Subfloor Divot Repair?

Brent Dowell

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
15,104
Location
Reno NV
So, ripping up a little more parquet flooring before we get some carpet installed on Tuesday.

Well, the parquet in the kitchen came up pretty good, until I got to a place where the previous owners had nailed down the 1/2" particle board underlayment with ring shank nails. I thought that was hard to rip up.

I'm doing a small section today by the front door and hallway, and apparently, they not only used ring shanks to hold the underlayment down, but they splurged on some construction adhesive as well...

So, everynow and then when I pull up some of the underlayment, some of the subfloor comes up as well leaving some ragged long divots.

Do I need to fill these somehow before the carpet gets layed? What should I use?

Thanks!
 

Brent Dowell

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
15,104
Location
Reno NV
Sharon read online to use the water putty, or modified thinset for shallow ones. Looks like I'm going to run to town and get some, cause at the rate I'm going, it'll be quite a while before I get this little section up...:bang:

And I'll need to make sure I get the divots repaired tonight so they have time to setup...
 

larry merlau

Member
Messages
18,313
Location
Delton, Michigan
brent dura bond 90 will work as well,, its what alot of drywallers use for the first coat, its hard doesnt shrimk and sets up fast 90 stands for the time frame for hardness mix with warm water and it willgo alitle faster,
 
brent dura bond 90 will work as well,, its what alot of drywallers use for the first coat, its hard doesnt shrimk and sets up fast 90 stands for the time frame for hardness mix with warm water and it willgo alitle faster,
He already left for the store but I called him. He's going to check it out to.
Thanks Larry and Steve (this day has long written all over it :rofl::rofl:)
 

Jim DeLaney

Moderator
Staff member
Messages
6,224
Location
Austintown, Ohio
Definitely fill the divots! In a previous house, we had a couple missing linoleum tiles (on a slab) and thought we could just install carpet and thick padding over them. WRONG! After a few months, you could see the print of every missing piece of tile, and we had to take up the carpet, fill in the missing tiles, and re-lay the carpet. Definitely a posterior pain generator!
 
I was doing the shaving with the "Multi Functional Power Tool". Following up behind Brent breaking out the big pieces. He took over when he got finished and I continued with nail pulling. I think this is what they call "team work".

Good thing the carpet doesn't get delivered till Tuesday. I think we need the extra day to make sure everything is ready :);)
 

Dom DiCara

Member
Messages
863
fill the divots....remember carpet gets stretched and you will have what boils down to a crater if you dont

+1 on the durabond
 

Brent Dowell

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
15,104
Location
Reno NV
Thanks for all the advice guys. Just doesn't seem right to get expensive new carpet and not do the proper prep work.

It's not that I hate parquet in and of itself, it's just that the stuff that is/was on every floor here was so poorly laid. The corners didn't match up, there were gaps growing between the tiles in places. Just ugly.

I'm very lucky the kitchen stuff wasn't laid down like this little stretch or I would have lost my mind. I was literally prying it up almost tile by tile. Every now and then I'd get lucky and get 4 or 6, but not very often.

The had large quantities of the goop all around the edges and during the removal I managed to remove the top layer of the ply in quite a few places.

Don't know what I would have done without the oscillating multi tool. It really saved the day in cutting/melting the construction adhesive so I could get the stuck on pieces of particle board up. Sure I was on the floor for a couple of hours with it and I can barely feel my hands, but it did a great job... :thumb:

Here are a few pics.

When I got back from the borg with the patching stuff, There she was going to town!
floor_NIKONS1_20101205_145835_4019.jpg

She caught a pic of me using the multi tool
floor_NIKONS1_20101205_152102_4021.jpg

An example of the particle board underlayment stuck to the floor. Using the blade on the multi tool it made it not too bad to cut the glue and peel the pieces off.
floor_NIKONS1_20101205_160957_4022.jpg

examples of where the ply was ripped...
floor_NIKONS1_20101205_161014_4025.jpg

Some floor leveler compund. There was a bunch of similar products, fixitall, rock hard water putty, this, and something else. This actually said 'floor leverl', so I bought it. And it had the number 90 on it, like the product Larry suggested... :rolleyes:
floor_NIKONS1_20101205_161052_4026.jpg
 

larry merlau

Member
Messages
18,313
Location
Delton, Michigan
i hope yu got enough,, looks like yu got a real mess there brent.. its to late now but maybe some heat would have softened that glue to help in getting them up..
 

Brent Dowell

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
15,104
Location
Reno NV
i hope yu got enough,, looks like yu got a real mess there brent.. its to late now but maybe some heat would have softened that glue to help in getting them up..
Heat would probably have worked, but I'm not sure how I could have heated up enough of the floor to make it come off easier, especially since the ringshank nails really still had quite a grip! I just used a pry bar and a hammer.

Once that was done, the multi tool really did make pretty short work of it. Kind of like a dull knife through cold butter :rofl:
 

Brent Dowell

Administrator
Staff member
Messages
15,104
Location
Reno NV
I may have questioned the lineage and intelligence of the previous owners more than once....

Hey, This isn't the last time I'll be doing this. I'm wondering if there is a way to heat up the floor to make it easier to break the adhesives bond. Wondering if putting an electric blanket on the floor for an hour or two would work... :huh:
 

Chuck Thoits

Member
Messages
4,046
Location
NH
Ok so it looks like your taking the underlayment up also? Is the subflooring 3/4" T & G ?
If it is not than you should be putting a new underlayment in.
 

Chuck Thoits

Member
Messages
4,046
Location
NH
brent dura bond 90 will work as well,, its what alot of drywallers use for the first coat, its hard doesnt shrimk and sets up fast 90 stands for the time frame for hardness mix with warm water and it willgo alitle faster,
I seen a lot of drywallers. And I aint seen a good one use that stuff for more than a quick fix that has to be done today.:thumb:
 
Ok so it looks like your taking the underlayment up also? Is the subflooring 3/4" T & G ?
If it is not than you should be putting a new underlayment in.
Brent is cooking chili now, but he said to say that the subfloor is 3/4". Also the joists below are 6x10 with 24 inch spacing. He's a lot a less worried about the integrity of the flooring, now. We just need to screw the subfloor down more so it doesn't squeak :wave::wave:
 

Chuck Thoits

Member
Messages
4,046
Location
NH
Make sure that the joints in the sheets move together if they move at all. If one sheet moves independently from the other than you need to fix that or it will show thew the carpet.:thumb:
 
Top