Some musings on my new MM16...................

[Mark Rios]

I finally got it put together last night. I'll put a blade on it and set up the bearings today. I still feel that this machine is way, way, way more of a saw than my old G0555 and probably more than I will need or can use (while I'm here at this property anyway) but it's nice to have a top notch machine.

The blade guard wasn't too dificult to get aligned and working properly as was mentioned by Sam Blasco and others. Thanks for the pointers on that.

However, while cleaning it up and putting it together, I found some fit and finish items that are a little disappointing.

First, here's a full pic of the machine to fulfill my obligation to Tyler and the Pic Police. Tyler, please accept my apologies for not getting it up sooner. Please tell me where to send the fine.


The On/Off switch is the first thing that I noticed that was kind of wonky. Mounted very noticeably crooked. This will not, nor anything else that I have to post (so far), potentially affect the performance of the saw but I was expecting a little more QC from this highly touted manufacturer.


The next thing that I noticed was, after cleaning off the table of the rust preventative, there is a handprint stained into the table. Someone put their hand on the table (signed it? ) before the rust preventative was applied apparently. I've scrubbed it with steel wool and WD40 for 20 minutes or so and this is the best that I could get it. It's much easier to see in person than it is in the pic.

Also, in the near left corner of the table, the grinding/surfacing marks are still raised considerably and can be felt quite readily. That area didn't get smoothed down apparently.

The next thing was the blade hole cut-out in the center of the table. As you can see from the pics, the back of the hole is very noticeably curved. A penny will fit in the space between the edge of the hole and the plastic filler. And speaking of the plastic filler, it's really kind of a cheesy part. Has anyone else noticed this? It sags between the corners so that I am unable to level it with the table. If the corners are flush, the middle, between each corner, is below tha surface and material can hang up (not safe). If I raise it until the middle is flush, the corners are all above the table surface. I'm thinking of making one out of wood.


One other thing, directly under the handle that raises and lowers the upper wheel, there is a very small dimple(?) where it looks like a piece of welding slag fell on the table and left a very small hole. There is a small raised nub that I will have to sand/file down so that it doesn't stick up.

Anyone have any thoughts or opinions on these items? Not life changing or anything like that but a little disapponting for $2400 (on sale).

And question, if I may? I've attached a length of cord to the saw. The 10 gauge construction cord is approximately 9/16" in diameter so it's too big for the grommet provided but too small to be snug in the plastic nut so that the cord is hanging by the wire ends on the wiring block instead of being supported byt the cord/nut grommet. This isn't a manufacturing issue by any means, just something I've run into because of the size of the cord that I'm using.

Anyone know where I can get a grommet of a different size or some other means of wedging the cord into the nut? I could wrap black tape around the cord and use the tape for a grommet of sorts but tape doesn't really last that long in this application. I'd drill a hole and physically attach the cord to the machine before I used tape.


Thanks very much for you opinions and thoughts.

 

[Greg Cook]

Mark,

Have you contacted the dealer/mfg about these things... Kinda dissappointing for the price, IMO.

That being said, I'd sure like to have one too!

Greg

 

[Mark Rios]

No, I haven't called MM (yet). These items won't affect the performance of the saw. But I did want to see what you folks had to say about these items. This is my first high end tool (no offense to my Grizzly jointer or my Uni ) and I don't really know what is acceptable on this type/level of machine.

 

[Charlie Plesums]

The MM line is industrial machinery... and if it arrived in a customer's factory with a burr, the users would grab a file and the burr would be gone in no time, without getting the foreman or purchasing folks involved. I hear MiniMax is all over Centauro (the manufacturer) to improve fit and finish for the hobby customers, and is making some progress, but it ain't perfect yet.

The plastic filler is usually sanded flush with the table. If you make one from wood be sure to put lots of holes in it, for air flow in dust collection.

If it is like my MM24, you can take off the stupid locking stop button (apparently required in Europe) and use the real buttons underneath.

Have you tried cutting some wood with it?

Incidentally I have kept my G0555 for use with a 1/4 inch blade for rough cutting curves, so I don't have to change the 1" blade on my MM!

 

[tod evans]

mark, charlie hit the nail on the head.......centauro/scmi are industrial producers whom minimax has contracted with to build the equipment that they market to small shops and hobbiests.....to the factory and most small shops fit-n-finish cosmetic issues are non-issues....does it work? and will it keep workin`? are the big issues to these folks......i think,(but don`t know) that some of the price increases on equipment may be due to the "make pretty" asthetics that minimax is screaming for? enjoy your new saw! it`ll still be cutting long after you`ve scratched the paint, scared the table and smoked several set of guides ......as for the cord..try a wire strain relief fitting.........i made table inserts for my big saw out of baltic `cause i didn`t like the factory one.....the one on my old style 16 fit fine and is still on the saw......now let`s see some sawdust on that thing ..tod

 

[Jim DeLaney]

No, I haven't called MM (yet). ..This is my first high end tool...and I don't really know what is acceptable on this type/level of machine.

Mark,
What you've got isn't acceptable. Since you've got pictures of all the defects, I'd forward your massage, above, to MM's customer service, and their President, in the form of an email. Then, if they havent contacted you within a couple days, YOU call THEM and ask them what they're gonna do about your defective product.

 

[Jay Fields]

Mark,

Congrats on the machine. I’ve had an MM16 for a few years now, and will be the first to say I’m not worthy.

I thought the plastic filler was kind of cheesy also. I tried to make a wooden one, but the sides to the hole are anything but straight or square. So I still use the plastic filler, with the out-feed side raised a hair above the table surface height.

One note, don't use the table top as a hand hold when muscling the machine into position. Cast iron is actually pretty flexible. I noticed a table top flatness problem a few months after I bought it. This was easily corrected by four bolts under the table.

She ain't as purdy as a Laguna, but she'll rip thru stock that other 16 inchers will baulk at. Let's see some pics of book-matched veneer cut from a 12 inch wide oak slab.

J

 

[Mark Rios]

Jim D. and Greg, thanks for the sentiment. However, I'm just not sure that I want to call and complain about a couple of cosmetic items on a tool. Of the times that I listed, the only thing that really kinda bothers me is somebody else's hand print on my machine. But I'm just not bothered by any of those things enough to call and complain. If the table had a corner cut off of it or something like that then I'd call but not for these items.

Tod, the strain relief is a good idea. I'll check the two electrical supply warehouses near my house for something that will work. Thanks.

And I think that I'll just sand down the plastic block for now and see how that works.

Thanks again.

 

[Greg Cook]

Mark,

Your hard earned $$$ are neither "hobby" nor "industrial". What could it hurt to just ask.... I doubt they will void your warranty if you do!You might even be helping out another member who buys one in the future, by nudging them to take a little closer look and make some changes... Who knows?

Greg

 

[Steve Clardy]

Cord relief as tod suggests.
Sand down the plastic insert.
Tweak the switch some to straighten it up.
Forget about the table. It will get scratched, surface moisture stains.

Get to using it.

 

[Bruce Page]

Mark, my throat cutout/plastic thingy was kind of flakey too. I sanded the plastic insert piece flat and it has been ok since. One of these days I’m going to take the table off and machine the opening square and make a new insert. I just haven’t gotten around to it yet.

 

[Travis Porter]

Mark, I had the same issues and more on my MM24. Unfortunately, mine arrived damaged from the trucking depot.

For the switch, you can straighten that up. It is really easy the way they have it. For the cord, go to the Borg and get you a 3/4" cable to metal box adapter. It fit the hole for mine. I have gotten used to the switch and actually like it. Most of the time I now use the foot pedal to shut the saw off as I like the blade stopped when I walk away from it.

As for the top, Empire coatings makes a cleaner that works wonders. Don't buy the kit as it is a rip off, just a bottle of their cleaner/sealer and go to it with a scotch brite pad. I had the same issue with my shaper as it was a floor model and it worked wonders.

I too was disappointed, but once you get it running and cutting you will realize you have a lean mean cutting machine like you have never seen.

I too expected a perfect machine in fit, finish, etc. Now I realize it really isn't what MM is about. It is about a high end cutting machine.

Believe me you won't regret it. It took me about a week after getting my replacement parts installed to realize what I have.

 

[Mark Rios]

Mark, I had the same issues and more on my MM24. Unfortunately, mine arrived damaged from the trucking depot.

For the switch, you can straighten that up. It is really easy the way they have it. For the cord, go to the Borg and get you a 3/4" cable to metal box adapter. It fit the hole for mine. I have gotten used to the switch and actually like it. Most of the time I now use the foot pedal to shut the saw off as I like the blade stopped when I walk away from it.

As for the top, Empire coatings makes a cleaner that works wonders. Don't buy the kit as it is a rip off, just a bottle of their cleaner/sealer and go to it with a scotch brite pad. I had the same issue with my shaper as it was a floor model and it worked wonders.

I too was disappointed, but once you get it running and cutting you will realize you have a lean mean cutting machine like you have never seen.

I too expected a perfect machine in fit, finish, etc. Now I realize it really isn't what MM is about. It is about a high end cutting machine.

Believe me you won't regret it. It took me about a week after getting my replacement parts installed to realize what I have.

Hey...that metal box connector is a great idea. I never even thought of that. I've got 15 or 20 of them in my electrical buckets. I'll get that baby put on in the morning. Thanks Travis.

I went and put my straightedge on the table and found that the whole left end of the table is lower than the rest of the table, roughly .010 across the whole end. The table just kinda drops off on that end. That is apparently why it didn't get surfaced fully; The left end was lower than the majority of the table surface. It's about the last 4" or so. The rest of the table is relatively flat, with there being about .004" or less gap around the blade hole. I wouldn't know what to do with a veneer, let alone be able to successfully apply it to something so the majority of the work that the saw will do will be making skinnier material out of fat material so the table shold be fine for that. I made a few bandsaw boxes with my G0555 when I had it and that was fun but it will probably be quite awhile before I have time to use the saw for hobby stuff. I've also got some logs to cut up and I'm looking forward to using the saw for that.