now and need buts now.
 

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Just for reference, this is a temporary door I made out of scrap pine for a router table with a cheap Woodcraft set.
rail and stile-1.jpg
This is from the cheesy commercial cabinets in my soon to be gutted guest bath.
rail and stile-2.jpg
Neither of these were made with any great care but, there are ways to guide the material that can assure greater success. We may need to look at how you are performing the operation, The stile cut is pretty normal but, feather boards can increase the accuracy of the profile. The rails should be run on a coping sled or some form of perpendicular support jig, block, or whatever.

Ready to clamp.jpg . RT Push Block 2.JPG

It looks like you are losing definition at the "corners" . . . the direction changes or sharp elements of the profile. This is much better than the obviously defective set but we are still not getting the clean tight fit you are after. How are you holding the rail during the cut?
 
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