My version of Capt Eddies Steel Snake

Wayne Bower

Member
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854
Location
Des Moines, IA
I ran across a article on how to build an elbo type tool. This is my version of that. I have only used it on one HF and it is not finished. I still have to do some fine tuning but I think it is going to work pretty well. Let me know what you think. This is not a hard build but does require some good square drilling. I used bronze bushing for the pivot points. I know that they will not last as long as ball bearings would but my budget is tight. I have about $30 in the project. Since these pics were taken I have added a laser attachment.
I will get some pics of that and post later. My son Jeff thought I should post this as he posted my captured hollowing rig that I built. The plans that I used are found here. http://www.bayouwoodturners.com/december2007/steelsnake.pdf
 

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Glad you posted the pics Dad! It looks great and I can't wait to try it out next time I'm home.

Frank, he spins a G0462, I don't think he's done any mods to the tailstock other than adding a second power switch for safety and you don't have to reach around the spining wood to turn it off.
 
Wayne,

Thanks for posting the pictures. It sure looks like a neat and well thought out setup. I would like to know more about your modifications and what you recommend for someone starting to build one of these. I am starting to gather some of the pieces, but do not have any of the bushings yet. What size do you recommend? I also notice your stock that holds the cutter looks like octagon shaped metal and would like to know about it as well. Your setup using the tail stock looks much simpler than the bed mount. What did you use to attach to your tail stock?

Thanks again for posting the pictures and any information you could provide!!

John
 
Great job! I especially like how you used the tailstock instead of having to build your own holder. Did you have to modify the square rod to fit?
 
Okay, I will try to explain a little and will post some more pics later. The tailstock is a morse taper that believe it or not I made out of a piece of 3/4" round stock and filed down by putting the piece in a chuck that I made on my wood lathe. I will take some more pics of the process. The main shafts are 1" x 1" square solid stock that I purchased at a local manufacturing plant here in town and as it was a cut off they sold it to me at a scrap price.
The bushings were purchased at a local farm supply store and are 3/8" inside diameter and 1/2" diameter on the outside. They fit well in a 1/2" hole and the 3/8" bolts fit well on the inside. As it says in Capt Eddies plans, the hole size must fit the bolts well or there is too much vibration.
I am planing on changing a couple of things to make the system work a little smoother but will not have time tonight.
I will post some pics when I do the redo and have some pics of the system all apart.
The octogan piece was something I experimented with and it didn't work but this seems to work.
Thanks for the interest.
 
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More Info

Stu, Frank, John, and all. Here are some photos of the steel snake that I built. I think that they should explain some of the areas of interest. There is an exploded view, and several others. I am going to post a more detailed discription of the tool on the next post.
Steve, the piece on the lathe is the first HF with the new tool.
 

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Even more Info

:D:DTo give credit to the people that I got information from, here are the web sites.
http://www.bayouwoodturners.com/december2007/steelsnake.pdf
Capt Eddies plans
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=80501 Fred Morton's version
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=82387&highlight=Capt+Eddies+Ste William Bolen's version

I have combined ideas from the above versions and adapted some of my own ideas to create my version. I used bronze bushings purchased at the local farm store. They are 1/2” outside diameter and 3/8” inside diameter. They did fit snug in a standard 1/2” drill bit hole. The 1 x 1 solid steel stock was purchased from a local fabrication company and paid scrap iron price as it was a cut off.
I did do some design work on the unit on a cad program to work out how all the pieces would work on the lathe. Saved me some time in experimenting. I also made a wooden mock up first to see how the rig would move on the lathe.
The tailstock mount is by a #2 morse taper that I made on my wood lathe by using a home made chuck, my little 4” grinder and a file. Took about 45 minutes to make. Drilled a 5/8” hole in the 1 x 1 steel stock and added a couple of 5/16” set screws to hold it in place. See photo of the tailstock assembly.
The half lap joint continues to give me some trouble as there is some lateral movement that I have not been able correct. The unit still works but does have some movement if you get to aggressive with the cut.
The front end is a 6” long piece of the 1x 1 stock with a 1/2" hole drilled 2” deep in from the end. Set screws hold it in place. I think this will allow me to use some other types of boring bars on the unit. The hexagon piece is something that I made to use with a scraper bit. It was an experiment and did not work like I wanted. I picked up that piece from a local fabrication company and paid scrap iron price as it was a cut off. The octagon shape I hope will allow me to turn the smoothing scraper that I use on the inside of forms to a shear scrape angle. Not sure if that is going to work.
The photos attached to the previous posts should be self explanatory. There is also a pdf file attached of the cad drawing. you will have to rotate the pdf file to view. Not sure what I did wrong.
Hopefully, this is not too much information. If it is not, feel free to e-mail me or post the question.
 

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Wayne,

Thanks for taking the time to post the information and pictures. Do you think the half laps are necessary and would the lateral movement be eliminated with the larger mass on both pieces? I really like the looks of your arrangement!!!!

Thanks again,
John
 
John, I have thought about the half lap as being the problem but I think a letter size drill bit would have made the bushing fit tighter and the latteral movement would be eliminated. I am thinking that if I glued the bushings in with an expanding glue such as gorrila I might fix my problem.
 
Thanks everyone for the interest. Nice to be able to give back as I have gained a lot of knowledge reading and seeing the things others have done. I would like to know if anyone builds one of these and I will be posting the first HF soon. I have one about complete. Thanks again:wave::type:
 
Just an update. I Sunday afternoon and I am really happy with the way it works. Really smooth. I will post the HF that I am working on as soon as it is finished. Going on vacation this week for a visit with grandkids in Oklahoma.:thumb:
 
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