Welcome Jay,
The design posted above should be fine for you. As projects get bigger and heavier, you may want to build something bigger and heavier (I seem to over build my workbenches, but they never have failed on me.
Here are a few ideas for how I make solid, minimal cost work benches, but I don't think I have ever built two the same way.
Design #1
Construction lumber (2 X 6, 8, etc) will make a good solid top, but with wide cracks at the seams that will open up as the wood dries and ages, even if you butt them tightly together when the wood is still new and relatively green. When they dry enough to become a problem, adding a sheet of tempered hard board (once called Masonite) to the bench top will give you a smooth, gap free, and very flat and hard surface to work on, that can be replaced when it finally begins to show serious wear.
Design #2
Another good solid top that won't have gaps is two, or maybe three layers of 3/4" void free plywood (or at least the top layer), later also with the tempered hard board added as the soft plywood surface needs freshening. Some double sided tape, like carpet tape, in small areas between the plywood layers and hard board layer will hold the tempered hard board and the lower layers in place, yet still be removeable when the day comes to replace the hard board (just pry slowly to get the tape to release). Machine shops use a double sided tape with much higher bonding properties that you might want, but the carpet tape bonding has always worked well for me in situations like this. Both pieces need to be flat and not warped though, as the spring of the warp will pull the tape bonding apart.
The frame of construction lumber will work well if you build it heavy enough, but I build the legs out of a 2X4 and a 2X6 attached together to form an L to make each leg in the way that makes each side the same approximate dimension and attach them to the table frame with largish bolts, washers, and nuts so they can be retightened as needed to remove wobble, and then removed when it comes time to move the workbench (to the next bigger workshop, maybe?). I did use a solid and thick conference room door for a workbench top, with construction lumber frame below. It had the most beautiful top of any workbench that I've ever had as the top and back veneer layer was mahogany. It was too good to pound on, but cheaper, smoother, and flatter than any other workbench than I ever built. The door came from a Habitat Store and it had been in their rack for years without being sold, so marked down again and again, until it became the best price for me to build a workbench from. They seemed to be very pleased to see it gone.
I always like my workbenches to have a top surface that matches or is slightly below my table saw, so "really big" pieces can be moved over the bench as it's being fed into the table saw. In fact, anything in the central area around the table saw needs to be this level. So make certain that your table saw is a comfortable height before attempting to build any other shop furniture that might need something slid across it as it's being fed to the table saw. Benches, tools, etc. along the walls or at least out of the reach of 4 X 8 sheet stock as it's being cut on the table saw can be any height desired, except remember that
long stock being cut on a radial arm saw or miter saw is going to require a long row of benches at the same height as the table of the saw.
So this height problem is a bit more complicated than you were probably expecting. My best suggestion is to make certain that your table saw, likely in the center of your shop, is at a comfortable height for you. Tall and shorter people have different comfort zones, so work to what is most comfortable for those who will likely use the table saw, Then everything else within a sheet of plywood + is at or just slightly below your chosen table saw height.
My Delta Unisaw, located in roughly the center of my shop, was built at a height that works well with my 5'8" height, so I started with it and worked from there. I don't think I have ever actually measured it, but it's been perfect for me and how I do my work.
Charley