Electrical Plugs, not just funny faces.

[Darren Wright]

I don't have a lot of 220v woodworking tools in my shop. almost all are wired for 110v except the new dust collector. It's using the Nema 6-15 plug with the squinty little eyes. The compressor is onthe Nema 6-30LP or LR twist style (don't recall the exact one since I bough the plug and socket at the same time to make sure they worked together). The CNC is using an L14-30 since it has basically a little sub-panel and need neutral as well as ground.

The previous owner had wired a few plugs to 220v using basic Nema 5-15p wall outlets. I had one casualty with them, a charger that didn't appreciate his lack of labeling and negligence. I've since completely rewired the shop and replaced the sub-panel to prevent further occurances.

Just curious what others are using and why? Any safety issues with one type of plug over another for 220v (as far as the ones rated/designed for it)?

I'm considering moving my old dc to 220v and maybe my table saw to cut down on the draw of amperage. They are wired for 20 amps, but I've had one breaker go bad for the DC and thinking 220v may help keep that from happening. Both are located next to the panel, so swapping them out will only take a few minutes to add the new circuits and re-wire the motors.

For reference...

 

[Vaughn McMillan]

When I got 220v power set up in my shop in LA, I ordered the sockets and plugs I needed from an eBay seller. Even though I only needed 3 conductor plugs and sockets, I found a great deal on 4 conductor twist-locks so I bought them. (I think they are the L14-20 configuration.) When I set up my shop here in NM, I priced new 3 conductor twist-lock plugs and sockets. In the end, it was less expensive to just have my electrician install the L14-20 sockets than to buy new sockets and plugs. My tablesaw, band saw, lathe, and vacuum pump all have the 4 conductor plugs. My compressor requires a 40 amp dedicated circuit, so it's hardwired.

 

[Don Baer]

I went with the L14-30, I only have 2 in the shop. That's what I put in when I wired it 13 years ago. My emergency generator had them and I wanted to keep everything the same, Even the CNC is on one, although it would be fine with a 20 amp, that what the service in the shop is set up and I didn't want to have to run a separate circuit.

 

[Ryan Mooney]

For 240v I'm using all L6-30 and L6-20 plugs because I like the locking feature. You're unlikely to have a loose/exposed connection with them.

If I needed the neutral I'd use the appropriate L14-XX plug for most uses unless it was an appliance specific outlet (like a stove or drier that has a task specific plug). I don't think there's a significant downside to L14 plugs vs the L6, excepting that to be code compliant you'd need to run four wires in wall instead of 3 so plain old 3 wire romex is out (all of my 240v 30a and 20a circuits are wire on 10 gauge romex.. excepting the one in the shed which is a conduit run). I could definitely see if you had some mixed voltage machines (like a CNC with a 120v control/computer hookup) that having L14-X would be an advantage there just for flexibility.

I'll tentatively agree with Vaughn that there is a lot of value in consistency as well. A bunch of mix & match is a pain (excepting different amperage requirements - I explicitely put my lathe on a 20a outlet so if it over voltaged it would hopefully blow the breaker before it blew up to much of the lathe.. perhaps a faint hope hah).

I could see for something like a welder where you might want to be able to disconnect quickly the straight 6-50/6-30 might be advantageous.

 

[Bill Arnold]

When I built my shop, i solved any issue with 220 plugs by direct-wiring my table saw, DC, and air compressor. The only 220 I installed with a socket was for an A/C and it was L6-20.

 

[Ryan Mooney]

direct-wiring my table saw, DC, and air compressor

I'm probably overly paranoid.. but I go out and physically disconnect equipment if I'm going on vacatio or it looks like there might be thunderstorms. If I had a physical disconnect that might also suffice, but that does leave the ground connected still... If I was in a less thunderstorm prone area I'd be less concerned about it.

 

[Bill Arnold]

I'm probably overly paranoid.. but I go out and physically disconnect equipment if I'm going on vacatio or it looks like there might be thunderstorms. ...

The only thing I turn off when away for any length of time is my air compressor. I flip the switch on the compressor off, turn the valve to my air lines off and still have full pressure in the tank when I return. I've never had a problem with lightning, including a direct hit on a tree in front of my shop that was no more than ten feet from the underground feed to my shop.

 

[David Johnson]

Having an electrician in to evaluate my system. Some time ago ts kept blowing circuit breaker in switch, of course when he showed up it worked fine yesterday it started again. It is wired to 110 v and on dedicated breaker. He said maybe convert back to 220 v and re do breaker system. Old house and just have 40 amp feeding into shop. May have to break down and run a larger wire to shop. Have to see what his idea is going to be. Have an order of cheese boards to complete.
David

 

[fred hargis]

My 120V are all 20 amp and have the 5-20R outlets. But for 240V I have a mix. They are mostly 20 amp 6-20R, but I do have one 20 amp in the ceiling and it's the locking outlet. Then I have a handful of 30 amp and they are all locking outlets. Like Ryan, I unplug some tools when T-Storms threaten; mostly the ones that have some electronics in them (drum sander, lathe, DC, and TS).

 

[Darren Wright]

Having an electrician in to evaluate my system.

I've had a few breakers go bad, on with the table saw, which is why I'm considering changing it to 220v. But new breakers are cheap if that isn't an option.

 

[Ryan Mooney]

Some time ago ts kept blowing circuit breaker in switch, of course when he showed up it worked fine yesterday it started again

Could be a loose wire somewhere, especially if it follows some temperature fluctuation up or down. My general practice on that sort of thing is to start at the breaker and work out tightening and checking all the connections. It's also possible that it's a dodgy breaker but I'd check the connections there & at the outlet(s) first just to be double sure. There's also some small odds there's actually something wrong (shorting) in the saw... that's trickier to debug.