Stuart Ablett
Member
- Messages
- 15,964
- Location
- Tokyo Japan
Every year, I make a small gift to give at our Christmas party. This year, it was a small cutting board. One went to each household that attended the party. I also made some cutting boards for my clients to say "Thank You!" for the work they gave me during the year. I was all done with the cutting boards when I realized I was short one board for one client, my biggest and longest-running client. I've been doing work for him for 15 years at least.
I had a piece of "Siberian Pine" that was part of some shelving at his vacation home, which was all ripped out because I had to rebuild a room that had a water leak in the basement wall. I used this and some walnut that I bought maybe 20 years ago to try and make an end-grain cutting board.
I went to YouTube University and watched some videos, and got to work.
First glue up of all the pieces
I use the belt sander to knock off all of the glue before running the board through the drum sander
Finished on the drum sander
Using my sled to cut all the pieces
The fun part is flipping every second piece to get the pattern.
The second glue-up
.
Again, the belt sander saves both time and my belts on the drum sander.
I did have a
moment when the belt broke!
It was an old belt, so no big loss, in the second pic you can see the end that was left on the machine, where it broke.
Done with the drum sander
I'm going with a walnut edge, as the pine is softer than I would like, and I worry it would dent too easily. Besides, who doesn't like walnut!
Glue-up again, this time I very carefully wiped off any extra glue as I don't want to use the belt sander on this one.
Done on the drum sander, now time for the ROS
I'm happy with the joints. I did not want to try putting a 45 on the corners; I'm in a bit of a time crunch.
Sanded to #80, all of the drum sander lines removed, then wetted down with water to raise the grain, now... more sanding
Cheers!
PS, I have been using unscented bay oil for my cutting boards, as the butcher block oil is stupid expensive here, and I cannot find the laxative mineral oil here.
The baby oil is basically mineral oil and tocopherol acetate, which is used to make your skin nicer, not exactly food safe, but you are not supposed to eat the cutting boar LOL.
I had a piece of "Siberian Pine" that was part of some shelving at his vacation home, which was all ripped out because I had to rebuild a room that had a water leak in the basement wall. I used this and some walnut that I bought maybe 20 years ago to try and make an end-grain cutting board.
I went to YouTube University and watched some videos, and got to work.
First glue up of all the pieces
I use the belt sander to knock off all of the glue before running the board through the drum sander
Finished on the drum sander
Using my sled to cut all the pieces
The fun part is flipping every second piece to get the pattern.
The second glue-up
.Again, the belt sander saves both time and my belts on the drum sander.
I did have a
moment when the belt broke!It was an old belt, so no big loss, in the second pic you can see the end that was left on the machine, where it broke.
Done with the drum sander
I'm going with a walnut edge, as the pine is softer than I would like, and I worry it would dent too easily. Besides, who doesn't like walnut!
Glue-up again, this time I very carefully wiped off any extra glue as I don't want to use the belt sander on this one.
Done on the drum sander, now time for the ROS
I'm happy with the joints. I did not want to try putting a 45 on the corners; I'm in a bit of a time crunch.
Sanded to #80, all of the drum sander lines removed, then wetted down with water to raise the grain, now... more sanding
Cheers!
PS, I have been using unscented bay oil for my cutting boards, as the butcher block oil is stupid expensive here, and I cannot find the laxative mineral oil here.
The baby oil is basically mineral oil and tocopherol acetate, which is used to make your skin nicer, not exactly food safe, but you are not supposed to eat the cutting boar LOL.
