table saw problem

[Stuart Ablett]

Chris, thanks for the pics

Have you checked the bearings? If one of them has packed it in, then the motor will be down on power and "Growl" as you said. They should spin super smooth, no noise at all, if there is any roughness or if they stick at all, they should be replaced.

Can you get the armature out of the motor? If you can, does it have any damage on it? If the bearings are really bad, I would think that you would notice, but check them, they are NOT expensive, and they are easy to replace, if you don't have a bearing puller, buy one, they are very useful tools to have a round.

That plastic fan, what a pain that looks like, pry too hard and I be it would break. This is another place where a good puller would be of use, just put some pressure on it, and then tap the motor shaft, and it would have come off easier, well maybe

If they want your motor to look at, for warranty repair, how long will that put you down? If you really need the saw and they want it for 2 weeks, I'd think I'd try to fix it myself.

Really these things are not complex, replace the capacitors, and the bearings, check and clean the switch, make sure the wires are all connected and the connections are clean, and that should be it. About the only other thing I can think of, is wiring on the saw it self, if a connection somewhere there is bad, you could get these problems.

Best of luck, this kind of problem sucks.

 

[Stuart Ablett]

The tech guy says it is a leeson. Found Allen screws holding the belt pulley on but can't get them loose. I am on my phone now will load pics when I go back inside

Thanks
Chris

I guess you got it off, but a little tip, it you are having trouble with the locking allen screws, take a punch, not a pointed one, but a flat tipped one, and tap on the end of the key that the allen screws tighten down on, this can sometimes loosen up the allen screws.

FYI!

 

[Chris Mire]

thanks stu, i will try that trick with the key tomorrow.

i cleaned the fan side because that is all i could get to. everything looks good. when i spin the shaft i don't hear any grinding and there is no resistance.

as for the warranty stuff, i really have no idea. i know there is no problem with anything from the plug to the motor because i stole a 3hp motor out of a unisaw my dad has that he doesn't use. wired it up and it ran like a champ.

so worse case i can substitute my motor with the uni motor for awhile, actually a long time.

i'll let you know tomorrow if i can get the other cover off, i have no idea what it is called.

thanks for the help

 

[Bob Meyer]

Another pulley set screw tip... Sometimes they put two screws in the hole to lock it. Check for a second one if it doesn't loosen up. I like the idea of tapping the key also.

Bob

 

[Stuart Ablett]

Another pulley set screw tip... Sometimes they put two screws in the hole to lock it. Check for a second one if it doesn't loosen up. I like the idea of tapping the key also.

Bob

Thanks Bob, I forgot to mention that one, yeah, could be your problem Chris, this is actually quite common on quality motors, two set screws in each hole.

Great catch Bob

 

[Chris Mire]

haven't had much time to mess with the motor today. i got a call about some veneer bubbling on the finished ends of some cabinets i put in recently. and now i have things to do with my family. my wife works all weekend and there is no one to watch my son, so i guess i am outta luck till monday, which will be consumed with fixing the plywood on those cabinets. who knows when i will have time to fix this thing.

the set screw won't budge, but it's confusing because i tried standard and metric sizes and i can't seem to find a size that is just right for it. i need to try the tap method and see.

worse case the rep tells me i can bring the motor to a dealer in new orleans to be fixed under warranty if a problem is found.

i'll let you know what happens

thanks
chris

 

[Chris Mire]

ok so the motor is fixed thanks to a local repair shop. seems it was a bad capacitor, the run capacitor and when I put the good one back in I had the wires mixed up. they checked everything else and it looks fine. he told me that the motor was pulling 94 amps before and is only pulling 4 amps now. wow, no wonder it was tripping the breaker.

set me back $125 but thats better than 500 for a new motor.


thanks for all the help.
chris

 

[glenn bradley]

Hip-hip-hooray! Glad you got it fixed.

 

[Chuck Thoits]

ok so the motor is fixed thanks to a local repair shop. seems it was a bad capacitor, the run capacitor and when I put the good one back in I had the wires mixed up. they checked everything else and it looks fine. he told me that the motor was pulling 94 amps before and is only pulling 4 amps now. wow, no wonder it was tripping the breaker.

set me back $125 but thats better than 500 for a new motor.


thanks for all the help.
chris

There is a lesson right there for ya. Take pics of the wiring before disassemble just so you have a refrains when it's time to go back together.
I know that has saved my but a few times.

 

[Tom Niemi]

There is a lesson right there for ya. Take pics of the wiring before disassemble just so you have a refrains when it's time to go back together.
I know that has saved my but a few times.

I have argued with my self over the same thing pics, pics, pics, man they have saved me more times the I want to admit for so many different reasons
Happy you have your saw up and going again Chris

 

[Stuart Ablett]

Yep, take pics, but not just for wiring, lots of things, most of us have a cell phone that has a decent camera in it, just snap a few pics and it can save a LOT of trouble later on.

$125, yeah better than $500, and I'm glad you got it going again!

 

[larry merlau]

better get back to work chris, those customers arent gonna wait for ever

 

[Rob Keeble]

Glad you got it fixed for a relatively decent price Chris. Thats the thing about Capacitors. Depends on the dilectric inside. Some dry up then they aint no good.

 

[Harvey Morton]

Tabel saw motor problems too.

i need to replace the motor on my 10" Craftsman table saw. the motor will spin, but only if I pull on the belt to "jump-start" i don't like doing this, very dangerous. I have been to the Sears parts dept, but they don't provide the complete motor, replacement
parts only. when they look up the saw, a motor is not shown on the parts break down.
this is what is on the motor label plate.
Craftsman
capacitor start power tool motor,
1 hp 115 volts,14.0 amps,60 ctc,
3450 rpm, 1 phase

The motor model # is 113.12170
The saw model # is 113.29960

i would like to upgrade to a 2 hp if I can
any info is appreciated.

 

[Don Baer]

If it won't start unless you give it a push then it's probably the capacitor. Replace it and the motor will be should.f be fine.

 

[Harvey Morton]

Thanks Don, there was a capacitor on the parts list for the motor. when i took the capacitor off my motor both wires were the same color and i didn't see any +,- indications. does it not matter which wire goes where?

 

[Don Baer]

Not it doesn't matter with AC if you were using DC it would matter.

 

[Harvey Morton]

thanks Don, I'll order it from sears parts and let you know.

 

[Don Baer]

Harvey,
One other thought. There's a centrifical switch in the end of the motor that takes the starting capacitor out of the circuit one the motor is up to 2/3 speed. I'f the contacts are not closed it will keep the cap out of the circuit. Take the end bell off the motor (the end opposite the shaft) and try blowing the motor out with compressed air, Oh and make sure you unplug the motor prior to doing this.