Cheating a little for a segmented bowl

allen levine

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new york city burbs
I haven't touched my lathe for any projects
In I don't recall how many years
Maybe I made a wine bottle stopper few years back
I'm certain now that we are looking to move within 2 years the lathe isn't coming with me so I wanted to give it one more segmented bowl
This is like segmenting for dummies
I make odd number of pieces on rings and only glue up half ring
Then I will lay flat end of ring against fence and trim a hair off so glue up of ring is gap free
No matter how much I adjust the incra I always seem to be off just enough to annoy myself
18 pieces in each ring
A simple design
I hope it comes out ok
This will most likely be the last project I do on lathe
I'm going to sell it as one complete deal all tools all sets all anything lathe related
Just have to clean it up and get it all together
No rush it isn't going anywhere
 

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Here's a pic of how no matter how much I tweak the incra 5000 I'm off just a tad on the complete ring
18 pieces leaves a lot of room for error
I do my cheat run thru table saw
Very slow and hold with 2 hands it may trim off a tiny bit but hey it works for me
Like the song says it's my bowl and I'll trim if I want to you would trim to if it happened to you
Anyway got all the rings glued up
Cut some round pieces for base
Not sure what I'll use
Scrounging around for any scraps I have without gluing up
2 and 1/8 Forstner bit to attach the chuck

I sure hope woodturners don't outcast me
This isn't my thing I'm trying

You can see the gap on first pic at bottom then after cheat cut
 

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Ran the rings through the drum sander
Took me longer to get the sander out and back in the shed then to sand down the rings
3 passes and all glued in gone left with smooth surface to glue
Then I used my sophisticated glue up system to put rings in place
And that's where I'm at
 

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Turned a bit just now
I noticed a piece of walnut didn't glue up perfect but I don't think gap will be noticed after some finish
I'll turn inside and finish outside when I have time
Doctor appts and babysitting welcome to my life
 

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turned most of the inside today, its coming out lopsided, one side is thicker then other, and its giving me a problem, turn too thin, its gone, dont turn enough, the thicker side wont be smooth.
Im guessing its caused by poor technique? maybe I turned 12 bowls in my life, never had this problem. I left it in chuck, dont know if that was the problem.....I rechucked it and started turning again...Ill leave it because its aggrevating and woodworking is supposed to be fun.
eaiser to slap a chunk of wood on and turn, this segmented stuff takes alot of time.
 
Dull tools and/or a sketchy attachment to the chuck are what can cause lopsidedness. Either that or bad spindle bearings, which I doubt is the case with your lathe. Also, when a piece is re-chucked it will often not be exactly centered, so it's necessary to re-true the outside and inside of the bowl.
 
A bowl should be completed in one session, not left to complete another day as wood is likely to move, although a segmented one should be less likely to move if wood moisture levels are 12% or less.
As already mentioned, if tools are not sharp and presented to stop hand bounce as it passes between end grain and cross grain or between differing wood species this can result in uneven cutting depth.
Truing up uneven cutting depth or tool bounce ridges is best done by shear scraping with sharp bowl gouge.
 
Lemme go back couple steps
If I chucked it up a bit off center it still would have turned true and round ?

then I would have created the problem of a thinner wall in one side then the other but all would have been same size
Is that correct?
 
Allen, just finish it as best you can, use an 80 grit gouge to try to take down the rough spots, sand it smooth and finish it and call it art. Let people try to figure out for them selves how you were able to achieve the different thickness on the walls. If someone ask just tell em it is you secret.
 
Lemme go back couple steps
If I chucked it up a bit off center it still would have turned true and round ?

then I would have created the problem of a thinner wall in one side then the other but all would have been same size
Is that correct?
To stand a reasonable chance of of constant wall thickness with concentric inner and outer walls you need to turn both inner and outer without releasing blank from from chuck,
In theory yes, if the inner and outer are not concentric then remounting blank offset with either inner or outer running true would give you a chance of truing up the other surface, but you will more than likely have to do it via shear scraping with a sharp HSS bowl gouge tracking on the rest so that you just remove the high points, I don't know what carbide tips you are using or tool configuration but I suspect it would be difficult to match a HSS tool performance with it.
A carbide tool used in 'boring' mode on inner or outer would also remove high points.
Either way they are initially going to be significant interrupted cuts.

If you can, with care, just true up the rim area wall area for the first inch it would give the optical illusion that all is well.
 
I tried to carefully sheer down the inside just enough to get rid of glue marks and make all smooth
It's not the shape I hoped for on outside but fear my lack of wood turning experience and talent might destroy the bowl
I need to put in the curved tool rest and I'm going to carve out the walnut center inside a bit more to make it even and deeper
The rest I'll just use the sanding pads while spinning and try to shape it a bit better
This is where I'm at too hot today to continue
You can see different thickness in walls and the inside bottom needs more cutting
There's a high spot in inside wall I'll try to take it down a bit but will proceed carefully
I'd rather have a little mishape inside then cut thru wall and destroy it
 

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