I have a Delta Pop-Up Splitter on my mid 80's Unisaw. I usually only use it when ripping solid wood, because that is the only time I've ever had the kerf close up during a cut. Cross cuts on solid wood, and cuts in any direction on plywood, and composites don't have this problem. It took me a couple of years to find one of these splitters, since it was a long since discontinued accessory at the time, but one finally showed up on my local club's swap board, and I bought it.
This Delta splitter is now available again on Amazon for purchase new, but at a crazy high price for what it is.
https://www.amazon.com/DELTA-34-868-Bracket-Splitter-Assembly/dp/B0007SXGQ0 . The Amazon photo shows it rotated 90 deg to the right from the way it would be positioned when installed in the saw. The Unisaws have a 2 bolt mount under the table and behind the blade that these easily attach to. A ball detent in the design holds the splitter in in the up or down position. Once adjusted for the blade position during installation, my pop-up splitter has held it's adjustment well. To use it, I remove the table insert and lift the splitter into position where it snaps into place. I then replace the table insert. It's necessary to have a slot cut in the table insert behind the blade for the splitter, but it's easy to add this, even in shop made zero clearance inserts. the anti kick-back pawls on my pop-up splitter weren't sharp enough when first installed, but this was an easy fix at the grinder. They not only limit kick-back, but their added width above the blade kerf prevents the board from lifting, should it ever begin binding at the rear of the blade.
For a blade guard, I use a ceiling mounted Brett Guard, when I feel that a blade guard is needed for what I'm doing, but I don't use it very often. It's one of the very few blade guards that work well when in combination with the Delta Pop-up Splitter. Many other blade guards either have the anti kick-back pawls already included in their design, or their mounting interferes with the pop-up splitter installation and use. My Unisaw almost never moves from it's position in the shop, but the saw is on an HTC wheeled base frame, so I can move it when necessary. Re-positioning it under the ceiling mounted Brett Guard isn't a high precision requirement, so it is quite easy to do.
I also have a ceiling mounted laser line generator with a 1 button wireless remote attached with Velcro to the top of my Unifence main casting, so I can turn the ceiling mounted laser on and off easily. When On, it projects the cut line on the top of my Unisaw as well as any work being cut. This laser line extends far out in front of, as well as behind the saw. The laser is not very easy to re-calibrate if I move my saw, but it's a great safety feature to have, and it is much easier to keep long cuts feeding tight against the fence by matching this red line to the marked cut line on the work well out in front of the saw. For safety, if my fingers ever have a red line on them, they are in the wrong place. This is especially handy when doing blind cuts, since I always worry about the blade coming through the top surface of a piece of wood as it's being cut this way. The blade adjustment could change, or the wood might not be truly the same thickness at the cut point as it is elsewhere, and the blade could break out through the top surface. This isn't very likely to happen, but my fingers should never be there anyway.
Charley