Lathe question.

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269
Location
Victoria, TX
I have an older Rockwell lathe. It is belt driven and speed is adjusted by working the belts to progressively larger or smaller pulleys. Most of my turning has been limited to pieces 4"- 6" in diameter. I'd like to do some bigger bowls of up to 11". That's as much as I can do on that lathe. I'm not ready to buy another one at this point.

My question is; Can I install a rheostat to adjust the speed for the larger pieces without damaging the motor?

Alan
 
My question is; Can I install a rheostat to adjust the speed for the larger pieces without damaging the motor?
99.99% odds the answer is no.

It's most likely a 120v magnetic drive motor, rheostat's only "work" on universal AC/DC motors (with brushes). A rheostat drops the voltage which will cause the motor to draw more amps. Amps create heat.. and heat destroys coils.

I put "work" in quotes because they can also toast universal motors but it's much less likely.
 
Don, I've tried the different combinations and they "seem" too fast to me. It could just be me though. I suppose I'm just not confident that the blank won't come apart. I don't ever start out with a square blank. I cut it as round as I can on the band saw and then center the chuck. Even then I get a lot of vibration until I get it round.

The right answer is nearly always "Get the right tool for the job"...

Alan
 
If you doing larger bowls, best to start slow as you get the blank round and running without vibration, you can then raise speed as you are comfortable.
My lathe has a Reeves unit and the bottom speed is 450 rpms.... I start most bowls there and work up as the blank spins more true. I rarely ever go over 850 on larger bowls, 1100 on smaller bowls, even though my lathe will turn at about 3000 rpms at its fasted speed.

I do turn my pepper mills at about 1900-2000 but they are mostly spindle turning anyway and you can go faster with them.

Some lathes do have conversion kits that switch out the DC motor to an AC motor that will work with an EVS set up... don't know if they would work on your lathe.. I know I can't switch out my motor on my lathe, or at least it's not recommended.
 
There are a couple things I've found true with bowl lathes.

The heavier they are the better. Mine comes in at 682 soaking wet, and I added another 300lbs+ into the base, my only regret in that regard was that I didn't figure out how to add more hah.

Variable speed and low speed is highly useful, and the ability of a motor to sustain high torque at low speed even more so.



On the electricity side, the basics are actually pretty simple once you ignore all of the complex details 🙄 :unsure: ;)

There's a fairly decent explanation of the single phase AC motor situation here:

The short version is that rheostats vary voltage (push) but not frequency (timing) so a simple single speed AC motor will always try to run at the same speed (as determined by the frequency / number of "poles" aka independent windings). Since power (watts) = voltage * amps, that means it has to make up the difference to get that same spin by drawing more amps. Amps are what make heat.. heat leads to smoke.. smoke leads to the dark side (or at least dead motors).

Three phase variable speed works by varying frequency and voltage in concert so they are "balanced", but if you apply to much resistance to the motor outside of the operating spec (i.e. spinning a huge unbalanced blank at super low speeds..) the wiring can still get pretty warm. Which is why the newer PM 3520B lathes set their bottom speed at 100rpm not 50rpm like the A series (to many smoked motors).

Universal motors are a bit different, and even there a rheostat is a bit of a 100lb hammer to kill the fly and can significantly shorten motor life (especially if used under load) as there are nominally better solutions now.
 
Alan, it sounds like you are trying to mount your blanks using the physical center instead of the weight center. I always use the weight center and it vastly reduced the vibration and lathe walking. I use a 1/2" piece of pipe in a flange. Stand it up on a level surface, put your wood on it and move it around until it stays steady. The carefully mark around the pipe. I use a Sharpie for that. Then mount the wood on the chuck or face plate. I learned to do that with my old lathe which had the Reeves drive. I still use that method even with my newer lathe that has the EVS that slows down to 0 and goes to 3200 or so. Though I rarely see need to go past 1000 rpm.
 
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