- Messages
- 16,430
- Location
- Reno NV
Yeah, That ones gonna need some accuracy. Maybe tack weld, see how it works before finalizing?
5' x 5' CNC Router Build
- Thread starter Darren Wright
- Start date
- Messages
- 19,818
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
Yeah, that is the plan, then fit it on the frame and check if things are looking square and the tail stock is moving ok before final welds. As for the shims to give the tail stock lock clearance, I may just end up notching out the support on the far end to make things easier after looking at it again.
- Messages
- 19,818
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
Tonight I started with cutting out a notch in the tail stock support end of the rotary rail supports to allow clearance for the locking mechanism of the tail stock. This was later filled with a piece of angle tacked into place to keep the saw dust out. I'll be capping the sides of the supports using plastic tubing caps, same for the ends of the rails.
Next was fabricating a rear mounting bracket for the head stock.
Last up was drilling the rest of the head stock mounting holes and drilling and tapping holes for the stepper motor mount/adjustment studs.
The adjustment studs are about 3" long, so will be able to get all of the slack out of the belt once I get the stepper mounted to its bracket and the rotary frame painted up, which are tomorrows tasks. I'll be 3d printing a cover for the belt and pulley btw.
Next was fabricating a rear mounting bracket for the head stock.
Last up was drilling the rest of the head stock mounting holes and drilling and tapping holes for the stepper motor mount/adjustment studs.
The adjustment studs are about 3" long, so will be able to get all of the slack out of the belt once I get the stepper mounted to its bracket and the rotary frame painted up, which are tomorrows tasks. I'll be 3d printing a cover for the belt and pulley btw.
- Messages
- 16,430
- Location
- Reno NV
That is going to be fun to use I think.
- Messages
- 19,818
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
So I happened to notice on the video I posted on Allen's thread, that they were using an auto zero on the rotary. Looks like I have another thing to make...
Me too!
- Messages
- 19,818
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
I need to do some tuning and set the steps per rotation, but it's moving...
It's square and parallel to the table.
I may need to pickup a self centering 4 jaw as well to use to make using it easier.
The motor mount is just 4 threaded studs, using a bracket that lets me adjust the alignment with the head stock pulley.
I ended up capping the ends and the mount risers with plastic plugs to give it a little cleaner look and keep the dust out.
It's square and parallel to the table.
I may need to pickup a self centering 4 jaw as well to use to make using it easier.
The motor mount is just 4 threaded studs, using a bracket that lets me adjust the alignment with the head stock pulley.
I ended up capping the ends and the mount risers with plastic plugs to give it a little cleaner look and keep the dust out.
- Messages
- 16,430
- Location
- Reno NV
Really looks sharp. Can't wait to see what you make with it.
- Messages
- 35,761
- Location
- ABQ NM
Awesome! 
I was thinking the same thing when you first posted pics of that chuck. Doesn't need to be fancy, but self-centering would be a big timesaver. Grizzly and Penn State both have budget chucks that'd probably fit the bill.
- Messages
- 19,818
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
Today I got the Rotary motor steps tuned and tested out, but still need to run a job on it.
I also printed up the timing belt cover
I also did a cover under the chuck to block chips from falling into the timing belt from above, though I may draw and print up a few more for the sides.
I got the new flow indicator with temp sensor installed, as well as the read-out display. The yellow indicator is a bit harder to see than the old blue one, but still visible.
I took a 3 1/4" hole saw to the dust port I 3d printed a couple of weeks ago to test out on my current dust boot. Still misses some chips from below, but nothing is getting past the upper part now.
After all that, I just wanted to cut something out, so tested out on some pine I had sitting by the machine and found a boot jack design that would fit the piece. I don't think I'll do anymore from pine, just too fuzzy on the cuts. I'm thinking I'll do some of these for gifts, there is room for logos and maybe some laser engraving.
I also printed up the timing belt cover
I also did a cover under the chuck to block chips from falling into the timing belt from above, though I may draw and print up a few more for the sides.
I got the new flow indicator with temp sensor installed, as well as the read-out display. The yellow indicator is a bit harder to see than the old blue one, but still visible.
I took a 3 1/4" hole saw to the dust port I 3d printed a couple of weeks ago to test out on my current dust boot. Still misses some chips from below, but nothing is getting past the upper part now.
After all that, I just wanted to cut something out, so tested out on some pine I had sitting by the machine and found a boot jack design that would fit the piece. I don't think I'll do anymore from pine, just too fuzzy on the cuts. I'm thinking I'll do some of these for gifts, there is room for logos and maybe some laser engraving.
- Messages
- 16,430
- Location
- Reno NV
Still, a good boot jack comes in handy. Awesome job on getting that beast running and making stuff!
- Messages
- 19,818
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
Well I had to take the cargo trailer this past weekend to work on my daughters place, so I decided to bring the cnc back with me, Unfortunately got in a hurry and didn’t grab the box with the spindle and wiring. Looks like I’ll spend the next month assembling the frame only.
Leo Voisine
Member
- Messages
- 5,648
- Location
- East Freeetown, Massachusetts
WhoooHoooo - back in the saddle again.
Jonathan Shively
Member
- Messages
- 7,983
- Location
- North West Indiana
Designer slab wood! That should sell better than Chip and Joanne Gaines "ship lap" wood!
- Messages
- 19,818
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
Well, got the frame back together, but all the cabling and the spindle are still in storage in KC. I go back up next month, so will pick it up then.
In the mean time I updated from windows 8.1 to windows 10, as windows 8 end of life is around January 10th. It was a simple upgrade using a 8gb usb stick and using the Windows media creation tool.
I also need to get a 220v 30amp plug installed in the mean time and rebuild the back wall of the shop, before moving the table into its spot. And some stuff to take to the scrap yard.
In the mean time I updated from windows 8.1 to windows 10, as windows 8 end of life is around January 10th. It was a simple upgrade using a 8gb usb stick and using the Windows media creation tool.
I also need to get a 220v 30amp plug installed in the mean time and rebuild the back wall of the shop, before moving the table into its spot. And some stuff to take to the scrap yard.
- Messages
- 35,761
- Location
- ABQ NM
OT, but thanks for the heads-up on the Windows Media Creation Tool. My laptop has been showing signs it needs to be wiped and have everything reinstalled (spontaneous reboots several times daily), and I didn't know how to get a fresh copy of Windows 10. Not looking forward to reinstalling everything again.
- Messages
- 11,234
I need to upgrade the windows on my 3D printer computer it's still win 8, maybe I'll try to put 11 on it since it's not my every day machine.
- Messages
- 19,818
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
You’ll have to do the hardware check to see if the cou is supported. I don’t have any that are so far, probably why my work sold them so cheap.
Toni Ciuraneta
Member
- Messages
- 5,625
- Location
- Catalunya
I'm a newbbie as far as CNC is concerned, my machine has a 1,5Kw liquid cooled spindle and obviously I cannot compare it with any other to give any advice. I use distilled water as coolant and it keeps it almost as cold as when it is off. I have a 15 liter drum as reservoir, the first time I used it it didn't cool it that well because the pump was sucking the hot water as the returning pipe end was close to the inlet of the pump, solved it by fixing it to the lid and letting it one inch below the surface level.
- Messages
- 19,818
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
I only had some warmer summer days that the coolant got warmer than it was beginning, but never high enough that it was a concern. I'm running a 2.2 KW and use the RV Antifreeze. I'm going to try some other options as I had some build-up, but think I had some bacteria in the system or something.
- Messages
- 19,818
- Location
- Springfield, Missouri
I got the corner cleaned out today.
I picked up a new sub panel and will work on getting the current feed and circuits switched over to it.
The old panel and circuits run through most of the studs that need replacing.
I do plan to replace the current feed (60 amp) with a 100 amp feed from the pole as our meter box has the main breaker and two additional sub breaker spots for feeds.
I picked up a new sub panel and will work on getting the current feed and circuits switched over to it.
The old panel and circuits run through most of the studs that need replacing.
I do plan to replace the current feed (60 amp) with a 100 amp feed from the pole as our meter box has the main breaker and two additional sub breaker spots for feeds.