Pecan Wood Jar

Dave Hoskins

Member
Messages
5,252
Location
Parker County, Texas
Finished this one this afternoon. Got done before the storms move in, which I didn't know if that was gonna happen or not. Was having a bit of trouble getting some areas as smooth as I wanted. I guess mainly the inside lip of the jar base itself just was being hardheaded. But, it's pretty darn smooth now. Some areas of the main body was just starting to think about getting pithy so glad I used this piece when I did. I don't like wasting wood. The general dimensions are 8 3/4" outside diameter, 7 1/4" inside diameter. Total height is 8 1/4", vessel height is 5 3/4". The depth is only 4 1/2" with a volume measured to 1/2 gallon. I guess the depth is because I didn't want this to be a funnel like a popcorn bowl ended up, and I didn't believe the tape measure. :lemon: Ended up I could have taken at least another 1/2" off the inside bottom area. Oh, well. I used my usual walnut oil and shellac routine.
 

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Thanks, everybody! Yes, Steve. The lid is a bit loose. I do that to allow a bit of swelling of the wood due to humidity. Everytime, literally everytime I can think of that I tried to turn the lids relatively tight, it has come back to haunt me. After wrestling the lid off have to go to the shop and take some off. We can have really high humidity here, even in the summer. So, I learned the lessen of loose lids.
 
Thanks, Darren! That's always good to hear. Ever since I switched from furniture building to turning, I have always worried about lids working right. How tight or how loose to make them. Does that make me a lid worrier??? :rofl:
 
It seems the artists always want the lid to make the "pop" sound when it comes off. Buyers seem to prefer a lid they can lift off without lifting the bowl/jar/container off of the table. Always depends on who is paying for it!
 
Yeah. When I first started turning, I thought it best for the lids to be really tight fitting. One was sitting in the house and it rained. The lid swelled some from the humidity and refused to come off! ARGGG!!! Later it did and I sanded it down to make it looser. Been doing it that way since. I have polled my offline buyers on it once, and they all preferred a looser lid. Yet they did preference the lid having some weight to it so it would seal good.
 
I read Dave's comment about using a tape measure to determine the depth of his box. I never trusted a tape measure but I do trust a depth gauge. I have several of these that I use for boxes, bowls, platters and any other turnings where depth may be critical.

I can supply a short tutorial for making one if people are interested.

Depth gage.jpg
 
Nice looking pot Dave! I really like how the lid fits into the bowl visually.

I can supply a short tutorial for making one if people are interested.

I think the construction is mostly obvious.. but I still have to say that that one is simply lovely..

The other problem I've had there is not introducing parallax errors when figuring out how far in the bottom should be. I mostly solved that by putting a long rule against the chuck/back of the bowl and then referencing off of that for a depth guide.

I guess one could always glue on some cork for a final plug, or turn in a groove for a silicone ring.

I've done the silicone ring trick.. it works... but a lot of the rings aren't super deep (wide... however you measure it). I was noticing this morning that a container in the office kitchen had a lid with something more like a silicone "flap", that seemed like a pretty nice design.. I think you might be able to use mason jar silicon inserts (like: https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Silicone-Sealing-Mason-Jar/dp/B012UP6WWC - probably cheaper somewhere else in bulk...).

I've also been wanting to try an old style twist locking lid like the one below.. but haven't found the right pieces of wood for it yet.


1582056345567.png
 
I guess I might not have been very clear. I use a tape measure to gauge the depth. But, I use a straight edge across the lip and use the tape measure from the center of the bottom to the straight edge. Gives me an accurate depth with no problem. Same as a depth gauge, as I already have the tools to accomplish this the way I do, no need for other tools to keep track of. Also, basically do the same thing for the height. While still on the lathe take the straight edge and place it on the bottom and then measure to the top. I've thought of locking lids, threaded lids using chasers and all that and figgered I sell enough spice boxes and jars using simpler lids, so me is happy, happy, happy. Simple usually sells best for me.
 
It is very difficult to have a snug fitting lid that doesn't warp seasonally in end grain turned boxes that are larger than 4 or 5 inches. It is nearly impossible to not have warping in a turned box from side grain wood. Having turned over 1000 boxes both end grain and side grain I think I have made every mistake that can be made.

Seasonal swelling reminds me of a story that Roy Underhill told. He was on a trip to Japan and was making a country wide tour visiting as many famous carpenters and joiners as possible. He was in the home of a famous joiner who showed him a dovetailed sweater box with a sliding lid. The fit of the lid was so precise that air could be heard escaping as the lid was closed. He remarked to its maker, "During the summer the humidity must make this box impossible to open." The Japanese master replied, "True, but I don't need my sweaters in the summer."
 
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