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Cherry blossoms, OK - Cherry Blotching, not OK

Rennie Heuer

Rennie Heuer

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Constantine, MI
I am building a small box for a customer that insisted on cherry but wants a really dark finish. I tried a number of dyes (water and DNA based) and stains (solvent and water), and tinted danish oils, all yielding the predictable results - blotching. So, I went out and picked up some pre-stain conditioner and a fresh can of black cherry stain and gave it another try. Following the directions on the can very carefully I applied the conditioner, waited 30 min and applied the stain, again according to directions. The results were only marginally better still with significant blotching. I then tried an application of dewaxed shellac sealer under the stain. Much less blotching but also much less color. I have also tried sanding to different levels (180, 220, 320) before applying the stain knowing that can have an effect on absorption. Still not appreciable difference.

I know cherry is about the worst when it come to staining issues, but there must be a way to minimize the blotching that I just don't know about.

Help.
 
I'll give it a go. Take an ounce of your black cherry stain in a container, add two ounces of mineral spirits (assuming an oil based stain). Dampen (not soak) a pad and wipe the surface to color, wipe of the excess with a clean rag or paper towels; there shouldn't be much. This is like a sealer but, starts the color process as well.

Now the hard part; come back tomorrow. Lightly sand or wool the surface to remove nibs. Apply a coat of stain as usual. For me, with an oil stain that means pad everything till wet, wait 15 minutes and wipe off the excess. Additional applications will look like they are making things darker because they are wet but, pigment stains don't build color intensity like dye so, add more coats if you like but, I would just . . . Come back tomorrow.

Light sand or wool to clear nibs. To get an idea of the final color, pad or spray your top coat on. This is not a fast finish. I find that for me to get the oil finish I am after, it costs one precious thing; time. I try to stack up a bunch of low-effort tasks that need doing before I hit the finishing stage. By keeping myself busy, I fool myself into waiting as long as I should between steps :D.

P.s. The next time someone wants something really dark, nudge them to mahogany.

deb cab 1.jpg
 
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glenn bradley said:
I'll give it a go. Take an ounce of your black cherry stain in a container, add two ounces of mineral spirits (assuming an oil based stain). Dampen (not soak) a pad and wipe the surface to color, wipe of the excess with a clean rag or paper towels; there shouldn't be much. This is like a sealer but, starts the color process as well...

Now the hard part; come back tomorrow.:D.

P.s. The next time someone wants something really dark, nudge them to mahogany.

View attachment 106236
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OK - I'll give it a try. But...why the wait? Just a matter of allowing it to completely dry?

As for wood choice, this box is to hold a replica of the gavel used by George Washington. The choice of wood was obvious.
 
This may not be possible for everyone, but it works for me: My first step in finishing cherry is a suntan. I thin BLO 1/1 with naphtha. After laying the boards across saw horses, I wipe on the BLO mix pretty heavy, wait a few minutes, and start wiping it off. Every few minutes, I wipe again until no more oil is seeping out. It takes several hours to get the color I like and sometimes I'll give it a second day in the sun. It might look kinda blotchy at first, but gets smoother the more sun it gets.

I agree with Glenn about suggesting mahogany to the next client that wants something dark! I hate putting stain on cherry since I can get a great natural look going the suntan route.
 
OK - playing with the suntan method but that will take a few days (sun in Michigan is at a premium).

As for the diluted stain, the first application showed some promise, but the second, full strength application blotched severely.
IMG_3420.jpg

So far the best approach seems to be an application of dewaxed shellac (Sealcoat). Allow plenty of time to dry, lightly sand back with some 320, and then apply the stain full strength. That's the one on the left. The one on the right is stain over the conditioner.
IMG_3421.jpg
 
looks good rennie, there is a chemical solution to darken cherry as well ,, jim delaney used it i think its drain cleaner.. they showed it in Fine Woodworking not long ago
 
larry merlau said:
looks good rennie, there is a chemical solution to darken cherry as well ,, jim delaney used it i think its drain cleaner.. they showed it in Fine Woodworking not long ago
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Yeah - it's just a weak solution of lye (Sodium Hydroxide) in water. About a tablespoon of lye in a quart of water. It darkens cherry immediately. You then neutralize the lye with a 50/50 solution of vinegar and water. NOTE: THE LYE SOLUTION IS DANGEROUS TO USE. WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND RUBBER GLOVES, FOR SURE!
 
Jim DeLaney said:
Yeah - it's just a weak solution of lye (Sodium Hydroxide) in water. About a tablespoon of lye in a quart of water. It darkens cherry immediately. You then neutralize the lye with a 50/50 solution of vinegar and water. NOTE: THE LYE SOLUTION IS DANGEROUS TO USE. WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND RUBBER GLOVES, FOR SURE!
Click to expand...

Hmmm. Sounds intriguing, but dangerous. I'll hold this one in reserve. For now I am taking a two pronged approach. We are luck enough to be having a nice dose of sunshine today so I have put the pieces out in direct sun. I'll do it again tomorrow if the weather cooperates. After a nice tan I will likely use the seal coat at a 1 lb cut prior to staining.
 
I'll chime in with Jim. I hit Seal Coat out of the can 1:1 with DNA to make a general purpose sealer for around the shop. I hit that again 1:1 with DNA for a finishing sealer. I use it full strength as a finish.
 
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