How would you?

[John Daugherty]

How would you attach this oak top to the top of this card catalog? The case is 33" wide by 19" deep. The case is made from plywood with oak veneer on the sides.

 

[Jim DeLaney]

I'd probably cut "shiplap" rabbets on the edges of each board, and attach them with one nail/screw in the center of each - preferably screwed from below so they don't show. That'd allow for cross-grain expansion/contraction.

Otherwise, you could glue up the oak panel, and glue and screw (from below) the front of it, and use slotted screw holes at the middle and back. That way, the front would stay flush, and the movement would all be towards the back.

 

[John Daugherty]

I'd probably cut "shiplap" rabbets on the edges of each board, and attach them with one nail/screw in the center of each - preferably screwed from below so they don't show. That'd allow for cross-grain expansion/contraction.

Otherwise, you could glue up the oak panel, and glue and screw (from below) the front of it, and use slotted screw holes at the middle and back. That way, the front would stay flush, and the movement would all be towards the back.

Thanks Jim. I've got the panel glued up already. I can't have any overhang on the case. It fits between two doors. I'm going to trim it a little oversized and then flush it with the router. The openings are about 4" tall. Any suggestions on how you would get screws inside? I was thinking about drilling some holes in the bottom and go up through there to attach the top.

 

[Jim DeLaney]

Thanks Jim. I've got the panel glued up already. I can't have any overhang on the case. It fits between two doors. I'm going to trim it a little oversized and then flush it with the router. The openings are about 4" tall. Any suggestions on how you would get screws inside? I was thinking about drilling some holes in the bottom and go up through there to attach the top.

The oak won't change in length. It'll only change across the grain - and a panel that width will vary less than a quarter inch over a typical year. As for mounting...maybe a short, stubby screwdriver - or, as you've suggested, drill holes up thru the bottom. Maybe use Phillips or Robertson headed screws and only drill holes big enough for the screwdriver's shank.

 

[Charles Lent]

Going through the top of the box, the screw holes should be about 1/4" larger in diameter than the diameter required for the screw. Then when screws are installed through these holes and into the underside of the oak top, place a large washer on each screw. The washer and larger hole in the box will allow the top to change size without breaking or coming loose. You don't need to do this to all of the holes. The ones along the front can be screwed tight without the washers or enlarged holes. This will keep the front edge of the top in line with the box, and the rear will overhang by about 1/4" in humid Weather and pull back to be in line with the rear edge of the box in dry Weather.

Charley

 

[glenn bradley]

Charles and I are of a like mind on this. No oversize holes at the critical alignment point and oversize where there is room to breath. I use this method on dressers and other items that require a consistent 'plane relationship' throughout the year.

I have a couple different long reach / right angle driving tools. If you drive the screws into the oak and then back them out, putting them back in during this awkward operation will be much easier.

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