Sideboard for the Dining Room

[glenn bradley]

I've reached a phase where you work all day and it looks like nothing happened . I glued up the front frame.

I over-looked or over-glued one joint and was disappointed to find this.

I tried to channel Toni and carve my way out of it. I think I can work with this.

I was mentally struggling on how to process the glue up of the front and back frame subassemblies to each other. I realized I could use pocket hole screws as clamps instead of actual clamps for the divider panels.

This let me do the glue up on the bench. The side panels are dry fit with tenons in place. My primary focus here is true and square for the internal structure, front, and rear frames.

Like I said. All that work and you can't see a thing.

 

[Rennie Heuer]

Pocket screws are our friends.

 

[Ryan Mooney]

Like I said. All that work and you can't see a thing.

The best way

 

[Tom Niemi]

But all the sudden, it all comes together

 

[glenn bradley]

My buddy who helped me build the shop is down for a visit. I put him to work processing drawer box blanks.







The vertical dividers are in and the end panels are on.

The carcass is effectively complete except for some internal structural elements.

The upper and lower vertical items are anchored via some strips of plywood. The lower one is for divider panel lateral strength. The upper ones tie the long stretchers to the dividers and end panels.

The result is a nice solid structure so I am really pleased with that.

 

[Vaughn McMillan]

It's looking great so far, Glenn.

 

[Brent Dowell]

Always such great work. Looks awesome!

 

[glenn bradley]

Just got back from Texas . . . attended a wedding. Time for some drawer boxes. This is how I usually do the fronts and backs for drawer-lock joinery boxes.

The push block acts as a backer board to avoid blowout. The clamp is due to my gimpy wrist.

I usually run the sides using a tall fence but these sides are sub-15" so the regular fence is fine. The featherboard lets me concentrate on feed rate and vertical position.

And you end up here.


Now I just have to do that 6 more times.

 

[glenn bradley]

Mostly just gluing up drawer boxes, chamfering the inner edge and shellacking them.

I went ahead and mounted one just so I could feel like I was making progress.
.

 

[glenn bradley]

All drawer boxes are glued up, shellacked, and installed.


We have cut the blanks for the back slats. Ready for profiling.

More exciting progress tomorrow

 

[glenn bradley]

I space these half-lap back slats with 1/8" hardboard strips. I keep these around in different lengths for this purpose.


I wasn't happy with the false front material I originally tried. I cut these from a single board and am more happy with the color and figure match.

I will cut frame parts for the left and right drawers tomorrow.

 

[glenn bradley]

It was great having my buddy visit and helping me out. Now that I am on my own again I need to work around the gimpy-wrist situation . . . it's getting better every day.

I cut the frame stock for the left and right bay drawer fronts. If you refer back to the SU drawing you will see that these drawer fronts are floating panel . . . although false fronts none the less.


My tenoning jig has obviously been setting patiently. Time to clean it up and put it into service.


I added a sac-panel to the cast iron face and drilled screw holes to allow me to quickly attach backer blocks.


I start milling the bridle joints I will use for the frames. I don't really need the strength. I just like to add visual interest.



I use the L fence to cut the cheeks off.



I will save the off-cuts for the glue up process later on. This will make sense shortly. They fit together like so.


You can see that the "fingers" are a bit proud.


This oversize dimension lets me "fit" the drawer fronts to the openings for a good look.

 

[Robert Horky]

details, details, details. You are the master.

 

[glenn bradley]

So here's why you hang onto those cut-offs.

The bridle joint is an open-ended M&T. Since we like the tenon to fit snugly we can sometimes force the outer edges open due to the glue film thickness. The cut-offs distribute the pressure from the clamps and make everything fit nice and tight.
Is it just me or does this look like an M.C. Escher drawing?

 

[glenn bradley]

I know I am limping along on this but I posted a disclaimer at the onset . . . Here's a roughed framed drawer front.

The bridle joint.

In situ.

I wanted this detail to be visible when the drawers were opened.


More to go.

 

[Vaughn McMillan]

I know I am limping along on this but I posted a disclaimer at the onset...

Dude, you get more done in a day than most of us get done in a month.

 

[glenn bradley]

I've settled on a finish. An oil varnish blend with a light bit of coloration.

This is a lesson to take the whole 60 seconds it takes to swap blades. My laziness resulted in some burning.

A swipe with a hand plane cures the problem but the process took longer than swapping the blade would have .

Here's a poplar mock up of the pull design showing proportions and location.

The pulls will be sepele just like the rest of the piece. The mortise is just colored by a felt pen.

In reality this will be a piece of ebony pillowed and proud of the surface.

Ever onward.

 

[Rennie Heuer]

LOVE the pulls!

 

[Ryan Mooney]

This is a lesson to take the whole 60 seconds it takes to swap blades. My laziness resulted in some burning.

I have some cherry and maple that be the blade ever so sharp.. it will tend to burn a bit unless I'm taking a skim cut. I think they wood just has a lot of reaction in it.. so.. yeah. We could claim it was that

 

[glenn bradley]

Moving along.