Bandsaw Blade Changeout

[Dave Hoskins]

When I bought my new Grizzly 17" band saw first part of September, I also bought a couple of 1" Timber Wolf blades. Today, I changed out the 1" blade for the first time. Installing the 1" blade the first time was done by the instructions and it was a royal pain in the buttocks. All the wiggling and jiggling and sometimes cutting your hands. Hmmmph. So, I decided there had to be an easier way. The blade slot runs off to the side of the blade so that's why there is all that hassle with a large width blade. I am sure a 1/2" is no problem. So, after pondering for a few minutes I decided it would be a whole lot easier to just take the table off, then do the r&r on the blade. Oh, Yeah!!! Lots easier. The table is cast iron so not overly heavy but does weigh a few pounds. Getting the bolt back into the table was not too bad after a little wiggling around, and then all went back just fine. I think the whole process took me about 1/2 hour. Might seem a bit long, but I also did a couple of fine adjustments to the guides while I was at it. So all in all, that is to me the way to get it done. Hopes this might help a couple or so who might be having the same problem.

 

[Darren Wright]

Mine isn't nearly that large of a bandsaw, but I too did find that tuning up the guides to be a lot easier when the table is off and you can see them.

 

[Bill Arnold]

When changing the blade on my Grizzly 17", I run the blade guide all the way up, loosen the blade tension, turn the blade sideways and slide it out the slot. The only area I have any clearance issue is under the table where I have to tilt the blade a small amount for it to align with the table slot. I can change a blade in 10-15 minutes without breaking a sweat, but it took some practice.

 

[Dave Hoskins]

Got a couple of questions, Bill. Is the blade you are changing out a 1" width? Two, is your blade slot in the table running parallel to the blade or at a 90 degree angle like mine?

 

[Paul Douglass]

I only have a 14", but I will do every thing I can think of to not have to change blades on it. Fact it is the main reason I don't use the saw much. I'm sitting here wondering what would be wrong with have the slot come straight out from the blade as opposed to a 90° angle. Wouldn't that make things a lot easier?

 

[Dave Hoskins]

I had a 14" before this one, and generally, it was a pain all the way around. Didn't know it at the time, but it was not well built. Ain't mentioning the brand name. But it begins with a C. Did I do that right??? Changing the blades on it was a pain as well. Also, keeping everything tuned in just right for best performance. When the scrappers hauled it off with some other stuff I saluted and clapped and WHEEE!!!. I think with my saw's slot at the 90° angle is a bit different for me. But, with smaller blades like a 1/2" or even a 3/4" it would not be as much of a hassle as the 1". But, man. I do love the cutting ability of that 1" blade. AWESOME!!! So, if I have to take the table off to change that blade, I will do it. Now that I know what to do, it won't take me as long. Maybe 20 minutes unless I have some guide adjustments to make.

 

[Bill Arnold]

Got a couple of questions, Bill. Is the blade you are changing out a 1" width? Two, is your blade slot in the table running parallel to the blade or at a 90 degree angle like mine?

When I first got the saw, I had a 1" blade. It was more difficult to change, but doable. The slot is perpendicular to the blade - the only way I've ever seen.

Speaking of 1" blades, I got them for re-sawing but soon was disappointed. Further research led me to the 3/4" Timberwolf that worked well. Next, I tried the 1/2" Woodslicer that worked the best of all of them.

 

[Dave Hoskins]

Some table slots run parallel to the blade and some at the 90° angle. The 14" I had before ran parallel. I don't know. The 1" Timberwolf I just changed lasted 2 months of solid cutting. All hard wood for the most part. I consider that pretty good. I may try the 3/4" in time. But, we shall see. Seeing I never could hold my mouth right on changing the 1" the "right" way, I'll take the easy way out and remove the table first. Less twisting and so on.

 

[Ryan Mooney]

That's one complaint on the Grizz I have, having the slot run straight in would make changing big blades a lot easier. I think the theory is that the side slot has better support so should be more stable, but I'm not sure.. I can get a 3/4" blade on and off but it requires pushing the guides fully back and holding my tongue just right to get it to slide into place. My most used blade is a 3/8" 3TPI hooked green cutting blade though and it goes on reasonably easily.

 

[Dave Hoskins]

Ryan, I agree. They should have the slot parallel. Some engineer decided otherwise. Guess they never put a 1" blade on one of them. That'd change their minds, me thinks. But, I am now thinking that the next order will be 3/4". I really don't use a band saw for anything but getting blanks to the general shape I want, and most of the time a 1/2" blade won't get it done for me. I probably unfairly want the saw to rip, snort, snarl, and cut all at the same time!

 

[Ryan Mooney]

Well, I've cut over 10" with the 3/8" but it wasn't nearly as fast as the 3/4 carbide

I'm sort of torn on the "right" blade to use for blanks honestly. Having a heavier beam faster cutting blade is awfully nice speed wise, but it tends to not do corners quite as well. So I tend to use the beefier blade mostly for slabs. I've also kind of come (partially .. sort of..) to the conclusion that the tooth shape and spacing is somewhat more important than absolute blade width, within some unknown boundary or width (like obviously a 1/4" blade isn't going to work. but maybe a 1/2" blade with the right geometry/spacing is maybe better than a 1" that's not..).

I'm not sure there's one "right" answer other than clearly the slot should be at the front of the table

 

[Dave Hoskins]

I honestly can't imagine trying to cut 10" with a 3/8" blade! Wow! You have patience personified, my man. I am sure there is a finite formula for blade tooth spacing and shape and all vs. width. But until I get it figgered out, I'm gonna go with the muscle blade! 3/4" to 1" band saw blade = muscle!!

 

[Vaughn McMillan]

My go-to blades for cutting turning blanks up to about 12" thick are either 1/2" or 5/8", with 3 or 4 tpi. I can still cut a reasonable radius, but I can lean into the blade pretty firmly for speed.

 

[Dave Hoskins]

I only get 3 or tpi blades, regardless of width. Seems to be the way to go for my workings. I don't worry about rounding anything so wider blades work for me best. Or, at least they seem to be the best. But, right now the only thing I know for sure is I watched "The Giant Spider Invasion" from 1975 this evening and it was rather humorous at times. Had Alan Hale Jr, and Barbara Hale in it. What can I say??? I know. Has nothing to do with band saw blades.

 

[Ryan Mooney]

Well to fit some of the larger pieces on the lathe I have carefully shave the corners.. so rounding

I also had to do some flat work the last couple of weeks which needed a few curves cut to relieve some profiles, had to change out the blade to a 1/4" with lower TPI for that in order to accomodate the thinkness and curve radius. It's all about the # of teeth in the wood for thickness (at least 3 and then adjust as needed based on gullet clearing capability).

Maybe a portable handheld bandsaw would work against the spiders?

 

[glenn bradley]

My experience is like Bill's but, I did remove those little guard wings that are part of the lower guide assembly. I put in a spacer to make up for the thickness/position of the bearing.

 

[Chuck Ellis]

I don't buy any of the high priced blades... on one of the forums I read that a tech from Timberwolf said to a forum member that a band saw blade is only good for about 200-300 board feet of cutting.... A dull blade will cut your fingers off. I use a 1/2 or 3/8" blade on my Delta 14" to cut my bowl blanks...I've cut about 30-40 blanks in a 3 hour session and not had any problems.

I would like to get some better guides and a longer guide bar for my saw... I put a riser block on it from Grizzly (about $50 cheaper than the Delta riser (yeah I'm cheap)) the riser guide bar from Grizzly is a littler narrower than the one from Delta, so I had trouble keeping it secure and aligned... I put the Delta bar back on, but it won't get a low as I would like to cut, I have about 6" of exposed blade even when cutting a 1" board.

 

[Dave Hoskins]

One thing I have learned from all of this is: band saws can be highly problematic. Some more than others.

 

[Ryan Mooney]

One thing I have learned from all of this is: band saws can be highly problematic. Some more than others.

And unpredictable so right when you need the thing.

 

[Dave Hoskins]

How true! How true!!!