Large Wall Mirror

[glenn bradley]

So here's the other two in rough form.

Another wandering stream of consciousness thing about Shop Vac hook-ups. I picked up these Rockler vac hose mounts during a clearance sale. They have proven to be very handy and I am sure you could make a shop-made version without much effort..

They allow me to move the hose from my wall mounted Shop Vac from machine to machine with ease. I have them on my disc, spindle, and vertical belt sanders.

As well as my small bandsaw.

And the drill press.

But . . . I digress . . .

These are not glued down. Simply setting in place but I like the look. I find hand preparing these types of things lends a more organic look and feel. There are other times when I prefer a machine to provide a consistent purposeful look. It all depends on what you are doing and what the look is that you are after.

 

[glenn bradley]

I've mentioned how this mirror hangs differently than a picture. The mirror mounts to the wall and the frame just sort of clips to it for visual effect. This involves a sub-frame to allow room for the french cleats. The mirror and backer also have some integral clips riveted in back when the mirror was made. I clamp the sub-frame parts in place to make myself comfortable with the fit.

That's a little more extra room than I was after.

Yeah, 1/4" where I was really wanting 1/8". What's that old saying? "Measure twice . . . ".

Resolved the sizing issue and used Dominoes for the corners of the long, thin, sub-frame rails and stiles. This large frame is proving to be a space challenge as I have other things going on in the shop right now. Doing a staged glue up actually works out for me today as I have a lot of clean up work to do in the back yard. I can glue and clamp a sub-assembly, go work in the yard, come back and take the next step and go back out in the yard. The joys of retirement and building for yourself; no schedule.

I developed the habit long ago of gluing up frames in a pair of "L's". This is an extra step from just gluing up the whole frame at once but I find I get better results this way. This lets me assure the corners are square and that the surfaces are in plane. I use the same method on picture frames, boxes, almost any square or rectangular assembly. We all find our own ways that lead to success. I set a timer for about 30 minutes and then will connect the two "L's" and move along.

 

[Rennie Heuer]

Thank you!

 

[glenn bradley]

The side stiles on the frame are tapered. Normally I just clamp material to the MatchFit sled for odd angled cuts at the tablesaw. The length on these exceeded my sled so out comes the L-Fence.

I have an old chop saw fence extension in the racks. I checked it for accuracy and it gets to do the job. You lay out your line (or in my case the end points) of the angled cut. Double stick tape the "guide" to the blank.

The guide rides the L-Fence, the material passes under the L-Fence letting you make a straight cut at an angle.

And here's the result.

They are not yet cut to final length and therefor look different from each other. All this was to get the parts broken out with the figure I wanted for the stiles.

It's not there yet but I am definitely starting to see it.

 

[glenn bradley]

These half-moon clamping blocks come in handy once again. Always good for clamping nonparallel pieces.

For whatever reason I didn't cut all the stiles at the same time. I figure it is easier to fit the narrow vertical divider by cutting is a smidge long and tuning it with the shooting board.



Here's a good view of the earthquake damage (scratch) that I am covering up with the frame design.

It gets covered like so.

I layout for the mortises.

This shop made stop block is great for non-square pieces on the Domino table.

And that's how they're supposed to go.

20 Dominoes.

Like a glove.

Time to take it apart and start my surface prep. Should be applying finish by the weekend if all goes well.

 

[glenn bradley]

Just thought I would mention that I use a rag in a can dripped with 3-in-1 to wipe down my planes before I put them away. I have never had any rust issues but I do live in a mild climate.

The can with the rag also holds my paraffin block and sets right on the plane till.

It is always satisfying to complete a project. I think the second most satisfying stage for me is the completion of surface prep.

Time for glue-up and then on to finishing.

 

[glenn bradley]

As is my habit I glue up sub-assemblies and then join those larger assemblies to complete the project.

This lets me make sure things are square and tight. A hand screw makes a good stabilizer for tall, wobbly assemblies.

Closer . . .

And there we go.

I will let this cure overnight and then move on.

 

[glenn bradley]

I use these little cherry medallions to sign my work lately. Available from a local artisan. The felt pen I use to place the date uses an alcohol carrier so I top coat them with a bit of lacquer.

I have a set of "Big Gator" drill guides and use one of them to cut the Forstner recess accurately.



There we go.

I do a test cut with the countersink stop to make sure I am not going to suffer the pain of blowing out the front of your show face.

All looks good.



I lay in the sub-frame and clamp it for a few.

 

[glenn bradley]

Casting this out to the brain trust . . . .

The original frame stayed in place (including the dive off the wall during the earthquake in 1970) with just ten, 8d finishing nails surrounding the interior and levering against the mirror backer. I'm not saying that is how I would do it but obviously Somebody's Grandpa knew what he was doing. I am thinking I will use some #8 trim head screws as shown unless any of you wizards can suggest why I should or should not

Here's the frame on the elevating tables.

Here it is raised into position.

Here is the planned fastener of choice.

Opinions welcome.

 

[glenn bradley]

Thanks for all the ideas. I am going to just go with the trim head screws. I will quadruple the number of contact points that the 50-odd year old frame had so I should be good. I use this Mike Stafford awl almost every day and am so happy to have it.

I will place the screws like so.

Sorry about the blurry pic but, you get the idea.

 

[Vaughn McMillan]

I've seen the backside of a lot of expensive will hangings, and the pin method is pretty common. I don't see why it wouldn't work for this.

 

[glenn bradley]

Just doing a color check. The one on the left wins the match for the sideboard.

I decided to go with the leather straps hanging from pegs like the picture frame in the first post. The disc sander works great for things like rounding the ends of dowels.

I need a couple of stopped holes in the hanger bar for the dowels.

I go ahead and lay on the base color coat and sealer, front and back.



Now I will just start to build the film layers.

 

[glenn bradley]

Applying more finish this morning while listening to ELP's "Trilogy". If that won't get you through a process I don't know what will.
This is coat 4 prior to being wiped off.

I use oil based products so I keep a bucket of water nearby to toss used rags into. I put a lid on this at the end of the day and at the end of the finishing process I carry it out to the yard and toss the rags onto the ground (bare clay and DG).

The next day I toss the dry rags into the trash.

There we go. This will set until tomorrow.

 

[glenn bradley]

It's kind of like checking on a baby when its napping . . . Still looking OK. I have to find a movie to watch or something. I need to stay away from this thing till tomorrow.



I believe I will add a bit of dye to the final couple of top coats. The sideboard has aged well to this coloration . . .

I want to try to match that. I am close but it needs just a touch more brown.

 

[glenn bradley]

Finally got this thing on the wall (thanks neighbor). I still have the hanger bar and leather straps to go but, they are purely decorative.

 

[Robert Horky]

Just sayin ... it is not centered over the cabinet below it. Must have used two different tape measures.

 

[glenn bradley]

Just sayin ... it is not centered over the cabinet below it. Must have used two different tape measures.

The sideboard is pulled out a couple of feet from the wall right now so I can work behind it.

 

[Robert Horky]

The sideboard is pulled out a couple of feet from the wall right now so I can work behind it.

I knew that but couldn't resist teasing the man that teaches us perfection. It looks great

 

[glenn bradley]

This project seems intent on taking as long as absolutely possible. I have the leather straps cut to size. I went to get the punch to put the holes in them and "there it wasn't". I wasted more time than I should have trying to find it and finally ordered a replacement. It will be here tomorrow right after I find the one I have misplaced .

 

[Tom Niemi]

I lost my leather punch years ago, I just switched to Brad point drill bits, they work as great replacements for me