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Where do you get these and what are they called?
Nevermind - found them!!
Nevermind - found them!!
Headboard, Nightstand, Pier Project
- Thread starter glenn bradley
- Start date
glenn bradley
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Here's where we are so far.
. 
LOML is dying to get rid of the TV tray as a night stand.
. LOML is dying to get rid of the TV tray as a night stand.
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glenn bradley
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I only needed the lower part and so ordered from Hardware Hut.
Hafele America Co. 404-20-139 - Hafele 35mm Press-Fit Bottom Guide - EACH (Brown) | Hardware Hut
Hafele 35mm Press-Fit Bottom Guide - EACH (Brown)
hardwarehut.com
Toni Ciuraneta
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I've made several projects with Sapele wood and it is a wood that I love and hate the same time. The fact that the grain is changing direction every half and inch or so, always makes me hate it whe working with it, although when the whole piece is finished I like it very much.
glenn bradley
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The long and winding tale . . . I rip some more frame material at the bandsaw.
I have shown these before but I find it helpful to take blown up screen shots of smaller details when turning blanks into final dimensioned parts; my memory is not what it once was. This is also helpful for joinery dimensions.
After the oversize blank breakdown it is milling as usual.
I do a lot of dry fitting at this stage because I tend to measure parts off the assembly as opposed to off the plans.
I need a lot of frame parts for this piece. A board that suits my color requirement is a bit longer than I have room for. I planned the shop for a maximum of workspace as opposed to a more specific tool clearance. A couple of times a year this doesn't work out. The rest of the year I enjoy all the room I have to work in
. the fit in this case is close enough that I remove one of my grinding wheel rests.
This lets me lay in this board.
and clear the blade by this much.
End result is I get the cut I am after.
I then break down those blanks and mill them square.
As long as you end up square and true, life is good.
I am going to knock off for now and pick it up in the morning.
I have shown these before but I find it helpful to take blown up screen shots of smaller details when turning blanks into final dimensioned parts; my memory is not what it once was. This is also helpful for joinery dimensions.
After the oversize blank breakdown it is milling as usual.
I do a lot of dry fitting at this stage because I tend to measure parts off the assembly as opposed to off the plans.
I need a lot of frame parts for this piece. A board that suits my color requirement is a bit longer than I have room for. I planned the shop for a maximum of workspace as opposed to a more specific tool clearance. A couple of times a year this doesn't work out. The rest of the year I enjoy all the room I have to work in
. the fit in this case is close enough that I remove one of my grinding wheel rests.This lets me lay in this board.
and clear the blade by this much.
End result is I get the cut I am after.
I then break down those blanks and mill them square.
As long as you end up square and true, life is good.
I am going to knock off for now and pick it up in the morning.
glenn bradley
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I keep getting surprised by how many parts and steps are involved in this thing.
I started getting lost so I built a quick spreadsheet to list components and their status.
Years ago I standardized on 4 bin sizes for my storage; a 58 quart bin from Wal Mart, the bin shown below from Costco, a shoe box sized bin from Home Depot and Plano tackle boxes from wherever Plano is sold. The Costco bins let me gather small accessory items together in a place where I know they will be when I want them. In this case the Bosch Jig Saw and Domino flotsam and jetsam end up together.
It may seem odd but it works. the Domino table comes with a variety of doo-dads as does the 1591 jig saw that I love so much. They all live here.
I lay out the face frame parts and arrange as intended. This is my chance to make any last minute position changes before joinery commences.
I then flip the assembly so I can mark it from the rear. The reason for this is that the front face is the reference face and when using the table the reference face is rested on the table surface.
Granpa's old cross peen hammer is used as a micro-adjustment tools to position parts just where I want them. I then mark for the domino mortises.
Again surprised by how may parts are in this thing . . . I haven't even started the drawer carcass yet.
I do a dry run before glue up. I find this reduces my blood pressure during glue up. This is where you find out all those pesky little details that cause you grief when wet glue is in play like removing the little red clamp pad so that the clamp jaw fits under the table raising mechanism on this table.
The face frames are glued and in the clamps which looks just like the dry run pic above. While these are setting up I will start grooving the side frames to accept the raised panels.
I started getting lost so I built a quick spreadsheet to list components and their status.
Years ago I standardized on 4 bin sizes for my storage; a 58 quart bin from Wal Mart, the bin shown below from Costco, a shoe box sized bin from Home Depot and Plano tackle boxes from wherever Plano is sold. The Costco bins let me gather small accessory items together in a place where I know they will be when I want them. In this case the Bosch Jig Saw and Domino flotsam and jetsam end up together.
It may seem odd but it works. the Domino table comes with a variety of doo-dads as does the 1591 jig saw that I love so much. They all live here.
I lay out the face frame parts and arrange as intended. This is my chance to make any last minute position changes before joinery commences.
I then flip the assembly so I can mark it from the rear. The reason for this is that the front face is the reference face and when using the table the reference face is rested on the table surface.
Granpa's old cross peen hammer is used as a micro-adjustment tools to position parts just where I want them. I then mark for the domino mortises.
Again surprised by how may parts are in this thing . . . I haven't even started the drawer carcass yet.
I do a dry run before glue up. I find this reduces my blood pressure during glue up. This is where you find out all those pesky little details that cause you grief when wet glue is in play like removing the little red clamp pad so that the clamp jaw fits under the table raising mechanism on this table.
The face frames are glued and in the clamps which looks just like the dry run pic above. While these are setting up I will start grooving the side frames to accept the raised panels.
glenn bradley
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We all tend to recommend those things that work for us. Just because they work for us does not mean they are for everyone. The Grr-Ripper has been a part of how I think about and perform operations for many years. Sorry if I sound like an info-mmercial for them. They excel at handling small parts, especially multiple operations with small parts. Here I am cutting the grooves in the rails for the frame and panel sides of this piece.
For the longer stiles I place witness marks at the start and stop points for the stopped grooves.
I plunge the cut at one mark . . .
. . . and cut the groove till the next mark.
And there we go.
I started early today and after these many repeated operations I think I am done for today. Tomorrow is "resawing-the-floating-panels" day.
For the longer stiles I place witness marks at the start and stop points for the stopped grooves.
I plunge the cut at one mark . . .
. . . and cut the groove till the next mark.
And there we go.
I started early today and after these many repeated operations I think I am done for today. Tomorrow is "resawing-the-floating-panels" day.
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Love my gripper, tend not to make good use of all of its capabilities. Need to work on that.
Robert Horky
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My grippers have lost their 'stick' on the green pads. They are hard and tend to slip. Any way to refresh?
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Replacement parts available on Amazon. Recently had to replace mine as they too often fell victim to my not judging their distance from the saw blade accurately.
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Before you replace them, scrub the pads with laundry detergent, a stiff bristle brush, and water. Then rinse thoroughly. I think will find that your Grrippers will work like new again.
Charley
Charley
glenn bradley
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Ruler stops; ya gotta love ruler stops. Unfortunately the most useful I have found were offered by Garrett-Wade back in the day and do not appear to be currently offered. There are some big clunky versions from several vendors currently available. These help me set the mid-rail position accurately by referencing off the stop and the end of the rule.
Time to resaw out some floating panels from this 8/4 x 11"+ x 10' board.
I use my jig saw to break these down to more manageable sizes.
The planer sled comes into service again.
Resawing this 11"+ wide board is at about the limit of my bandsaw.
I can pull three panels from the 8/4 thickness of these blanks.
Due to the resaw pattern I yield a center piece with a book-matched piece on each side. Now I get to pick who goes where in the grand scheme of things.
One of the anomalies of sepele is the reversing grain. The cross pattern (?) is one that can be a problem at times.
Sometimes this cross-pattern (I do not know the formal term) can be open and require filling or avoiding.
Once I am happy with who goes where I can cross cut things to length.
These shop-made flip-stop blocks are milled square. Even so when I am doing final dimensional work I check and re-check things.
Once the long section is cross cut I flip the true edge to the stop and cut the shorter piece to length.
I mark each of these to keep the sections together as I continue to break things down.
The next phase will be ripping to width and profiling the panels.
Time to resaw out some floating panels from this 8/4 x 11"+ x 10' board.
I use my jig saw to break these down to more manageable sizes.
The planer sled comes into service again.
Resawing this 11"+ wide board is at about the limit of my bandsaw.
I can pull three panels from the 8/4 thickness of these blanks.
Due to the resaw pattern I yield a center piece with a book-matched piece on each side. Now I get to pick who goes where in the grand scheme of things.
One of the anomalies of sepele is the reversing grain. The cross pattern (?) is one that can be a problem at times.
Sometimes this cross-pattern (I do not know the formal term) can be open and require filling or avoiding.
Once I am happy with who goes where I can cross cut things to length.
These shop-made flip-stop blocks are milled square. Even so when I am doing final dimensional work I check and re-check things.
Once the long section is cross cut I flip the true edge to the stop and cut the shorter piece to length.
I mark each of these to keep the sections together as I continue to break things down.
The next phase will be ripping to width and profiling the panels.
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Robert Horky
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Charles .... thanks ... I'll give this a try for sure..... stay tuned.
glenn bradley
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Glad to finally be getting my energy back. I got in a couple hours before breakfast this morning. Your typical cabinet maker's marking triangle helps me keep things re-aligned after milling.
I usually like to raise my panels by hand (it's one of the few things I can do decently by hand) but there are a lot of panels in this piece and I am getting behind. I will use the tablesaw to remove the bulk of the waste. I use some scrap from the ripping-to-width process to confirm I am getting the angle, width-of-raise, and thickness of edge I am after.
You have all seen this tall fence rig I built years ago. It acts as everything from a tall router table fence to a raised panel jig it seems.
Anyway, I end up here. These will all see some love from the hand planes before they get pre-finished. We all know to pre-finish our floating panels so that seasonal changes don't create a peek-a-boo exposure of unfinished wood when things shrink in the winter.
Here's the general look of one of the side panels.
My tummy says it is time for breakfast so I'm gonna go do that.
I usually like to raise my panels by hand (it's one of the few things I can do decently by hand
) but there are a lot of panels in this piece and I am getting behind. I will use the tablesaw to remove the bulk of the waste. I use some scrap from the ripping-to-width process to confirm I am getting the angle, width-of-raise, and thickness of edge I am after.You have all seen this tall fence rig I built years ago. It acts as everything from a tall router table fence to a raised panel jig it seems.
Anyway, I end up here. These will all see some love from the hand planes before they get pre-finished. We all know to pre-finish our floating panels so that seasonal changes don't create a peek-a-boo exposure of unfinished wood when things shrink in the winter.
Here's the general look of one of the side panels.
My tummy says it is time for breakfast so I'm gonna go do that.
glenn bradley
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I found that gang-clamping these panels together with a bowed caul let me plane the bevels all together for consistency.
Some sanding is required here and there and I thought I would show that I pre-cut a bunch of grits to size for my sanding blocks. That way when I am in full-throttle mode I can just grab a few sheets out of the drawer.
Anyway . . . here is the base color coat on several of the panels that will be used.
.
This is a good place to stop and let the finish cure for a while. We planned to start setting up Christmas decorations today so it all works out.
Some sanding is required here and there and I thought I would show that I pre-cut a bunch of grits to size for my sanding blocks. That way when I am in full-throttle mode I can just grab a few sheets out of the drawer.
Anyway . . . here is the base color coat on several of the panels that will be used.
.This is a good place to stop and let the finish cure for a while. We planned to start setting up Christmas decorations today so it all works out.
glenn bradley
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I made the panels pretty close tolerance-wise. This one was too close so I had to shave a bit more off and re-color.
While I wait for that to dry I glue the rails to the last panel stile. Gluing one side at a time helps me get the rails good and square to the stile. The adjacent stile then pretty much self-squares.
Then I slide the panels in and attach the other stile.
Now all the side panels are glued up.
I'm sure I've mentioned this before. When you are doing an epoxy job, mix a little extra and fill in your worn ZCI's.
A strip of packing tape on the top allows you to pour in the extra epoxy from the back.
You can then re-cut your ZCI opening.
Not perfect but definitely serviceable. I use a sac-fence for this dado cut.
I also use a raised panel feather board. These arced feather boards place the down pressure on the portion of the material that is not being milled. This prevents tipping.
The rabbet in the face frame allows the side panel to seat well. Once in place the vertical grain of the sepele makes the joint almost disappear.
I tend to call this a Garrett Hack joint since that is where I learned it. I have used it with good success on many pieces. Here's an example on a dresser.
It gives the impression of a thicker side member although it is actually a 90 degree joint of 3/4" pieces.
While I wait for that to dry I glue the rails to the last panel stile. Gluing one side at a time helps me get the rails good and square to the stile. The adjacent stile then pretty much self-squares.
Then I slide the panels in and attach the other stile.
Now all the side panels are glued up.
I'm sure I've mentioned this before. When you are doing an epoxy job, mix a little extra and fill in your worn ZCI's.
A strip of packing tape on the top allows you to pour in the extra epoxy from the back.
You can then re-cut your ZCI opening.
Not perfect but definitely serviceable. I use a sac-fence for this dado cut.
I also use a raised panel feather board. These arced feather boards place the down pressure on the portion of the material that is not being milled. This prevents tipping.
The rabbet in the face frame allows the side panel to seat well. Once in place the vertical grain of the sepele makes the joint almost disappear.
I tend to call this a Garrett Hack joint since that is where I learned it. I have used it with good success on many pieces. Here's an example on a dresser.
It gives the impression of a thicker side member although it is actually a 90 degree joint of 3/4" pieces.
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Robert Horky
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Just amazing .. the detail .. the instructions .... we all really appreciate it ... thanks.
glenn bradley
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Sorry for the sort of incremental update. I hardly ever do shelf pins. I do them so seldom that I have bought a new house and built a new shop since the last time I needed a shelf pin jig. By now mine is helplessly lost somewhere on the property; I picked up the Kreg version which seemed reasonably priced for someone who uses one as often as I do and based on what you get.
Most of what I have ever made has been one-off custom stuff. This is even more true now that I only make stuff for our home. This means the well established standards for shelf pins, hinges, and drawer slides rarely apply. Due to my rare use and therefor minimal experience with this basic furniture feature I wanted to see some pencil marks before I started drilling holes.
My Dixon long nose pencil barrel is probably some very reasonable metric dimension. Being an old stroker I think primarily in imperial and the snout would not fit into the 1/4" shelf pin holes (let alone the smaller 5mm versions). I don't know where I get this confidence but I have never shied away from modifying things to meet my needs. I reduced the diameter of the snout with files and sandpaper.
I have some differing setbacks from the leading edge of the material that will receive holes. The front has to account for a 5/8" setback for the rabbet like joinery. The rear needs to account for clearance for the 3/4" french cleats and a 1/4" birch plywood back panel.
I am a big fan of figuring all this stuff out and then using setup blocks to make sure I don't get "creative". I use the usual vise-grip style clamp when the jig references off the built-in fence. For the rear (greater offset) I use a Bessey mighty mini and the outfeed / assembly table. It is amazing how often having a known flat surface with lots of dog holes and slots cut into it comes in handy.
At any rate I manage to get one set of holes in the right place on both verticals.
Three more to go; should be easier now that I have a process.
Most of what I have ever made has been one-off custom stuff. This is even more true now that I only make stuff for our home. This means the well established standards for shelf pins, hinges, and drawer slides rarely apply. Due to my rare use and therefor minimal experience with this basic furniture feature I wanted to see some pencil marks before I started drilling holes.
My Dixon long nose pencil barrel is probably some very reasonable metric dimension. Being an old stroker I think primarily in imperial and the snout would not fit into the 1/4" shelf pin holes (let alone the smaller 5mm versions). I don't know where I get this confidence but I have never shied away from modifying things to meet my needs. I reduced the diameter of the snout with files and sandpaper.
I have some differing setbacks from the leading edge of the material that will receive holes. The front has to account for a 5/8" setback for the rabbet like joinery. The rear needs to account for clearance for the 3/4" french cleats and a 1/4" birch plywood back panel.
I am a big fan of figuring all this stuff out and then using setup blocks to make sure I don't get "creative". I use the usual vise-grip style clamp when the jig references off the built-in fence. For the rear (greater offset) I use a Bessey mighty mini and the outfeed / assembly table. It is amazing how often having a known flat surface with lots of dog holes and slots cut into it comes in handy.
At any rate I manage to get one set of holes in the right place on both verticals.
Three more to go; should be easier now that I have a process.
glenn bradley
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Just some time consuming sub-assembly glue up going on.
I've never been sorry for collecting a gazillion clamps over the decades.
This guy is waiting in the wings.
Once the other upper carcass is glued up I will set them aside and start on the drawer boxes.
I've never been sorry for collecting a gazillion clamps over the decades.
This guy is waiting in the wings.
Once the other upper carcass is glued up I will set them aside and start on the drawer boxes.
glenn bradley
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Still loping along . . . I have some freebie plywood from a local cabinet shop. It is in odd metric thicknesses like a lot of K&B stuff. I laminate some 1/2"-ish pieces together.
I can then mill these to what we here in the U.S. call "normal" imperial dimensions.
I turn these blanks into French cleats at a 3/4" thickness.
It is such a bother when you have been through the full material milling process to get four of something only to realize you actually need eight.
Recovering my composure I finish milling out the frame parts.
Next is a whole lotta mortises.
Ever onward . . .
BTW, I find it relaxing to listen to something soothing while mortising . . . like this for example. Michael Romeo . . . seriously!?! BTW, I also love Glenn Gould and John Coltrane
I can then mill these to what we here in the U.S. call "normal" imperial dimensions.
I turn these blanks into French cleats at a 3/4" thickness.
It is such a bother when you have been through the full material milling process to get four of something only to realize you actually need eight.
Recovering my composure I finish milling out the frame parts.
Next is a whole lotta mortises.
Ever onward . . .
BTW, I find it relaxing to listen to something soothing while mortising . . . like this for example. Michael Romeo . . . seriously!?! BTW, I also love Glenn Gould and John Coltrane
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