Stuart Ablett
Member
- Messages
- 15,917
- Location
- Tokyo Japan
Well I'm finally getting around to building the large format humidor for the liquor shop. It will be very much like a china cabinet but with humidification.
This is sort of the type of thing I'm shooting for.....
The one I'm building will be two pieces and the bottom piece will be a bit deeper than the top piece, but only a few inches. Bottom will be for housing the humidification unit and storage, the top will be for display of cigars.
Some WIP pics....
First I have to come clean about something, I often say that because of my limited shop space I don't use my tablesaw to break down sheet goods, well as this picture proves, I was not entirely telling the truth about that.....
... I do use the SawStop, but not by itself
I got the Lee Valley shelf hole drilling jig a while back, boy does it work slick....
... maybe too slick, as I ended up drilling WAY too many holes
Here is the dry fit....
and then the glue up.....
I glued and shot brad nails at the same time, worked well, the case went together nicely!
The kick is a seperate piece, maybe I'm nuts, but I like doing cases this way, then I can level the kick on the floor before the case is on it. The kick will be attached to the floor and the case to the wall behind it, we do live in earthquake country.
The cases are made from the lumber core Shina (Basswood) plywood, I don't really like this stuff, but that is what I have to use. The face frames and doors will be solid wood, not sure what yet. I'm thinking to just go with Maple and then stain it. Where the humidor will go in the shop only the front will really be visible. I'm thinking to stain the whole humidor and then apply several coats of Urethane to it.
The case will be 90cm/35 1/2" wide and a total of 200cm/78 3/4" tall. The lower part of the humidor will be 65cm/25.6" tall and the upper portion with the glass doors will be 135cm/53" tall. I'm wanting to go with two tall wide doors, I think this will be OK as the cabinet is only 90cm/35.5" wide, the doors will be slightly less than that. I plan on having fairly thick rails and stiles, maybe up to a inch, and fairly wide as well, this should give me good strong doors. I think I can get away with 5mm tempered glass for the doors, no real rules or laws that I can find here, talking to the glass guy down the street this is what he thinks will be OK, might go for 6mm thick just in case but he says it will just be heavier, and will not really be that much stronger.
Next step will be to head down to Shin-Kiba and buy some rough lumber, going to pay for some good stuff this time around, not bother with the hockey stick material
I have the idea to run some of the LED interior lights that activate when you open the doors as well as the humidification unit and all the vents and fans needed to get good consistent air flow. The shelving in the bottom will be solid, but with an air space, at the back and front, but the shelves in the upper case will be made from strips of wood like drying racks to make sure that there is good air flow.
I'm thinking that I'll put a center divider in the upper case like the lower case, mainly to strengthen the cabinet, but this will also allow me to have the shelves on each side to be set at different levels if I need to.
Lots more to come, this should be a good build, with a good mix of stuff.
Cheers!
This is sort of the type of thing I'm shooting for.....
The one I'm building will be two pieces and the bottom piece will be a bit deeper than the top piece, but only a few inches. Bottom will be for housing the humidification unit and storage, the top will be for display of cigars.
Some WIP pics....
First I have to come clean about something, I often say that because of my limited shop space I don't use my tablesaw to break down sheet goods, well as this picture proves, I was not entirely telling the truth about that.....
... I do use the SawStop, but not by itself
I got the Lee Valley shelf hole drilling jig a while back, boy does it work slick....
... maybe too slick, as I ended up drilling WAY too many holes
Here is the dry fit....
and then the glue up.....
I glued and shot brad nails at the same time, worked well, the case went together nicely!
The kick is a seperate piece, maybe I'm nuts, but I like doing cases this way, then I can level the kick on the floor before the case is on it. The kick will be attached to the floor and the case to the wall behind it, we do live in earthquake country.
The cases are made from the lumber core Shina (Basswood) plywood, I don't really like this stuff, but that is what I have to use. The face frames and doors will be solid wood, not sure what yet. I'm thinking to just go with Maple and then stain it. Where the humidor will go in the shop only the front will really be visible. I'm thinking to stain the whole humidor and then apply several coats of Urethane to it.
The case will be 90cm/35 1/2" wide and a total of 200cm/78 3/4" tall. The lower part of the humidor will be 65cm/25.6" tall and the upper portion with the glass doors will be 135cm/53" tall. I'm wanting to go with two tall wide doors, I think this will be OK as the cabinet is only 90cm/35.5" wide, the doors will be slightly less than that. I plan on having fairly thick rails and stiles, maybe up to a inch, and fairly wide as well, this should give me good strong doors. I think I can get away with 5mm tempered glass for the doors, no real rules or laws that I can find here, talking to the glass guy down the street this is what he thinks will be OK, might go for 6mm thick just in case but he says it will just be heavier, and will not really be that much stronger.
Next step will be to head down to Shin-Kiba and buy some rough lumber, going to pay for some good stuff this time around, not bother with the hockey stick material
I have the idea to run some of the LED interior lights that activate when you open the doors as well as the humidification unit and all the vents and fans needed to get good consistent air flow. The shelving in the bottom will be solid, but with an air space, at the back and front, but the shelves in the upper case will be made from strips of wood like drying racks to make sure that there is good air flow.
I'm thinking that I'll put a center divider in the upper case like the lower case, mainly to strengthen the cabinet, but this will also allow me to have the shelves on each side to be set at different levels if I need to.
Lots more to come, this should be a good build, with a good mix of stuff.
Cheers!