Countertop Mod

[Ed Nelson]

What would you use to cut a countertop? I have a drop-in stove that is being replaced with a range/oven unit and the counter will need to be cut for the install. My biggest concern is the backsplash. I can use a jigsaw to get close to teh backsplash, but then what? Here is a real rough sketch of what I have.

 

[tod evans]

ed, if it`s a freestanding unit like you show (not mitered into another piece of countertop) it might be easier to remove the whole top and cut from the backside?.....if that`s not an option a sawsall with a fine tooth metal blade, or if you can find one locally a reverse tooth, cut close to your line and sand to fit with a beltsander.....tod

 

[Ed Nelson]

Thanks Todd,

I haven't had a chance to look at the project yet, but I have had this question come up before and I have puzzled over how to do it. The recip is probably the best idea.

By the way, where in the Ozarks are you? My folks live in Kimberling City.

Ed

 

[Ken Whitaker]

How a trim router using a template?

 

[Ed Nelson]

How a trim router using a template?

Not sure how I'd design a jig to take a router from the flat countertop to teh vertical backsplash. That would probably leave the best finish, but I can't figure out how to make the turn.

 

[Steve Clardy]

Jigsaw.

TAPE your cut line. This helps with chipout.
Dewalt also makes a reverse cut blade. It cuts down, not up.

Backsplash. Hand saw or recep saw.

If you can remove the whole thing, a skillsaw with wood guide clamped to it. Cut the backsplash first

 

[Ed Nelson]

Thanks Steve!

I was sorry to read about the troubles you have been dealing with. Hope you're close to operational again.

 

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Ed. First off, the range top manufacturer should have included the cut-out dimensions with the unit. Lacking those instructions, I would flip the top over and proceed to build a template that will fit around the underside of the unit. After having made the template, you have two choices. 1) double stick the template to the counter top and use a trim router to cut the hole. 2) Use the template to draw an outline of the hole. Then drill a hole at each corner and use your jig saw to cut the straight-line sides from hole to hole.

When I install an Elway stainless sink last winter, I spent a lot of time making a template for the sink underside. One of my considerations, like you, was the spacing to the back splash. I cut the width of the back edge of the template such that when it was pushed up to the back splash, the cutout was positioned properly. I used option 2 above.

The cutout doesn't need to be pretty, but it definitely needs to be the correct size.

 

[Steve Clardy]

Thanks Steve!

I was sorry to read about the troubles you have been dealing with. Hope you're close to operational again.

Thanks.

Trusses are up

 

[Frank Pellow]

Except for one time, a jig saw has always gotten close enough to the backsplash. I have a plastic thingy that fits around the blade of my saw to prevent chipping and it works very well.

That one time that I could not get close enough, I used hand saws -a drill then a keyhole saw to start the cut then a small crosscut saw for the bulk of the cut.

 

[Ed Nelson]

Thanks for the advice guys! I will be finding out exactly what I have to deal with tomorrow and will go from there. If I can remove the countertop without too much difficulty, this will be a breeze. If it is glued and screwed, I'll revisit some of the suggestions provided. It doesn't seem like it will be a big job.

 

[Ed Nelson]

Here is a better sketch of what I'm dealing with.

I'll need to trim about 3/8" from both sides of the opening and cut the opening back to the wall. I'll probably use the router as much as i can.

The big concern is the narrow strip on the right and keeping it stable. I was thinking using some galvanized pipe and bolting it to the floor and countertop inside that section. What do you guys think?

 

[Steve Clardy]

How do you plan on fastening the pipe Ed?

 

[Chris Barton]

Jig saw and tape. That's all you need.

 

[Norman Hitt]

How do you plan on fastening the pipe Ed?

My guess is that he would be using those flanges you screw onto each end of the pipe, and have countersunk holes in the flange to screw to the floor and top. If that is what he will be using, they normally work pretty well, depending on what type of flooring is there, and especially if the long screws might hit into a floor joist.

 

[Ed Nelson]

How do you plan on fastening the pipe Ed?

I was just going to use pipe flanges. Provides a pretty rigid post.

 

[Ed Nelson]

My guess is that he would be using those flanges you screw onto each end of the pipe, and have countersunk holes in the flange to screw to the floor and top. If that is what he will be using, they normally work pretty well, depending on what type of flooring is there, and especially if the long screws might hit into a floor joist.

You got it Norman. The last post I made was supposed to be submitted last night, but I forgot to hit post LOML was rushing me to a party at the SIL's

 

[Norman Hitt]

You got it Norman. The last post I made was supposed to be submitted last night, but I forgot to hit post LOML was rushing me to a party at the SIL's

I Hate When That Happens.