New Kitchen Project

[Doug Sinjem]

Started panel processing for a new kitchen today. It's going to be a euro kitchen. Interiors are hardrock maple melamine. Doors and drawer fronts are maple. Once parts are cut everything will get dadoed for the backs. Then all the pockets will get cut for pocket screws, edgebanding then assembly.
I'll post the progess as I go. Here's a few pics from today
















Doug

 

[Steve Clardy]

Great start!!

Your sheet rack is similiar to my new one. Mines 6' wide and already full

How wide is yours?

 

[Doug Sinjem]

Great start!!

Your sheet rack is similiar to my new one. Mines 6' wide and already full

How wide is yours?

The base is 8 feet but I didn't want togo any further than about 6 feet so I could still have access to the electrical panel. As you can see I still have sheets stacked against the end. I had a horzontal rack but was too hard to use. I like this setup way better.

Should get everything cut, dadoed and line bored tomorrow. Maybe some assembly on sunday.

Doug

 

[Steve Clardy]

I should have made mine 8', but didn't.
I thought 6' would be plenty, storing, sorting.
But I have offcut rips propped beside it now.

 

[Ed Kowaski]

Pocket screws?!......... eeeeeeeeeeeekkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk

 

[Doug Sinjem]

Pocket screws?!......... eeeeeeeeeeeekkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk

Ed I take it you don't like pocket screws? Let me know why. They make a very solid box. I'll post pictures of the box/cabinet construction. The only place I don't use them is attaching the sides to the bottom piece of the upper wall cabinets...I use confirmats there, otherwise you would see the pockets screws on the bottom of the uppers.

Doug

 

[Ed Kowaski]

The reason I commented at all is you've made a serious comitment to quality with your machiney, pocket screws seem completely out of place.

I don't like pocket screws. I think they have very limited application in any quality work. I'd rate them at about the same level as dados and staples for particle board boxes, bad.

In your application, kitchen cabinets, I don't get the point of using them at all. Can't use them on the bottom of uppers. Some installs can't use them on the tops of uppers because the tops are visable. 5/8" gables so the screw is about 1/2" into the board allowing for the taper on the end there is what 3/8" of actual screw. That doesn't inspire any confidence in me. I install seperate finished ends so there would be no need to hide screw heads if I used screws.

That's a start on explaining my eeeekkkkkk.

 

[Doug Sinjem]

The reason I commented at all is you've made a serious comitment to quality with your machiney, pocket screws seem completely out of place.

I don't like pocket screws. I think they have very limited application in any quality work. I'd rate them at about the same level as dados and staples for particle board boxes, bad.

In your application, kitchen cabinets, I don't get the point of using them at all. Can't use them on the bottom of uppers. Some installs can't use them on the tops of uppers because the tops are visable. 5/8" gables so the screw is about 1/2" into the board allowing for the taper on the end there is what 3/8" of actual screw. That doesn't inspire any confidence in me. I install seperate finished ends so there would be no need to hide screw heads if I used screws.

That's a start on explaining my eeeekkkkkk.

First off Ed thanks for your input, I'm always open to opinion. Sorry you don't like pocket screws or faceframes if I remember correctly

But they both have their place. I don't care for dados and staples either but that is the way some people build cabinets.

Not sure what you mean about gables. But the last time I checked that was a roofing term...I'm assuming you are talking about the panel ends of the cabinet when you refer to gables. I don't use 5/8 material for the cabinet boxes....that's just bad It doesn't inspire any confidence in me for a good quality box.

No really I use 3/4 material and the screw goes almost through panel. So it's in there almost 3/4 of an inch. But right you are about not using them on uppers. I use a great screw from Louis and Co. or confirmats, driven through from the outside of the panel and everything is hidden by applied finished end panels.


If you don't use screws or dados then that leaves dowels or biscuts. If you use dowels they won't cut it alone because when the wood dries out and they pull away, look out. Biscuts I feel the same way. Any way to eachs own.


Doug

 

[Doug Sinjem]

Here's a few shots from panel processing yesterday. They were taken from my Brother in laws camera phone










Doug

 

[Doug Sinjem]

Finished assembling all the cabinets today. Drawers next...


First cabinet




More pics













And lastly my new shop dog. The loml put him in the bucket so the forklift wouldn't get him.




Thanks for looking

Doug

 

[Al killian]

The cabinets are comeing along great. Congrats on the new dog.

 

[Chris Mire]

looking good doug.

on the issue of pockets screws, i use em, mainly for my face frames, but i always find some other use for them during construction of installs. i think they are great, i wouldn't use them for fine furniture but that is a different story.

oh and i also use 5/8" plywood, and considering i weigh about 255 and i was standing on some of my lowers the other night installing a hood, i'd say they are pretty stout!!

look forward to finished pics of the cabs doug....good job

chris

 

[Doug Sinjem]

looking good doug.

on the issue of pockets screws, i use em, mainly for my face frames, but i always find some other use for them during construction of installs. i think they are great, i wouldn't use them for fine furniture but that is a different story.

oh and i also use 5/8" plywood, and considering i weigh about 255 and i was standing on some of my lowers the other night installing a hood, i'd say they are pretty stout!!

look forward to finished pics of the cabs doug....good job

chris

Thanks Chris, my remark about the 5/8 was just a joke...5/8" is fine. Since the these cabinets are euros I chose 3/4 material for several reasons. Plus 5/8 plywood is stronger than 5/8 melamine.


Doug

 

[Chris Mire]

doug, i knew you weren't bad mouthing 5/8", i just thought i'd throw that out there, especially since some people in my area get away with 1/2" material for boxes. i used to work for a guy who put in about 200 kitchens a year using 1/2" and never had a call back about it. of course these were all dadoed, glued and nailed.

by the way 5/8 particle board is better than 1/2" which is what i've seen in some prefab cabinets.

thanks for clarifying.

chris

 

[Doug Sinjem]

doug, i knew you weren't bad mouthing 5/8", i just thought i'd throw that out there, especially since some people in my area get away with 1/2" material for boxes. i used to work for a guy who put in about 200 kitchens a year using 1/2" and never had a call back about it. of course these were all dadoed, glued and nailed.

by the way 5/8 particle board is better than 1/2" which is what i've seen in some prefab cabinets.

thanks for clarifying.

chris

I just like using 3/4 because it is easier to work with. I know alot of guys use 1/2" and 5/8". I just don't think it's worth the savings. Once I build the basic box I hot glue the back all the way around which ties everything together and mkes it a very solid box...something you need since there is no face frame to keep the possible racking motion out of the cabinet.

Doug

 

[Chris Mire]

that sounds like a good idea doug, i have no experience with frameless so i couldn't say.

I in no way meant to question your use of materials or methods so i hope i didn't come across that way.

please continue to update as you progress.


by the way, is this the first job you do with the new tools? if so how are you liking your shop set up so far, is the flow of work going ok. i am not looking forward to figuring out a good work flow for my shop. there are just so many options it's hard to pick one.

thanks
chris

 

[Doug Sinjem]

that sounds like a good idea doug, i have no experience with frameless so i couldn't say.

I in no way meant to question your use of materials or methods so i hope i didn't come across that way.

please continue to update as you progress.


by the way, is this the first job you do with the new tools? if so how are you liking your shop set up so far, is the flow of work going ok. i am not looking forward to figuring out a good work flow for my shop. there are just so many options it's hard to pick one.

thanks
chris

No problem Chris you didn't come across that way at all

Yes this is the first real job with new tools. I can't emphasize how important it is to plan your tool layout and work flow together. I spent alot of time and still didn't get it right. It's hard to visualize with just the paper doll cut outs. When I finish this kitchen I'm going to be moving stuff around again to make more room.

Try and figure out what you do the most and lay your tools out for that. The problem with my shop is it's too narrow. Plus the slider takes up alot of space. but that is the hub if the shop and I would be lost without it. Do you have a slider? If not, are you planning to get one? They take up about 23 feet depending on how long of slide you get. This would be a starting point to base all your other tools around, again depending on what type of work you do.

Doug

 

[Chris Mire]

doug,

no, no slider, i drool over them, but for now it's just my new steel city cabinet saw, i could never justify the cost of one of those guys right now. i am trying to start my cabinet business with no debt and although nicer machines would be great, i can make do with less for now. i have played around with set up a little, and right now i'm working in my dad's shop which is the same size as my future shop so that will help me to get an idea of what works and what doesn't.

have you had an oppurtunity to try out that new shaper yet. that is one fine looking machine!!

thanks
chris

 

[Doug Sinjem]

doug,

no, no slider, i drool over them, but for now it's just my new steel city cabinet saw, i could never justify the cost of one of those guys right now. i am trying to start my cabinet business with no debt and although nicer machines would be great, i can make do with less for now. i have played around with set up a little, and right now i'm working in my dad's shop which is the same size as my future shop so that will help me to get an idea of what works and what doesn't.

have you had an oppurtunity to try out that new shaper yet. that is one fine looking machine!!

thanks
chris

I've messed with it a little. When I start making the doors for this job I will post on how I am going to run all the parts..stick, cope, raised panel etc.

Good luck on your new shop and business. You'll sleep better at night with no debt.




Doug

 

[Steve Clardy]

No problem Chris you didn't come across that way at all

Yes this is the first real job with new tools. I can't emphasize how important it is to plan your tool layout and work flow together. I spent alot of time and still didn't get it right. It's hard to visualize with just the paper doll cut outs. When I finish this kitchen I'm going to be moving stuff around again to make more room.

Try and figure out what you do the most and lay your tools out for that. The problem with my shop is it's too narrow. Plus the slider takes up alot of space. but that is the hub if the shop and I would be lost without it. Do you have a slider? If not, are you planning to get one? They take up about 23 feet depending on how long of slide you get. This would be a starting point to base all your other tools around, again depending on what type of work you do.

Doug

You got that right on tool layout.
I've moved several of my machines numerous times. Eithe due to work flow issues, or adding another machine.
When I think I have it right, I spot something that just doesn't fit.
I always have something somewhere that doesn't suit me. Now its my cabinet door hinge boring machine.