Compact tractors

[Darren Wright]

Oh boy! I could get in so much trouble with a backhoe! Good job and that is crazy that a dealership would want the headaches/cost/liability of having your machine that long. Clearly like usual, it is a case of not what you know but WHO you know! I will assume you are feeling better since you got some seat time. I know it is a rural area, but don't be afraid to call the dig line, a recorded call with flags placed reduces your liability. Koi pond here you come!!!

It certainly has changed my mind about what I'll do when it comes time to get another or other equipment.

We've only got one buried utility, the phone cable. I'll certainly call when I dig around the main line. Not so worried about the one coming to the house, but will probably get it marked if I do any grading between the house and box by the road. I'm more worried about places that her grandpa buried electrical wire for fence chargers and such, but I think I know where all those are now or at least feel confident none are carrying any charge.

 

[Darren Wright]

That's a use for the edge tamers I hadn't considered, I was only thinking of the snow aspect. Good to know, thanks!

I'd certainly consider them, I think they worked really well.

I bought 3 and only put the two edge ones on. I'll most likely add the one if the middle if we get anymore snow. I had some areas I wanted to level a bit, so some blade was desired on this job to cut out some high spots

 

[Darren Wright]

Well, I ordered the Summit 4 SCV kit, a hydraulic top link (off amazon), and hose kit for the top link. Looking forward to using the box blade with that top link. Last time I did, I think I was on/off the tractor a dozen times changing the angle.

 

[Ryan Mooney]

the phone cable

I found a phone cable from the 50's or 60's last year while out digging. A locate wouldn't have found it because it was long abandoned. It did cause a wee bit of consternation trying to figure out just what it might have been for as the old direct bury lines were remarkably heavy duty with heavy copper shielding, etc..

Definitely looking forward to the report on the top link with the box blade. For "most" usages I never really changed the angle much, but it definitely depends on what you're doing.. You can get a lot by just feathering the thing up and down.

 

[David Johnson]

Watched ytube the other night. Saw a 6ft. land plane for road work in use. It really did a nice job. ( arms family farm.) He had just got it so it was new to him also but a nice job was accomplished.
David

 

[Darren Wright]

Definitely looking forward to the report on the top link with the box blade. For "most" usages I never really changed the angle much, but it definitely depends on what you're doing.. You can get a lot by just feathering the thing up and down.

This was the video that made me try adjusting the angles, world of difference in what you can do with a little adjustment.

 

[Ryan Mooney]

Yeah that does look fantastically handy for digging and large scale leveling. I was mostly doing light grading and some ripping (mostly turf removal) where you can just float it a bit. The top link adjustment would make doing something like pond digging a WHOLE lot easier though.

 

[Darren Wright]

Yes, exactly, but certainly do the adjustments manually. I have a lot of grading to do for the new shop pad, so will help get it done faster.

 

[fred hargis]

Darren, I see in the Friday post you're thinking about taking the hoe off the tractor. Thought I might mention what happened for me. The JD hoe mounts/dismounts much the same way as the one I have (Kubota). You've obviously thought of this, but it's the heaviest attachment you'll have...maybe as much as 800# or so, and once it's off it doesn't move easily. So you need to sit where it's not in the way, but also so you can get to it for hookup. The other thing that might happen (at least it did with mine) is the hydraulics might leak down. On mine the stabilizer's dropped and the boom shifted position which meant the hoe wasn't sitting high enough to fit in the hooks. I had to connect hydraulics and raise everything to install it. After all that, I found backing the tractor into the exact correct position was, well, tedious. So the first through 5th times I attached it required lots of bad language and time, once or twice it was a 60 minute procedure. All that was solved by something simple: a dolly to set it one. Once I had that, I could roll the hoe around in storage (not easily, but it can be done), and also roll it into position to hook to the tractor. I can put it on in about 15 minutes now, and taking it off is even easier. So here's a pic of my dolly....and those are actually HF castors. When liftng the back of the tractor up with the boom for attachment, the weight of everything is those under the bucket and they haven't failed yet. You may not have the problems I did, but it's something to think about. In the pic, the hoe isn't sitting they way it normally does. The control panel part is usually tilted way up, but you get the idea. Also, you see a ratchet strap across the stabilizer feet to keep them from falling. I put the traveler pin in the boom to keep it in place.

 

[Darren Wright]

That’s a great solution, Fred! I’ll have to look at making one up. My challenge is a smooth enough floor to roll on, the garage floor here was floated, but not smoothed out so well. I may have to try having it ground at some point, or just wait to build the new shop.

 

[fred hargis]

All my attachments but one (the grader) are on similar dollies, but the hoe is the heaviest. Having the stuff on whells allows me to crowd them all into one corner. Before the dollies I had to use the loader to pick them up and move around....worked well but was a PITA.

 

[Darren Wright]

Sounds like a great setup. I’ll have to do that when I get the shop or a machine shed built.

Just having some level ground to detach them on would be a big plus. Currently they are mostly on the fence line out back, which is a bit of a slope.

I have the carry-all (with my chainsaw, tools, and chains) sitting on a HF dolly in the garage to move around, but it’s tough to roll it far on that rough concrete.

 

[steve ramsey]

What about a small trailer/platform with wheel barrow or mower tires that would roll better.

 

[John Bartley]

Sounds like a great setup. I’ll have to do that when I get the shop or a machine shed built.

Just having some level ground to detach them on would be a big plus. Currently they are mostly on the fence line out back, which is a bit of a slope.

Same problem here. I was hoping to have a machine shed built last fall but the hydro was late getting installed and then winter came early and never left (you should see our snow here). At least the timbers and framing lumber are cut and ready, under cover for this spring. Even my dozer is sitting in place waiting for the thaw so that I can wash the (now) frozen clay off the undercarriage. I can't move it until it thaws.
My attachments are in a yard on gravel and level, but to keep them that way I set them on pallets, either built with sawmill rough limber or I salvage them from commercial (surplus/leftover)sources. Setting them on a pallet is not as good as being under cover on concrete, but it keeps them from sinking in the ground during the the spring thaw.
Cheers !!
BTW : nice looking backhoe !!

 

[Darren Wright]

The Summit kit, hydraulic fluid, and top link arrived today. I'm still waiting on a set of hoses for the top-link, hopefully those will ship later this week.


I'm surprised at the amount of assembly left to do on the Summit kit. The distribution block comes completely as parts to build, not what I was expecting, but is what it is. I'll be waiting out the soon to arrive snow/ice for a bit anyway.


The joystick control replaces the knob on the FEL control, I'll face the switches inward to control with my thumb most likely, but will have to play with the positioning.


The other two switches come mounted in a box to hang off a bar on the ROPS, but I have two empty switch slots on my right fender, so the plan is to put them there.

 

[Ryan Mooney]

I'm surprised at the amount of assembly left to do on the Summit kit.

Which makes me kind of wonder if there's a meaningful price delta for entirely DIY... I know they make a couple parts so you'd also be into a tap (BSPT or UN?).. and some parts for that. I've been about 50/50 on that working out. The hard part (which is largely worth paying for) is figuring the pieces needed.

I've been down this same road with a lot of homebrew equipment and haven't ever reached a solid conclusion..

 

[Darren Wright]

Which makes me kind of wonder if there's a meaningful price delta for entirely DIY... I know they make a couple parts so you'd also be into a tap (BSPT or UN?).. and some parts for that. I've been about 50/50 on that working out. The hard part (which is largely worth paying for) is figuring the pieces needed.

I've been down this same road with a lot of homebrew equipment and haven't ever reached a solid conclusion..

Well, it may be that, or the %5 off deal for Tractor Time with Tim with code TTWT, which saves you $50, but they don't assemble it if you use that code.

 

[Darren Wright]

Tim from tractor time did do an install with some guys on this solution he helped design and they went through the assembly. I ordered an inch/pound torque wrench and som Allen sockets to do the assembly…

 

[Darren Wright]

Well, it may be that, or the %5 off deal for Tractor Time with Tim with code TTWT, which saves you $50, but they don't assemble it if you use that code.

Tim did address the why it doesn’t come assembled in the video, because it would be $150 - $200 more for the kit.

However, I didn’t see assembly mentioned on the summit site and the pics only show an assembled valve.

I think they need to add the option to pay for assembly and disclose it’s not assembled if they want to avoid some unhappy customers, not everyone has the uncommon, common sense, about them to do the assembly.

 

[Darren Wright]

I recently just ordered a Laser Level/Transit kit. I was thinking about how I might be able to use a sensor to control one or more of my new electric valves using a laser sensor. I guess Tim had the same thought and he's found a solution. Honestly, the $2,400 (for the controller) is probably a very affordable system for smaller excavators and businesses compared to what one would cost from the larger companies...