I have not used carbon tracing papers for years.
Most every pattern that I've ever cut from in the last 25 years has been scanned into my computer, so I can resize it and print as many copies as I want. Then I can attach these copies to the wood and not worry about cutting them up. This helps to keep me from loosing the original too. It's always located in one place, in my computer. Pattern copies from laser printers or photo copy machines that use high temperature black wax powder as ink can pe mirror image printed on paper, and then just "Ironed" onto the wood using a household clothes iron (no steam). Keep one edge of the pattern taped to the wood for alignment, so you can lift to see if the image has fully transferred to the wood, then go back and re-heat any areas that have not fully transferred.
With the reindeer and other small scroll saw patterns, I use a photo processing program to adjust their size and then add as many duplicates as will fit on 8 /2 X 11" sheets as possible. I have 30 of the ear ring size reindeer on one sheet of paper and can later separate them with scissors as needed. Since my 3D scroll saw patterns get glued to the blocks of wood and the reindeer come out of the center of the wood block, the cut up pattern falls off with the waste wood, so removing the pattern after the cutting is never a problem. I usually use stationery store rubber cement, but have actually use carpenters glue. For 2D patterns where the pattern paper needs to be removed later, there are many glues designed to be removed from the wood easier after the cutting. Most are wax based, so come off of the wood easy with a light dampening of mineral spirits. Rubber cement comes off easily with mineral spirits too, though it can affect any final finishing if not cleaned off well.
Most any photo program will let you use a procedure called "layers" to copy, then position, and paste duplicates or other small patterns side by side to fill a sheet of the same pattern or several different patterns, if each is small. It saves a lot of paper. Starting with a blank image 8 1/2 X 11" in size, you open the desired pattern file and size them on the screen, so you can see both. Then you click on the desired pattern file and drag it over to the blank image file to create a "layer" image on top of the blank image.
Think of a "layer" as an image that's on a clear sheet of plastic that you can move around on top of the blank sheet. You are just copying the image desired onto a layer and then positioning it where you want. You can see both, but you can move the layer or modify it without affecting the original or other layers below it. Repeat the process to add an additional images or copies, as many times as needed to add more images. You can save the final "stacked image" so you can modify each separately later, or "Flatten" the file to put everything on the base sheet, still in the positions desired. This reduces the file size, but prevents future position modifications of each "layered image". There will be a "Layers" pop-up file. In it, you get to rename or number each layer to help you keep track of it, and later, if adjustments are needed to one of the layers already added, you can select the working layer within the stack to allow you to move or modify it without affecting the rest of the layers above and below it.
Charley