Best Material for a Workshop Bench?

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9
Location
Wauwatosa, WI
Newly retired and in the process of remodeling my shop. I want to build a permanent work bench. I've read different recommendations online that recommend either multiple layers of plywood or construction lumber arranged on end and glued together. I am leaning towards the latter. I read an article that said it was best to take 2" X 12", rip them in half and glue them together on the face. The recommended 2" X 12" claiming it would have fewer knots. They also said the larger lumber is probably more aged than more commonly used 4: and 6". Appreciate any feedback or recommendations
 
Hi Jay. It would help if you describe how you plan to use the bench. Is this a neander bench or just a general purpose bench for a powered tool shop?
 
all my benches are made of 2x66's. none too pretty, so that if i drip some paint, or shellac, i don't feel bad. if i need to tap a nail in, i don't feel too bad about that either. one thing i can't figure out, is why someone would make a workbench that is too pretty to work on, for fear of marking it up.
fully assembled bench.JPGwork bench typical.jpg
 
I made mine with three layers of ¾" plywood for the top. It's 32"wide X 8' long. I ripped two sheets of plywood to 32" wide and used the two 16" cutoffs as the middle layer.

After 25 years of wear and tear, and being used for all sorts of wood, metal, and fiberglass work it's pretty beat up, but still flat and useable. It's about ten years old it the photo below.

bench 2 (Medium).JPG
 
One of the best benches I have was made with squared up construction lumber frame supporting two layers of 3/4" MDF that sit in a rabbet in the top frame members. The MDF was only attached with a few screws around the perimeter so that if it were to get damaged it could be flipped over. If necessary the bottom layer of MDF can become the top. That bench stays right where you place it with the heavy frame and top. I have vises on the left front and right side. If I remember correctly this bench was in an issue of ShopNotes 20 or more years ago.

On a smaller finishing bench I used one layer of MDF that was rabbeted into the top frame. That rabbet was 1/4" deeper than the MDF so that I could place a layer of oil tempered hardboard that was attached to the MDF with a few brads around the perimeter. That tempered hardboard has lasted many years without the need for replacement and takes all the abuse I have given it with a smile.

One of the most important considerations for a bench is that it sits level and does not rock.
 
Hi Jay, welcome to the forum and congratulations on your retirement.

I’d have the same question as Bill. What is the general purpose and type of work you need it for? Any particular style you’re wanting to go with?

Lots of options, build styles, and budget busters to consider. ;)
 
Welcome Jay,

The design posted above should be fine for you. As projects get bigger and heavier, you may want to build something bigger and heavier (I seem to over build my workbenches, but they never have failed on me.

Here are a few ideas for how I make solid, minimal cost work benches, but I don't think I have ever built two the same way.

Design #1

Construction lumber (2 X 6, 8, etc) will make a good solid top, but with wide cracks at the seams that will open up as the wood dries and ages, even if you butt them tightly together when the wood is still new and relatively green. When they dry enough to become a problem, adding a sheet of tempered hard board (once called Masonite) to the bench top will give you a smooth, gap free, and very flat and hard surface to work on, that can be replaced when it finally begins to show serious wear.

Design #2

Another good solid top that won't have gaps is two, or maybe three layers of 3/4" void free plywood (or at least the top layer), later also with the tempered hard board added as the soft plywood surface needs freshening. Some double sided tape, like carpet tape, in small areas between the plywood layers and hard board layer will hold the tempered hard board and the lower layers in place, yet still be removeable when the day comes to replace the hard board (just pry slowly to get the tape to release). Machine shops use a double sided tape with much higher bonding properties that you might want, but the carpet tape bonding has always worked well for me in situations like this. Both pieces need to be flat and not warped though, as the spring of the warp will pull the tape bonding apart.

The frame of construction lumber will work well if you build it heavy enough, but I build the legs out of a 2X4 and a 2X6 attached together to form an L to make each leg in the way that makes each side the same approximate dimension and attach them to the table frame with largish bolts, washers, and nuts so they can be retightened as needed to remove wobble, and then removed when it comes time to move the workbench (to the next bigger workshop, maybe?). I did use a solid and thick conference room door for a workbench top, with construction lumber frame below. It had the most beautiful top of any workbench that I've ever had as the top and back veneer layer was mahogany. It was too good to pound on, but cheaper, smoother, and flatter than any other workbench than I ever built. The door came from a Habitat Store and it had been in their rack for years without being sold, so marked down again and again, until it became the best price for me to build a workbench from. They seemed to be very pleased to see it gone.

I always like my workbenches to have a top surface that matches or is slightly below my table saw, so "really big" pieces can be moved over the bench as it's being fed into the table saw. In fact, anything in the central area around the table saw needs to be this level. So make certain that your table saw is a comfortable height before attempting to build any other shop furniture that might need something slid across it as it's being fed to the table saw. Benches, tools, etc. along the walls or at least out of the reach of 4 X 8 sheet stock as it's being cut on the table saw can be any height desired, except remember that
long stock being cut on a radial arm saw or miter saw is going to require a long row of benches at the same height as the table of the saw.

So this height problem is a bit more complicated than you were probably expecting. My best suggestion is to make certain that your table saw, likely in the center of your shop, is at a comfortable height for you. Tall and shorter people have different comfort zones, so work to what is most comfortable for those who will likely use the table saw, Then everything else within a sheet of plywood + is at or just slightly below your chosen table saw height.

My Delta Unisaw, located in roughly the center of my shop, was built at a height that works well with my 5'8" height, so I started with it and worked from there. I don't think I have ever actually measured it, but it's been perfect for me and how I do my work.

Charley
 
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My hand tool bench is 2x4's cut square, laid on edge and glued up leaving it about 3" thick which is IMHO a decent thickness for most stuff. I really like using holdfasts and bench of various types for some things and that's about thick enough that they grab well but not so thick that they don't (if it's to thick the holdfasts tend to not have enough angle in the hole and slip). Having made that one I can assuredly say that picking lumber with the fewest possible knots and getting it as straight as possible before glue up would've been hugely beneficial. I got it flat but it was a heck of a workout. So there's a lot to be said for cherry picking cuts out of 2x12's in that regard :). The other thing I'd add is that for hand tool work the amount of total mass in the workbench is very much in your favor so heavier legs.. a beefy shelf under it.. etc.. all to the good. Some rubber pads under the feet don't hurt either.. and I'm also fond of mortise and tenon joinery, I used shop made cross dowels with bolts to pull those together tight so I could also break it down and potentially maneuver the thing if I had to (was glad to have that when I moved..). I have no cracks or seems from using construction lumber some 12+ years in .. it's fine. I also like that I can re-surface it in a few with a hand plane if it gets to groddy unlike plywood. I'm also fond of softer wood like pine for the bench top, yes it'll get dinged.. but hopefully IT gets dinged before what I actually care about that's setting on top of it does. The surface of the bench is, for me.. somewhat sacrificial.

I also have some other workbenches.. I really like one I made with 3/8" plywood assembled into a torsion box for an assembly table.. it's super flat and not overly heavy so it's nice to have. I abandoned a metal workbench I made out of some old gym flooring at my last house - never again.. the flooring has poor glue joins and a TON of nails.. just miserable to try to get it to go together and it never worked right. I've used the hardboard and stacked plywood tops as well in previous builds and they're certainly good for some uses. If I was building a metal working bench 3-4 layers of 3/4" plywood would be choice. For woodworking, just IMHO I like the functionality as well as the look and feel of solid wood.

Lastly I'd say the "ideal" bench really does depend a lot on what kind of work you do, and your workspace. So there's a lot of great options out there and certainly picking one isn't always straightforward. An intermediate choice that's kind of attractive would be to make as quick of a slap together bench as you can.. see what you don't like about it.. and then use it to help build one that's better.
 
This topic is so wide open. My last two workbenches have been two slabs of 3/4" BB ply and two slabs of 3/4" MDF all fully laminated. The result has been sag-proof, adequate to hold dogs and resilient as can be.
Circa 2010:
vise and dog holes (1).jpg
Circa 2015. A dacade of daily use and still hard at it.
TNNW (73).jpg
I gave the first bench to a friend of my father's after 10 years of hard use. I realized I needed a smaller footprint. As far as I know it is still in use.
 
Another consideration, and I think it was mentioned above. To make your bench a comfortable height, but also adjust tools like your table saw to be of the same height. Mostly will depend on the size of your shop, but it takes away some of the obstacles moving panels and wood around, and adds support using some of the tool tops.
 
One of the best benches I have was made with squared up construction lumber frame supporting two layers of 3/4" MDF t
Sounds very similar to the one I built when I started working in a friend's cabinet shop after I retired. I used 3/4" plywood x 2 topped by a sheet of MDF. It was simple, ugly as could be and 100% functional. Nice thing about using cheapo plywood and MDF is that you can cut, drill glue, do whatever you need to do to it to accommodate the job you're doing, then replace the top(s) when they've served the purpose.
 
I made mine with three layers of ¾" plywood for the top. It's 32"wide X 8' long. I ripped two sheets of plywood to 32" wide and used the two 16" cutoffs as the middle layer.

After 25 years of wear and tear, and being used for all sorts of wood, metal, and fiberglass work it's pretty beat up, but still flat and useable. It's about ten years old it the photo below.

View attachment 138105
Looks in really good shape after all these years. Are those 4" X 4" posts?
 
One of the best benches I have was made with squared up construction lumber frame supporting two layers of 3/4" MDF that sit in a rabbet in the top frame members. The MDF was only attached with a few screws around the perimeter so that if it were to get damaged it could be flipped over. If necessary the bottom layer of MDF can become the top. That bench stays right where you place it with the heavy frame and top. I have vises on the left front and right side. If I remember correctly this bench was in an issue of ShopNotes 20 or more years ago.

On a smaller finishing bench I used one layer of MDF that was rabbeted into the top frame. That rabbet was 1/4" deeper than the MDF so that I could place a layer of oil tempered hardboard that was attached to the MDF with a few brads around the perimeter. That tempered hardboard has lasted many years without the need for replacement and takes all the abuse I have given it with a smile.

One of the most important considerations for a bench is that it sits level and does not rock.
What did you use for the frame and posts?
 
Hi Jay, welcome to the forum and congratulations on your retirement.

I’d have the same question as Bill. What is the general purpose and type of work you need it for? Any particular style you’re wanting to go with?

Lots of options, build styles, and budget busters to consider. ;)
I'm not too concerned with the $$$. It will be 12' long. I am including a rotating bed for my radial arm saw. I will also have six drawers for small tools etc...
 
Welcome Jay,

The design posted above should be fine for you. As projects get bigger and heavier, you may want to build something bigger and heavier (I seem to over build my workbenches, but they never have failed on me.

Here are a few ideas for how I make solid, minimal cost work benches, but I don't think I have ever built two the same way.

Design #1

Construction lumber (2 X 6, 8, etc) will make a good solid top, but with wide cracks at the seams that will open up as the wood dries and ages, even if you butt them tightly together when the wood is still new and relatively green. When they dry enough to become a problem, adding a sheet of tempered hard board (once called Masonite) to the bench top will give you a smooth, gap free, and very flat and hard surface to work on, that can be replaced when it finally begins to show serious wear.

Design #2

Another good solid top that won't have gaps is two, or maybe three layers of 3/4" void free plywood (or at least the top layer), later also with the tempered hard board added as the soft plywood surface needs freshening. Some double sided tape, like carpet tape, in small areas between the plywood layers and hard board layer will hold the tempered hard board and the lower layers in place, yet still be removeable when the day comes to replace the hard board (just pry slowly to get the tape to release). Machine shops use a double sided tape with much higher bonding properties that you might want, but the carpet tape bonding has always worked well for me in situations like this. Both pieces need to be flat and not warped though, as the spring of the warp will pull the tape bonding apart.

The frame of construction lumber will work well if you build it heavy enough, but I build the legs out of a 2X4 and a 2X6 attached together to form an L to make each leg in the way that makes each side the same approximate dimension and attach them to the table frame with largish bolts, washers, and nuts so they can be retightened as needed to remove wobble, and then removed when it comes time to move the workbench (to the next bigger workshop, maybe?). I did use a solid and thick conference room door for a workbench top, with construction lumber frame below. It had the most beautiful top of any workbench that I've ever had as the top and back veneer layer was mahogany. It was too good to pound on, but cheaper, smoother, and flatter than any other workbench than I ever built. The door came from a Habitat Store and it had been in their rack for years without being sold, so marked down again and again, until it became the best price for me to build a workbench from. They seemed to be very pleased to see it gone.

I always like my workbenches to have a top surface that matches or is slightly below my table saw, so "really big" pieces can be moved over the bench as it's being fed into the table saw. In fact, anything in the central area around the table saw needs to be this level. So make certain that your table saw is a comfortable height before attempting to build any other shop furniture that might need something slid across it as it's being fed to the table saw. Benches, tools, etc. along the walls or at least out of the reach of 4 X 8 sheet stock as it's being cut on the table saw can be any height desired, except remember that
long stock being cut on a radial arm saw or miter saw is going to require a long row of benches at the same height as the table of the saw.

So this height problem is a bit more complicated than you were probably expecting. My best suggestion is to make certain that your table saw, likely in the center of your shop, is at a comfortable height for you. Tall and shorter people have different comfort zones, so work to what is most comfortable for those who will likely use the table saw, Then everything else within a sheet of plywood + is at or just slightly below your chosen table saw height.

My Delta Unisaw, located in roughly the center of my shop, was built at a height that works well with my 5'8" height, so I started with it and worked from there. I don't think I have ever actually measured it, but it's been perfect for me and how I do my work.

Charley
Thanks for all of that info Charley. I had not considered a top with face up lumber because of the gap issue. The hardwood solves that issue.
 
Looks in really good shape after all these years. Are those 4" X 4" posts?
Yes, they're Douglas Fir 4X4s with ¾" plywood panels between them and a one-piece ¾" MDF back panel. It's still rock solid after all these years, and two cross-country moves. BTW, I've drilled dog holes in the benchtop adjacent the vises, and have also put several threaded inserts into it to hold various jigs, etc.

It's never been 'babied.' It's a workhorse, and has suited me well.
I'm guessing that, with the drawers full of tools and supplies I'd guess it weighs about 500 pounds.
 
What did you use for the frame and posts?
I used Southern yellow pine for all of the wood in this bench. I had to go to the lumber yard and Lowe's many times to find really good pieces of construction grade material that were straight and relatively knot free. That was quite a task since I was using pine. I stacked it in my shop with stickers between the layers until it was a little dryer than when I bought it.

I cut down 2x4's until they were 3" wide. Then I laminated them together to form the 3" square corner posts/legs. The legs had a tenon formed on the bottom that fit into a horizontal foot with a pad under it at the front and the back. The legs were attached with a draw bored dowel.

For the lower framework I used 2x6's with tenons that were through mortised into the legs to support a lower shelf. This framework was draw bored to the legs.

I also used 2x6's that were rabbeted to accommodate the top. There were cross members under the top ripped from 2x6's that were through mortised into the horizontals connecting the posts/legs. They were ripped to a width that matched the 2x6's that were rabbeted. There was a tool tray running the length of the bench at the back. It was constructed separately and was hung off the top of the bench with 3 or 4 lag screws.

All of the mortised members were draw bored so that the assembly was really tight when everything was put together. I did use glue at all joints. No glue was used for the top since I wanted to be able to flip the MDF if it became necessary. The bench was 30" deep and 72" long. It is very heavy.

I finished it with multiple coats of Waterlox. I put no finish on the MDF.
 
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