With a smaller table saw, it's usually the fence that gives the most trouble and the desire for a better saw. If the fence is acceptable, then it's the motor size that becomes unacceptable. Recent smaller saws have universal motors, like electric drills, and they scream when used, so the noise becomes a problem. Another issue is the small saw table size, but this is usually the easiest for a woodworker to correct. Now days people want control of the saw dust too.
So, finding and choosing a table saw that meets your needs and budget usually becomes a trade-off. There seems to be no such thing as a perfect table saw, except the better quality and very expensive new models, but in my opinion, I'm not happy with the new ones either. I've owned about 5 different table saws in my life, some with crappy fences, some with very small motors, and one that was far too noisy. I good old fashioned induction type motor and belt drive is the quietest. 1.5 hp and larger is great and good enough for home shop needs. A good T style fence that rides and locks on a solid front rail seems best. A large table is desired too, but this is a relatively easy fix for woodworkers. Then, sawdust control is a consideration, and finally, can you afford it. I was never happy with any of the saws that I've owned, even some of those purchased new, until the one that I bought 15 years ago. It will likely be inherited and used by #2 son and it will likely last his life too.
15 years ago I went with a clean mid 80's Unisaw with a 52" Unifence and side table. It has a 3 hp single phase motor and was in running and cutting condition when I bought it for $450. I replaced the arbor and motor bearings and the belts, for a total of less than $50. Then I cleaned and adjusted it and the fence for accuracy. It came with a pop-up splitter, so I can use it whenever ripping solid wood to reduce the chance of binding the blade and resulting kick-back.
This is the best saw by far that I've ever owned. Since the purchase, I have added a Wixey digital readout, a DIY out feed table, and bought a Uni-T-Fence extrusion from Peachtree woodworking, adding to my saw cost another $340. The original Unifence extrusion is great, since it can be adjusted for length and can be set for a high or low fence, but it has no T slots. The Uni-T-Fence is a rectangular extrusion that has the T slots, and it's possible to switch back and forth with the original fence easily when the benefits of one or the other are desired. I also added two Grrippers to improve the safety of feeding wood to the saw and have a ceiling mounted laser line generator with a wireless remote, also for improved safety. It shows where the blade is on the top of the work, a cut line to keep me from putting my hands there. If my fingers ever have a red line on them, they are in the wrong place. This is great when blind cutting dados, etc., but handy for safety whenever using the saw. I no longer have a desire for a better saw. I can cut a board to width, move the fence away and cut another, and then move the fence back to the width of the first board and make another. When measured with digital calipers, the first board and this last one are within 0.003" of each other in width. In woodworking, I don't have a need for anything better than that. My only wish is that it had better saw dust control, but most of it ends up in the cabinet below the saw, and I get to shovel it out. I have most of a ceiling mounted Brett Guard that I will be adding above the blade, as soon as I can make the missing parts. I've never liked any other blade guard that I've tried using, but the Brett Guard design seems like it will work for me.
I'm not trying to sell you on replacing your present saw, or even buying a new saw. This is only to show that a good saw can be found that does most of everything desired, for less than $1,000, if you are willing to do some work on it. Figure out what you really need and want in your saw, and then look for what has it, or most of it, that is also within your budget or nearly so.
Charley