Headboard, Nightstand, Pier Project

It's getting there. I really appreciate all the effort you're going through to show the details of this build. :thumb:
Thanks but I must confess . . . I actually use a lot of these posts to remind myself of how I did stuff. The other benfit is that the date stamps let me know how my progress is going and shame me into greater forward impetus. :headbang:
 
Someone was talking about these weird Rockler clamps the other day; here's a use case.
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The arc is asymmetrical. The "inside" surface of each pier butts against the center console. The outer appearance needs a typical overhang to get the look I am after. Therefor the arc is not centered on the panel. I use the "top" to set the arc on the pullout. Just as with the tops I gang the pullouts to rough cut the curve at the bandsaw.
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The panels are taped back to back in order to create a mirror image of the asymmetrical curve.
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They get sanded smooth at the edge sander. I use the same rocking motion as previously mentioned to assure that the free-handed arc is fair.
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Finished up with a shave.
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And I remember why I have those really long pipe clamps :D
 
One of those things you do that you might not think to mention and could help someone out. I batch out these router table fence ZCI blanks whenever I run out.
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My (rather beat up) split fence faces have these profiles on them.
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The insert sets like so. You position the fence and insert ahead of the bit and back into it until you get the projection you are after.
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This allows you to get very clean cuts when doing odd things like running a curve against the cutting area. The oak piece is just a scrap but I do the sapele "keeper" next.
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This removes the bulk of the material in a very predictable way.
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Then I can shave to a finish ready surface with just a few strokes.
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I will do the same for the "tops" of the drawer boxes that set between the drawer and door carcasses.
 
I use a 3/4" bowl bit to cut a finger pull groove under the leading edge of the pullouts. I set up the router table with stops 2" to the left and right of center.
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This is the result.
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LOML and I did a bit of soul searching on the hardware for the pullouts. Under-mounts involved too much space requirement as did really heavy duty center-mount slides. Our previous headboard uses center-mounts and we have had them fail at the worst times. In the end we decided to tolerate the appearance of the side mounted hardware since it is only exposed when we are using the pullouts which is when we are in bed.
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Ever onward . . .
 
I mill out some hard maple drawer box parts . . . parts is parts.
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I take the whole 60 seconds required to swap the rip blade for a 60T crosscut. I use the 60T for burn-prone woods and the 80T for others.
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I cross cut the long and short drawer box parts to final length.
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I will let these rest while I grab a bite to eat.
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When I get back I will cut the grooves for the bottoms and the notches for the Blum under mount slides.
 
I just use a magnetic stop at the bandsaw to cut the Blum slide relief gaps in the rear of the drawers.

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Then free hand the short cuts.

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I pre-finish the insides of the drawer box components with a clear shellac.

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I keep a couple of these old hand cream jars with shellac and a rag inside. One is "clean" and is used for things like the drawer parts. The other is "dirty"; the clean stuff gets dumped in there if it gets polluted and then the "clean" container gets fresh stuff. I use this "dirty" stuff for shop fixtures, chisel handles, refreshing vise chops, and so forth.

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I was able to mill the drawer faces from a single board which makes them match up nicely.

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They will get profiled but will look sort of like this.

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The door frame parts get M&T joinery.

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There will be floating panels so there will be grooves. This particular batch of sapele has been tear-out prone so I wheel scribe the groove boundaries. Highlighted here with some white pencil to make them easier to see.

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I use a slotting bit at the router table and the wheel gauge scribe lines yield me nice clean cuts.

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Time to size the door panels and then profile them and the drawer fronts.
 
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I rip the door panels to final width.
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I do a test profile to check the fit. The white pencil marks are 1/4" in from the edge.
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These lines disappear into the groove which tells me I have the depth I want. I put blobs of silicone rubber glue in the grooves as opposed to space balls. This lets me position the panels and 24 hours later I have them setting just where I want them in custom fitted space balls.
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Not much makes it into apiece in my shop directly from the machine although there are exceptions. These panels and the drawer fronts will get a kiss from the Millers Falls No.9 (Millers Falls defines their planes by actual length) which is the equivalent of a Stanley No. 4.
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OK, test fit is good. Let's move on . . .
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I keep a piece of chalk in a holder in my apron. I use it for all sorts of witness marks to help me track my progress (or lack thereof) while working the material.
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My old buddy Gulf Wax steps in to make my hand tools move smoother.
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A raking light is always helpful when trying to assure a surface prep is "done".
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And the drawers and doors will look sort of like so.
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I still need to glue up the door frames and then profile the outer edges of them.
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However, it is getting close and I am excited to lay on some finish.
 
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Had the urge for along nap this afternoon but still managed to get a bit done. Many years ago I bought a dozen rolls of this poor quality wax paper at the 99-cent store. Still haven't run out :D
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When I am done dispensing silicone rubber glue I just take the nozzle off and toss it in the plastic tub where I keep such things. By the next time I am ready for it "next time" I can just push out the old spoil with a piece of coat hanger.
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This tai-chi hinge cup jig has proven to be quite useful. It got good reviews back in the day and I will have to add to them.
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The dust collection is particularly good.
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Taa-Daa.
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Feeling pretty good about it. Knocking off for now. LOML and I are having a movie-night . . . ahh, young romance. :rolleyes:
 
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