Matchfit Sled V2

I realize I ought to be a little more thorough in my coverage of this little project :whistling: To try to add some value I will track the current effort here in more detail.

I plan the DT groove layout based on the ZCI and fence positions. Using a previous version I learned that I would like the track pattern to start about an inch from the fence, front to back, and abouI an inch from either side of the ZCI moving out left and right. This is the first drawing and close enough for discussion. Things got adjusted slightly but that drawing is out in the shop and I am setting inside having coffee
:P


Matchfit Sled 2 (0).jpg

In this case the dado 'in front of the fence' position and the dados on either side of the ZCI that will go in get cut as reference slots at the router table. I then use the hand held router with a guide to cut the rest of the dados using those starting points.
Matchfit Sled 2 (2).jpg

The dados are cut just a bit shy of full depth.
Matchfit Sled 2 (3).jpg

I will then follow with the dovetail bit in the same guide jig taking extra care where the intersections are to keep the corners clean. It is a lot of hand routing but worth the effort in the long run to me. The pic in the first post is where I am so far; just dados, no DT's yet.
 
I think most of you have seen my take on the auto-adjust dado jig.
Matchfit Sled 2 (4).jpg . Matchfit Sled 2 (5).jpg
I can swap out the edge clamp depending on the length (or width) of stock I am working on.
Matchfit Sled 2 (6).jpg
The 'normal' use for this jig is for dust frames or shelves. In that case you use a piece of the shelf stock to set the width.
Matchfit Sled 2 (7).jpg
I will be cutting a 3" wide 1/4" deep dado so it will take me two setups.
Matchfit Sled 2 (8).jpg
The template collar rides the shelf in the jig opening and the bit cuts flush to the edge of the jaws.
Matchfit Sled 2 (9).jpg . Matchfit Sled 2 (10).jpg
After several passes and one repositioning, due to the maximum width of the jig opening, you get this.
Matchfit Sled 2 (11).jpg . Matchfit Sled 2 (12).jpg
Now for number two.
 
I scrape the bulk of the squeeze out from the sides of the fence blanks with a carbide scraper.
Matchfit Sled 2 (17).jpg

This keep the glue from gumming up sanders and other tools. I touch up one side of each blank on the edge sander to get a reference face/side to work from.
Matchfit Sled 2 (18).jpg

I'll leave those for a bit and take a look at the 'right off the machine' condition of the bases.
Matchfit Sled 2 (19).jpg

I grab a scrap and affix 100 grit sandpaper to two faces at 90 degrees.
Matchfit Sled 2 (20).jpg

This makes me an edge-easing sanding block. I have gone ahead and ordered the router bit Micro Jig sells based on reports of how much less touch up is needed with their trick little profile on the dovetail.
Matchfit Sled 2 (21).jpg

For now a bit of hand sanding gets me here.
Matchfit Sled 2 (22).jpg
 
Took a weekend getaway up to the high desert. Beautiful weather, good friends, and all that. Time to mount the fence. I use 1/4-20 t-bolts, washers and nuts.
Matchfit Sled 2 (23).jpg
I counter bore the top of the fence to allow me to reach the nuts with a nut driver. The through hole is 1/4" for a tight fit on the bolt.
Matchfit Sled 2 (24).jpg
I then use the fence and a long bit to make a dimple for each hole position on the base. These are just deep enough to use for registration.
Matchfit Sled 2 (25).jpg
Using some outboard support I drill the 3/8" through holes in the sled base at each position.
Matchfit Sled 2 (26).jpg
I then flip the base and drill overlapping Forstner holes to make an oval. This oval in combination with the 3/8" through hole lets the t-bolt do this.
Matchfit Sled 2 (28).jpgMatchfit Sled 2 (29).jpg
With each of the four holes having this much adjustability I can align the fence easily.

The t-bolts come up through the bottom. The heads are recessed into the ovals so they clear the saw's table.
Matchfit Sled 2 (30).jpg
I slip the fence on, mark for the ZCI using the sled's base ZCI cutout as a layout. I cut the ZCI slot in the fence and set a sacrificial insert into it. I am using a couple of business cards to center the position. Many of my sleds use the same fence inserts screw pattern.
Matchfit Sled 2 (31).jpg
So close. The next steps are critical and I am burned out ;-)
Matchfit Sled 2 (32).jpg
I will pick it up in the morning.
 
More pictures than you'll ever need
:lol:
. I flip the base and clamp the front fence in position.
Matchfit Sled 2 (33).jpg
Screwing into plywood edges follows the same rules as screwing into MDF; the pilot hole should allow the screw shaft to fit. Only the threads bite into the wood. You do not want the screw's shaft to force the plys (or MDF) apart.
Matchfit Sled 2 (34).jpg
The hole should also be a bit deeper than the screw for the same reason.
Matchfit Sled 2 (35).jpg
Previous sleds have had the front fence glued and screwed. I'm going with just screws for this one as a test.
Matchfit Sled 2 (36).jpg
I lay out the screw positions for the base ZCI.
Matchfit Sled 2 (37).jpg
Some stops at the DP make batching these out pretty quick.
Matchfit Sled 2 (38).jpg
Like the fence ZCI I use card stock to center the blank and drill the screw holes.
Matchfit Sled 2 (39).jpg
I make the ZCI dados a bit deep. This lets me shim the inserts flush.
Matchfit Sled 2 (40).jpg
 
I use some straight grained pecan for the runners. I machine them to rough size.
Matchfit Sled 2 (41).jpg
And block plane the final fit.
Matchfit Sled 2 (42).jpg
I use a counter bore and a washer head screw as opposed to a flat head screw that can swell the runner when tightened.. Again, stops at the DP make things quick.
Matchfit Sled 2 (43).jpg
I was surprised to find something in this top drawer of the TS cabinet.
Matchfit Sled 2 (44).jpg
(think Blazing Saddles) "... a blank load of dimes".
Matchfit Sled 2 (45).jpg
These are leftover from the last time I did a sled for this saw 3 years ago. They raise the runners up just proud of the tablesaw top. The runners have double stick tape on them.
Matchfit Sled 2 (46).jpg
I pre set the fence position and lean the right edge of the sled base against it . . . then lower it onto the runners.
Matchfit Sled 2 (47).jpg
I knew I left the wheels on that outfeed cabinet for a reason. I slide the sled forward and backward with the runners still partially in the slots and add the screws.
Matchfit Sled 2 (48).jpg
 
Add the rear fence.
Matchfit Sled 2 (49).jpg
And the Dummy Block.
Matchfit Sled 2 (50).jpg
I re-purposed this block from another sled. The new sled will have to age a bit before the colors match.
The two slots blocked by the front fence are actually dados, not dovetails. This lets me set clamps into these slots.
Matchfit Sled 2 (51).jpg

Matchfit Sled 2 (52).jpg
Although this will probably become my main sled it really excels at holding odd ball stuff.
Matchfit Sled 2 (53).jpg

Matchfit Sled 2 (54).jpg
That's it.
 
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That came out looking great, with tons of functionality. Bravo!

I wish I had room for a sled similar to this one. As it is, I don't have room to store the two I already have. I can either keep them where they're accessible and a trip hazard, or I can "put them away" where it takes three men and a small boy to get them out for use.
 
Good thing I don't have a table saw right now, as I would probably have to refrain from showing shots of any sled I built. I am sure the comparison to your sled would be downright embarrassing.
 
That came out looking great, with tons of functionality. Bravo!

I wish I had room for a sled similar to this one. As it is, I don't have room to store the two I already have. I can either keep them where they're accessible and a trip hazard, or I can "put them away" where it takes three men and a small boy to get them out for use.
One of mine is currently being torn apart to make room. I figure a decade or so of use . . . it should die an honorable death.
 

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