How to cut a concrete retainer wall block

Concrete or diamond wheel on an angle grinder works well, just wear a mask. You also probably can use a chisel to score a line around it and knock it with a hammer. Won't be quite a clean, but should break on the line.
 
Make a line where you want to cut it using a hammer and a wide mason's chisel. Just light taps enough to make the line. Continue back and forth along the line. Do the same on the bottom in the same position as the top line. Alternate back and forth slowly, very slowly, increasing the hammer blow force as you go, and eventually the block will crack open at about the point that you want it, if you don't hit it too hard. This works better with practice and doesn't always give you a nice straight cut. Or you could get a concrete abrasive blade and use it in your oldest circular saw, cutting a slice in from opposite sides. Once you are about 1/3 of the way through from each side, a slight blow of a hammer will usually break it the rest of the way. If successful, repeat the process on the other end of the block. Concrete never breaks with nice clean lines. There is too much variation in the bonds between the concrete and aggregate inside them. The light blows with the chisel sets up a crack line through the block to the crack line coming from the other side. The saw cut does similar, if you have an old spare circular saw. (wouldn't use a nice one for this).
A right angle grinder with a masonry disk can clean up the break.

Of course, you want to use a good dust mask, safety glasses, a face shield it a good idea too, as well as leather gloves.

Charley
 
Maybe just buy a half block. It's pretty thick to cut with a abrasive blade and probably less expensive than a diamond blade. The dust created is a real pia unless you use a "wet" diamond blade.
 
Like Tom and Larry said - just deeply score all four sides with the angle grinder and diamond or fiber masonry wheel, then tap lightly but firmly on the waste side with a hammer. It'll break along the scoring, but the middle of the break will be rough. Fairly easy to do.
 
Add another vote for scoring fairly deep with an angle grinder on all four sides of the cut and then tapping on the waste side to break it along the scoring. Or if you know any rockhounds, perhaps they have a wet rock saw you could use for a few minutes. (One of my granddads was a rockhound and he had a wet rock saw with an 18" diamond blade.) A big wet tile saw would also work. Another option might be to see if a local masonry contractor would be willing to cut it for you in exchange for a 6-pack of their favorite beverage.
 
Another vote for AG & abrasive wheel. Harbor freight is the cheapest option. Wear a dust mask. Use a small hammer on the front & side to help blend in the cut, a wire brush may also help. If you don't have extra blocks cut it long and experiment.
 
Thank all. I will go get the abrasive wheel for my angle grinder. I will be able to use that for more projects. I was thinking about the chisel, but was not sure.

I cannot respace as that is the way the blocks stack up. The lower level is spaced to make the circle and already into the ground. They are well established. The top layer is a smaller circle. The "key" on the bottom of the block is placed inside the circle of the lower block. Next time at the borg look at the blocks if you think of it.
 
Everybody is making this harder than it is. Measure where you want to cut it and wrap det cord around it. Set it off and whamo!!! Cut stone! Oh, yeah. I forgot. Gotta have a license for that. Sorry. Better go back to the other ideas.
Or, if you have a masonry drill, drill a few evenly spaced holes and put a pea-sized bit of C4 or Semtec in each. Stand well back when you light it off. :LOL: Oh yeah, check with BATF first. They're pretty sensitive about that stuff. :rolleyes:
 
Instead of cutting the one block smaller, have you considered shaving the ends of the rest? With an angle grinder, taking a bit off many blocks might be a more reliable way to do this, and there wouldn't be one off-size block this way.

Charley
 
Everybody is making this harder than it is. Measure where you want to cut it and wrap det cord around it. Set it off and whamo!!! Cut stone! Oh, yeah. I forgot. Gotta have a license for that. Sorry. Better go back to the other ideas.
This has nothing to do with Leo's problem, but your idea of the det cord reminded me of a shipment I tried to make into South Africa... I sent about 1000 kgs of oil field explosives to Jo'burg, no problem.. each charge is about 2 inches dia and fits in a holder that goes down a pipe called a down hole gun... the pipe has 1 inch walls, with holes drilled almost all the way through that corresponds with the charges in the holder.... all this is then fitted with det cord to activate the charges... but in U.S. you can't ship det cord with explosives...and evidently you can't ship det cord into South Africa at all.... I called every official in the SA government trying to get permit to make the shipment... no go...... in the end we shipped to Namibia and the consignee arranged to smuggle it into SA...
 
My grandpa used det cord to dig ditch. Technically it was Primacord but I'm 99% sure the same thing.

In the 1950s there was one place in north america you could still put in for a homestead grant. That was in Northern BC (ok maybe there were other places but it was one of the few anyway). The problem is that a lot of the land was also classified as "undrainable swamp". You couldn't get heavy equipment in as even a D8 would just disappear, and you couldn't dig the mud our fast enough by hand before it would slide back in and fill the ditch. Enter primacord! He would lay out about 1/4-1/2 mile of primacord with a 1/4 stick of dynamite every 10-15' depending on the slop factor. Slop some mud on top (the primacord was kind of just laid between the muskeg hummocks) and light it off. Wham! Instant ditch. Starting at the lower end of the property he was able to put drains in along several meadows in only a few weeks. This was the same grandpa who when I speculated about how cool a round bale would look lit on fire and rolled off the mountain sadly shook his head and said "doesn't work nearly as well as you'd hope, kept blowing out" at which point I asked "what about soaked in gas" to which he replied "it almost worked, but the bale came apart and was pretty underwhelming". My other grandpa introduced me to blasting gell and beaver damns though so... I guess it's from both sides.


On Leo's issue, +1 to diamond saw and scoring four sides as deep as possible. Take your time and work the cuts down nice and deep, set the "keeper side" on a solid surface with good support and the offcut just hanging off. Give the offcut a good number gentle taps from all directions to kind of propagate the cracks and if it doesn't come loose a few less gentle taps. I've cut block with the wide brick chisels before and it's fine if your layout can use a fair number of blocks with misscuts, but I wouldn't chance it here. If you need a clean cut it takes a lot more technique than you're likely to master on one block and the concrete blocks are fussier and more prone to run in an undesired direction than brick or a lot of rock (and still need the face cleaned up a fair bit which is also a high risk endeavour). If you end up with some protruding chunks score down through them with the diamond blade so you only have maybe 1/2" of material to chip off so you don't break the main block when doing cleanup.
 
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