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Motor Starter

Leo Voisine

Leo Voisine

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6,011
Location
East Freeetown, Massachusetts
My Harbor freight dust collector stopped working. Even if I plug in direct to the wall socket it will not start.

I bypassed the on/off switch some years ago as it wore out. I have been using a remote switch from Penn.

What do I need to know about a new motor starter. Lots of Chinese stuff out there.

This one worked from 2003 till now, so I call it a good life but I am sure American made would still be going strong for a long time to come.
 
How big a motor? 120v~ or 240v~ ?
If 240, does it use an actual start relay assembly, or are you referring to a start capacitor? If it's a capacitor, the old one will likely have the µFarad rating printed on its case. Use the same - or slightly larger - rated one as a replacement.

I have the 2 hp. 240v~ version of their DC and it uses a capacitor.
 
It's a big motor, they claim 2hp but 120v As listed it is called a motor starter capacitor. I am not much informed about that stuff, but I would call it a capacitor. It has two wires going into the actual motor. It has 400 u/f ~+ 30% 60CD 125 VAC
 
Leo Voisine said:
It's a big motor, they claim 2hp but 120v As listed it is called a motor starter capacitor. I am not much informed about that stuff, but I would call it a capacitor. It has two wires going into the actual motor. It has 400 u/f ~+ 30% 60CD 125 VAC
Click to expand...
Should be in stock at almost every electric motor repair shop, but just in case ..... here's one at Amazon.com
 

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Leo Voisine said:
I will order that one
glenn bradley said:
It needs to match the voltage and micro farad rating of the one you have. I also use Temco when I have had the need. They have never failed.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

There's a drop down list on that page so that the correct item can be selected. The original appears to allow for a +30% tolerance, so ideally a 400UF ~+30% would be the choice.
If it's not available I'd have no problems using something close .....

 
I had to replace the start capacitor on my "2 hp" (air quotes) 120v Harbor Freight DC a few years ago. As others have done, I ordered something with the same ratings from Amazon. It was a quick and easy fix. I also replaced the On/Off switch on mine years ago with a generic 120v toggle switch. That was another easy project. I've had a couple of remotes and both stopped working eventually. I just use the manual switch now, since I'm not doing nearly as much woodworking as I used to.
 
Leo Voisine said:
Oh I don't wanna give up my remote. no - no - no!!!! The way I use it all around my shop. I also placed the DC outside my shop. In my garden room. Dry and safe, just not a heated room. Getting to the switch would be annoying to me.
Click to expand...
Amen. I have three remotes around the shop for the DC. I put a little self-stick velcro on the remote and a bit on the top of the bandsaw, one by the jointer and one in my apron pocket, I don't always wear the apron :rolleyes: . Now, back in the day these things were only about $20 a pop so this may no longer make any sense at today's prices. Back then my shop was so cramped I had to dance 'the Black Swan' to get from the tablesaw to the DC so it made sense for me to blow a little cash on remotes.
 
I found the problem

When I bypassed the switch several years ago I used a plug in type wire connector. One wire seems to have wiggled loose and sparked and burned out the connection.

I stripped and reconnected with a wire nut. I used the new capacitor and it is working now. I am sure it was not the capacitor, but the new one is installed and I am done with that,
 
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