Guest cabin

Roller compaction but not wetted first?
Sounds like the back 3 footers will go in first on solid soil, then he'll dig down to the footer to the front wall as he's using the skid steer to move the concrete to the forms on those first 3 to save some money and not use a pumper for them..
Make double sure that drainage is going to work for you. You don’t need to have to deal with it on down the road.
Yeah, both are where I was expecting them to be. These are mostly for getting under the footings, the plumber will come next week to get the actual lines in where they need to be for the kitchenette, bath, and mechanical room.

Edit: The back wall is a retaining wall about 48” tall, which will help with rolling any water out and around the building. The wall will be about 1 1/2’ above the current slope and we’ll fill it to slope away. He’s keying the wall into the footing to prevent any leakage too, along with proper drain tile and fill.
 
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Are you doing the framing and such? Or are you hiring that out?
I'm (we are) hiring it out. ;) My wife can't wait that long to get it done. :rolleyes: Probably wise on her part. Also hiring out the insulation, which might be spray foamed.

I'll be doing the interior (electrical, plumbing, drywall, and finishes...and maybe the decking. Most likely just buying pre-built cabinets for the kitchenette and vanity since I don't have all my woodworking tools here yet.
 
They came out today and stripped forms off the footers and started forming walls. He had a dr appt, this is it for a couple of days as the snow is flying now.
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He did run out of concrete, but that footer has just the slab on it, so will fill it as part of the slab.
That looks like a nice location Darren. From the pictures, there also appears to be enough room on the uphill side to create a slight reverse slope, to allow surface drainage away from the building and around each end.
 
That looks like a nice location Darren. From the pictures, there also appears to be enough room on the uphill side to create a slight reverse slope, to allow surface drainage away from the building and around each end.
Thanks Peter. Yeah, the back wall should be higher than the current slope to level and drain away.

It’s been in the 30s here, so don’t expect to see them back for a day or two more. I got the missing ridge cap and extra trim picked up, so hopefully they have all they need.
 
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That’s progress.

First good view I’ve had of that old barn. It’s a beauty! Looks very square and plumb from here and the roof is saving it.
So Grandpa mentioned today that he thinks the barn was built about 1903 according to county records. We originally thought it was built in 1919 as there is a license plate nailed to the beam inside and the main house was built in 1921.
 
So Grandpa mentioned today that he thinks the barn was built about 1903 according to county records. We originally thought it was built in 1919 as there is a license plate nailed to the beam inside and the main house was built in 1921.
120 years! A good run and still standing tall by the looks of it.
Rural wisdom around here states that the second most important thing in keeping old buildings standing, after a good roof, is keeping them closed up with doors secured and wind damaged cladding repaired. Old barns that have gone down in hurricanes or winter storms have often had big doors open or maybe an end permanently opened up so cattle can run in.
 
120 years! A good run and still standing tall by the looks of it.
Rural wisdom around here states that the second most important thing in keeping old buildings standing, after a good roof, is keeping them closed up with doors secured and wind damaged cladding repaired. Old barns that have gone down in hurricanes or winter storms have often had big doors open or maybe an end permanently opened up so cattle can run in.
Yup, it's probably a universal truth that in order to keep a farm building standing, you have to do the above, and ..... keep it's feet dry. Plenty of good solid buildings have been lost simply due to slow collapse from the ground up. That's what happened to the hand-hewn, timber frame 100+ year old barn on my dad's farm. The people ahead of us simply left old wet hay in the barn without ever cleaning it all out to let the floors and sill beams dry regularly. Ultimately the sills rotted away and the barn started to spread at the bottom.
 
Concrete guys were back today. They wanted to bring in a pumper to do the walls, but he doesn’t think they can get the pumper in the driveway and there are too many trees along the road. We decided we’d regrade the hill a bit and put down 2” gravel so the concrete truck can back up to pour. Since he had the dump truck bringing gravel for that, I hired him to go ahead and put down 2” base for the whole drive.
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Once it gets packed down by all the construction traffic I’ll have him come back and cover it with 1” gravel. I need to also regrade in front of the garage and will plan on some concrete pads there when we can move the trailers.

Btw…$2500 for the pumper truck vs $350 for the gravel and regrading of the hill. We’ll scrape the grave down to the parking area later and reseed the hill.
 
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