Robert Horky
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WOW, looking great.
Sideboard for the Dining Room
- Thread starter glenn bradley
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That's looking awesome, Glenn. 
glenn bradley
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These are the handle blanks.
Ripping some ebony for the inserts.
The top being glued up.
Ripping some ebony for the inserts.
The top being glued up.
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- ABQ NM
I hope that's enough clamps, lol.
glenn bradley
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Fitting the breadboards
I drill stopped holes from the bottom for dowels.
These holes go through the bottom mortise cheek, through the tongue and into the top mortise cheek about 1/8".
The middle and rear holes get turned into slots to allow for movement.
The front 3" of the tongue gets glue and a glued in dowel.
The middle and rear dowels get glued to the underside mortise cheek and float in the tongue.
I drill stopped holes from the bottom for dowels.
These holes go through the bottom mortise cheek, through the tongue and into the top mortise cheek about 1/8".
The middle and rear holes get turned into slots to allow for movement.
The front 3" of the tongue gets glue and a glued in dowel.
The middle and rear dowels get glued to the underside mortise cheek and float in the tongue.
glenn bradley
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One of those phases where a lot of work gets done but not much shows.
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Man, that's going to look very sharp with the finish on it.
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- Constantine, MI
I really like the way this is turning out.
Robert Horky
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it is going to be a home run for sure.
glenn bradley
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I know I wandered off a bit on this. I had a set back on a couple of breadboard ends that developed an unacceptable level of twist. I had a bit of a personal struggle as all other elements of the part were fine. I finally had to admit that the amount of twist was going to cause issues I just didn't want to deal with.
The good news is that I get to use the failed units as templates for the new ones thereby speeding up the "make another one" process.
I milled the new blanks oversized . . .
I let them acclimate for a couple of days.
Qnce they proved stable I jointed, planed, ripped, and crosscut the required blanks from them.
The failed originals worked fine for templates for the curves and other layout.
I use draw bore joinery for breadboards. I am sure most here have seen the use of a smaller diameter transfer punch to provide the offset draw bore hole in the mating piece. If not, search on draw bore joinery on Fine Woodworking's site. Lotsa good info there.
Above you see me using a 3/16" transfer punch to mark the hole location for a 1/4" through hole requiring a draw bore.
Peek-a-boo.
Once all profile routing and hand-grip routing are done I affix the breadboards to the panels.
The draw bore joints make a nice, tight, connection point.
The good news is that I get to use the failed units as templates for the new ones thereby speeding up the "make another one" process.
I milled the new blanks oversized . . .
I let them acclimate for a couple of days.
Qnce they proved stable I jointed, planed, ripped, and crosscut the required blanks from them.
The failed originals worked fine for templates for the curves and other layout.
I use draw bore joinery for breadboards. I am sure most here have seen the use of a smaller diameter transfer punch to provide the offset draw bore hole in the mating piece. If not, search on draw bore joinery on Fine Woodworking's site. Lotsa good info there.
Above you see me using a 3/16" transfer punch to mark the hole location for a 1/4" through hole requiring a draw bore.
Peek-a-boo.
Once all profile routing and hand-grip routing are done I affix the breadboards to the panels.
The draw bore joints make a nice, tight, connection point.
glenn bradley
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- 11,558
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- SoCal
Side note . . . . wired up one of those inexpensive, magnetic LED lights to the sander. Really helps these old eyes.
A hot tip; if you need to machine curved or sculpted parts . . . do as much as you can before adding the curves.
I use the DP and stops to drill the piliot holes for the screws that will hold the pulls in place. I have used brass inserts in the past and prefer them for smaller pulls. These have plenty of meat to set the mounting screws in so I skip the inserts.
I use Darrell Peart's square hole punches to square the ends of the routed slots that will accept the ebony splines.
The splines are tapered on all four sides to make them fit the mortise like a cork.
Every now and then my wife or I will have a clever idea out of nowhere. Our response to this phenomena is to look at each other and shout Gummmmp! I realized I could chuck the square hole punch and use the DP fence and stops to quickly and reliably square the ends of the routed slots.
I was gifted a Veritas Hand Jointer. Although I appreciated the gift I found I only used it a few times a year. Needing a method to consistently taper the splines I had an epiphany. I shimmed out the fence face to the position I required. I also made a little push stick to keep my pinkies away from the iron.
Then I used brass setup bars to set an angle for the fence in relation to the iron.
This lets me make a few passes per ebony blank to get the perfect 3 degree angle for the "cork" fit I am after.
A hot tip; if you need to machine curved or sculpted parts . . . do as much as you can before adding the curves.
I use the DP and stops to drill the piliot holes for the screws that will hold the pulls in place. I have used brass inserts in the past and prefer them for smaller pulls. These have plenty of meat to set the mounting screws in so I skip the inserts.
I use Darrell Peart's square hole punches to square the ends of the routed slots that will accept the ebony splines.
The splines are tapered on all four sides to make them fit the mortise like a cork.
Every now and then my wife or I will have a clever idea out of nowhere. Our response to this phenomena is to look at each other and shout Gummmmp! I realized I could chuck the square hole punch and use the DP fence and stops to quickly and reliably square the ends of the routed slots.
I was gifted a Veritas Hand Jointer. Although I appreciated the gift I found I only used it a few times a year. Needing a method to consistently taper the splines I had an epiphany. I shimmed out the fence face to the position I required. I also made a little push stick to keep my pinkies away from the iron.
Then I used brass setup bars to set an angle for the fence in relation to the iron.
This lets me make a few passes per ebony blank to get the perfect 3 degree angle for the "cork" fit I am after.
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Nice idea and wouldn't be to hard to make/adapt a jig for any number of hand planes to do the same!
glenn bradley
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I have used this method for other pulls in the past. I had thought about modifying a circle jig to make a "universal" trammel jig. The fact is that the need for such a thing is seldom so I just make them as required out of scrap. The pull shaping jig is just a trammel with a perpendicular end cap to hold the pull being milled.
The pull mounts via the connection points already selected and piloted.
The pivot is at a point that matches the radii of the pull's face radii. . . more or less.
The pull blank is band sawn to approximate shape to minimize the sander's effort.
You pass the blank across the edge sander's running belt via the trammel jig.
You end up here.
Ready to "fit" the ebony splines.
The pull mounts via the connection points already selected and piloted.
The pivot is at a point that matches the radii of the pull's face radii. . . more or less.
The pull blank is band sawn to approximate shape to minimize the sander's effort.
You pass the blank across the edge sander's running belt via the trammel jig.
You end up here.
Ready to "fit" the ebony splines.
glenn bradley
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I know this is getting almost as painful as watching paint dry but the last fw hours of almost any build just seem to be that way . I got my neighbor to help me lay this beast down on its back.
This put me in a good position for laying out and cutting the square peg details.
I use tape on a lot of things to make layout lines more obvious. I locate the through hole locations with a stubby awl that my dad made for me once upon a time.
I use a transfer punch to locate the drill guide.
A backer board and the drill guide give me a nice clean hole entrance and exist.
I test mounted a pull to check my layout.
Once I finish off my lunch break PB&J and these holes I will start on the backsplash.
. I got my neighbor to help me lay this beast down on its back.This put me in a good position for laying out and cutting the square peg details.
I use tape on a lot of things to make layout lines more obvious. I locate the through hole locations with a stubby awl that my dad made for me once upon a time.
I use a transfer punch to locate the drill guide.
A backer board and the drill guide give me a nice clean hole entrance and exist.
I test mounted a pull to check my layout.
Once I finish off my lunch break PB&J and these holes I will start on the backsplash.
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- Constantine, MI
Who knew watching paint dry could be so much fun? 
glenn bradley
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I guess I just ran out of gas . . . . I laid out the template for the backsplash per my drawings.
Roughed it out at the bandsaw and faired it at the bench.
I use this template to mark out the blank, rough the blank out at the bandsaw, and then template route it.
There is some additional work to be done on the backsplash that will become obvious later.
I started in on it but just ran out of gas . . . More tomorrow.
Roughed it out at the bandsaw and faired it at the bench.
I use this template to mark out the blank, rough the blank out at the bandsaw, and then template route it.
There is some additional work to be done on the backsplash that will become obvious later.
I started in on it but just ran out of gas . . . More tomorrow.
glenn bradley
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It's a new day . . . I made a quick template to route out the ebony spline mortises on the backsplash.
You can see the general look I am after here.
This Velcro may look goofy but I have had rare occasions (not rare enough) where I have raised the plunge router too high following a pass. The bearing leaves the controlled area and the cutter eats the pee-wad out of the template. This can be repaired with epoxy or bondo but, why not just not do it in the first place?
The brass setup bars help reinforce the somewhat delicate dividers on this template.
The test cut on some scrap went OK.
Following the cutting of the "keeper" I check the mortises very carefully. If there are any areas that got missed or are not as expected it is MUCH easier to address these with a chisel or gouge while the template is in place to act as a guide.
This gives you a pretty good idea of what I am after.
The ebony splines will be a bit proud and pillowed. This is a 'tip of the hat' to the G&G pull design on the bottom drawer of the bookcase in the living room of the Blacker House.
You can see the general look I am after here.
This Velcro may look goofy but I have had rare occasions (not rare enough) where I have raised the plunge router too high following a pass. The bearing leaves the controlled area and the cutter eats the pee-wad out of the template. This can be repaired with epoxy or bondo but, why not just not do it in the first place?
The brass setup bars help reinforce the somewhat delicate dividers on this template.
The test cut on some scrap went OK.
Following the cutting of the "keeper" I check the mortises very carefully. If there are any areas that got missed or are not as expected it is MUCH easier to address these with a chisel or gouge while the template is in place to act as a guide.
This gives you a pretty good idea of what I am after.
The ebony splines will be a bit proud and pillowed. This is a 'tip of the hat' to the G&G pull design on the bottom drawer of the bookcase in the living room of the Blacker House.
Last edited:
glenn bradley
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I went ahead and laid in a first color / finish coat for the pulls. The pulls get a bit more top coat than some other surfaces due to their use so I get a head start.
The long splines get a taper appied just like the smaller items mentioned above. The 'rounds' at the ends are roughed out at the sander.
I set the angle on the sander table to match the bevel on the long sides. The goal is to get the insert to fit like a cork to some degree.
The rounding gets me here.
To dome, or pillow, the surface I use whatever method is handy at the time. This set of shaped foam blocks has proven quite useful over the years. They don't include every profile but usually include some profile that I can use to my advantage.
The low profile dog (now with the new and improved brass screw) comes into play once again. A card scraper allows me to remove any tool marks leftover from the initial fitting operation.
This is the general look I am after.
You can see that the spline is not pressed into the mortise yet. I like to get all three ready and then glue and seat them at the same time.
The long splines get a taper appied just like the smaller items mentioned above. The 'rounds' at the ends are roughed out at the sander.
I set the angle on the sander table to match the bevel on the long sides. The goal is to get the insert to fit like a cork to some degree.
The rounding gets me here.
To dome, or pillow, the surface I use whatever method is handy at the time. This set of shaped foam blocks has proven quite useful over the years. They don't include every profile but usually include some profile that I can use to my advantage.
The low profile dog (now with the new and improved brass screw) comes into play once again. A card scraper allows me to remove any tool marks leftover from the initial fitting operation.
This is the general look I am after.
You can see that the spline is not pressed into the mortise yet. I like to get all three ready and then glue and seat them at the same time.
glenn bradley
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- 11,558
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- SoCal
Limping along . . . . Actually I'm making pretty good progress. My gimpy wrist is almost a memory and many of the next few steps require a "do and wait" situation. Gluing / clamping the splines in place.
I got a laugh out of some of my Jorgies. It is easy to tell the ones I bought when I re-started my woodworking efforts 20-odd years ago versus the ones I have left over from my college years when I used to make tuition money by building flying sound reinforcement speaker cabinets. Note the rich patina . . .
At any rate, the splines are in place and I am moving along . . .
. Actually I'm making pretty good progress. My gimpy wrist is almost a memory and many of the next few steps require a "do and wait" situation. Gluing / clamping the splines in place.I got a laugh out of some of my Jorgies. It is easy to tell the ones I bought when I re-started my woodworking efforts 20-odd years ago versus the ones I have left over from my college years when I used to make tuition money by building flying sound reinforcement speaker cabinets. Note the rich patina . . .
At any rate, the splines are in place and I am moving along . . .
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Love the depth of detail you share 