My shop is small, but most of my tools are Pro level and big. Breaking down full size sheets in my shop is next to impossible, so I break down my sheet stock into slightly oversize pieces outdoors in my driveway using straight edges and circular saws, then bring the pieces into the shop for final sizing.
I made a table from a set of Banquet Table Legs, some 2X4 and 1X4 pine. It's an edge frame made from the 1X4 standing on edge. The size can vary, but it works best if about 3/4 the size of 4 X 8 sheet stock. Mine is about 34" wide and 6'6" long. I joined the corners of the frame with biscuits and glue. Then, when the glue is dry I added corner bracing made from 1 X 4 pine and biscuit joined, again flush with the top edge of the 1X4 frame. Again, Flush with the top edge of the frame I added 2X4 cross pieces, one in the center, and then two spaced apart and a few inches in from the end of the table frame, where the table leg assemblies will need to attach. All were glued in place with exterior wood glue. No metal in this table, except for the leg assemblies and the short screws needed to attach them to the 2X4 cross pieces. So the top surface of this frame table has no metal in it, so no blade contact is possible, if you set the blade to cut 1/4-1/2" below the bottom surface of any sheet stock that you will be cutting.
In storage, this table frame lies on edge against my other panel stock, leaning against the end wall of my shop. It's reasonably light, so can be transported easily. When I need to use it, I take it out in my driveway and open the legs (which when closed, fit inside the 1X4 table frame), and I stand it up on it's legs. For breaking full sheets I place one on the top of the table, roughly weight centered on the table. I use 4' and 8' long straight edge clamps to position and make the cuts needed, with the blade depth of cut just 1/4-1/2" deeper than the panel thickness, and the saw being slid along the straight edge clamp. Since most cutting will be kind-of down the table center, both pieces of the sheet remain on the table as the cut is completed. No broken or splintered ends.
After each cut is completed, I remove the smaller piece, re-center the remaining sheet on the table, and prepare to make the next cut, following the same procedure for each subsequent cut. I have never worried about the blade cuts into the top edge of the table frame. If the table ever gets cut up so much that I want better, I'll just make a new table frame and transfer the leg assemblies to it.
I also found that placing a small piece of plywood attached to the center 2X4 and near to desired work edge of the table made a perfect place for my chop saw, for cutting molding, baseboard, and other long stock to size. Sufficient space is left behind the saw to hold stock to be cut, and when I cut each piece, I mark the back side of the cut piece to note where it is to be positioned when installed shortly later. Scrap, saw dust, etc. falls through the open table surface, to be cleaned up later.
I made an addition to this table design a few years after building it. I added two scrap pieces of plywood about 4" X 8" to one side of the table frame, spaced about 3' apart, and attached with one bolt and lock nut. These were attached off center, so that when turned one way they extend well above the table top surface. When rotated 180 deg, their edge is at or below the top edge of the table frame.
In use, I rotate these until they extend above the table frame, then tip the table over, so that these pieces are on the driveway. Then I place my sheet stock on these plywood pieces and against the table top. I then reach down between these plywood pieces and pick up both the table and the sheet at the same time. When the table is again on it's legs, the sheet is lying flat on it. I turn the pieces of plywood 180 deg and they are again flush with the table frame top edge, and I can re-position the sheet to ready it for the next cut.
This is a far better way to break down sheet stock. There is very little waste if you plan the cuts well, and even old and partially handicapped woodworkers can handle and manage sheet break downs using this method. My cutting table has all but completely replaced my saw horses. If the saw kerfs in the top ever become a problem, I'll just make another and move the legs to the new table top frame.
I also made a version of a Zero Clearance Insert to add to my circular saw. The blade only chips the sheet where the blade teeth rise up through the sheet, lifting and splintering the top surface of the sheet. This is just a scrap of Lexan large enough to cover the bottom of the saw. I cut a rectangular hole in it to allow clearance for the blade guard to operate properly. Then attached this insert via holes and flat head bolts and nuts to the foot of the circular saw, making certain that the blade guard can move freely. A careful slow plunge cut to the saw's full depth and back will make the blade slot cut. The edge of this piece of Lexan and/or the edge of the saw shoe need to be even with each other when attached, because that is the edge of both that will need to slide along the straight edge for the cuts.
I have a scrap piece of plywood that I made into a gauge (not pictured) that is the exact space width between the straight edge and the blade. I use this to offset the straight edge for the cuts to end up exactly where desired. It saves a lot of measuring and mistakes. I added a large round drawer knob to it's center, to make it easier to pick up and position. I usually try to get my rough cut blanks within 1/4" of the desired dimension, but have been careful and managed final cut dimensions a few times when I didn't have enough material for rough cuts, and I was successful. It just takes longer and only one chance. The slightly oversize, to be finish cut later on my Unisaw, is the preferred method.
Edit I bought the Banquet Table Legs from Northern, but Harbor Freight has them too.
Charley
