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The craft and pottery space

Darren Wright said:
Side note, just out of HS I worked for a year at a Pier One furniture store. My manager found I had a knack for assembling things, so I spent a lot of time assembling the shelving they used, which she called "Lundia" shelves. The word stuck with me and I found the name was the manufacturer of the shelving.

The shelving was very configurable, and I know for a fact they can hold a lot of weight. I thought it might work well in her studio for supplies and drying racks. I was a bit sticker shocked at the price of some of it though.

Doing some googling, it looks like a lot of potters are using the IKEA Ivar shelving, which is very similar. There are pins about every inch or so for raising/lowering shelves, there are also additional bins, shelves, doors, and other accessories to purchase to make them more configurable. They are unfinished pine, so making custom accessories shouldn't be a problem.
www.ikea.com

IVAR System

Shop our IVAR storage system and customize your space. The system is designed so you can combine different pieces to suit your space.
www.ikea.com www.ikea.com

I probably could mill out some these, but got enough projects for my near future, so these may be what we go with to start with, at least some basic shelves.
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We put in the 4 section one for her pottery space and it still is not enough. Be sure to secure it to the wall. You could build one better but you can't beat the price nor the time savings.
 
I worked on leveling the ceiling today. I setup my rotary laser on the front wall. Because the front wall is an inch lower than the rear wall, the ceiling had to drop up to the front wall 3.5” overall, 2.5” max to the back wall. I took some pics trying to capture just how bowed the bottom cords were, but the new nailers attached show it much better.
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I still need to add some cleats to the walls to attach the osb to be inline with the ceiling, but need to cut some 2x4s down first.

I got the outside prepared for installing the windows tomorrow. Need to finish unloading materials for the kiln room first though. I also need to frame the new entry door for the garage side and swap the old door over to it and install the new door.

My wife also finalized her layout, though I asked her to come up with a couple of alternatives too, just to make sure I’m covering electrical and lighting for them too.
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We've got an anniversary coming up, so started purchasing a few things she wants for her studio. She was wanting a large rolling table, but most of the time she wants to park it against the wall. We decided one of the adjustable height tables would work best, so ordered her the 72" husky version with the double drawers. I think someone here has either added a shelf or some organizers under theirs on the lower cross support, which I may do, at least a shelf.

husky-workbenches-holt7202bj2-64_1000.jpg

www.homedepot.com

Husky 72 in. W x 24 in. D 2-Drawer Adjustable Height White Worktable with Solid Wood Top HOLT7202BJ2 - The Home Depot

Give a decorative look to your home space by selecting this amazing Husky Adjustable Height Work Table in White.
www.homedepot.com
 
Darren Wright said:
We've got an anniversary coming up, so started purchasing a few things she wants for her studio. She was wanting a large rolling table, but most of the time she wants to park it against the wall. We decided one of the adjustable height tables would work best, so ordered her the 72" husky version with the double drawers. I think someone here has either added a shelf or some organizers under theirs on the lower cross support, which I may do, at least a shelf.

husky-workbenches-holt7202bj2-64_1000.jpg

www.homedepot.com

Husky 72 in. W x 24 in. D 2-Drawer Adjustable Height White Worktable with Solid Wood Top HOLT7202BJ2 - The Home Depot

Give a decorative look to your home space by selecting this amazing Husky Adjustable Height Work Table in White.
www.homedepot.com
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I have the 60" version and love it! I build entire projects on it. Great for making space (rolling it out of the way) when I need to and a real back saver when building large project - not having to work on the floor. My cherry sideboard and the Tansu were built entirely on that table.

PS - I think Glenn is the one that has done the modifications.
 
I got the puck lights put up and wired. I cut some 6” x 8” pieces of 1/4” plywood and cut 4 1/4” holes to temporarily mount the lights close to their final locations to let my wife make the final call if we need more lights or not. Also went through the color selection to get sign off, she preferred the 3000k color. We'll see how it looks with paint and such, can always pull the puck and reach up and change the setting.
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So I did some investigating on the issue with the last panel being out of plumb. I noticed the end wall of the garage was about the same distance overhanging the concrete wall, with about 2" of space between the metal and concrete wall. Looking inside the bottom couple of purlins are also much thicker in the last 5' - 6' of the end wall, this is the board between siding and base plate, behind the shovel in the pic below.
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My first thought was that something happened with the concrete form and it bulged out when he poured it. Using my inspection camera I was able to look up into the space and it seems that it's wide open up to the purlin. :huh:

I'm guessing her grandpa must have sided the front before that side, and to keep the siding looking uniform, he tapered that out to match. :dunno:

So it's looking like I'll need to remove at least the bottom half of screws on the first 6' to 7' of that wall siding and see if I can replace the purlins with thinner ones to adjust the alignment for the front.

My other task on the outside is to install bottom trim to the siding to keep critters from going up between the ground behind the siding into the wall cavity inside. At my last shop I did this by stuffing with steel wool and spray foam in each of the little pockets. I've since learned that there is such a thing as bottom trim (or rat guard as some call it). My only issue with installing the bottom trim is that the metal siding is overhanging the concrete by about 4" all the way around the building. The only option I've come up with to attach the bottom trim and not have fasteners push against the concrete, creating a gap behind the bottom trim, is to drill through both the siding and bottom trim, into the concrete, and attach it using tap-cons. My only issue is the aggregate used in the concrete has some granite mixed in, so I'll go through a lot of bits and may not be an easy or pretty job. I've at least purchased some diamond bits to try and will use a sprayer to wet and cool the bit

I possibly could cut some 1/2" treated lumber strips and wedge behind the bottom trim and concrete, and use 1/2" metal screws to join them and hold the wood in place, blocking the gap. I may need to do this in some un-even areas anyway, but doesn't seem like a good long-term solution, but might work. I'd like to avoid using spray foam as we'll probably re-side the building in the future and we'll raise the siding up to fix the issue with attaching bottom trim then.

Open to any other solutions, but may revert to using spray foam and steel wool again and not do the bottom trim at all. I'll need to make a decision soon as electrical will be done and I'll be ready to move on to insulation and wall sheeting.
 
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It looks like there's a good 1-1/2"gap to close at the bottom of the metal where the sheets meet. Are thinner purloins going to make that up? No experience with this type of metal, but if there's any room for adjustment at the overlap, even an 1/8th of an inch, maybe you could pick up a bit more by adjusting the panels under the windows?
 
Ted Calver said:
It looks like there's a good 1-1/2"gap to close at the bottom of the metal where the sheets meet. Are thinner purloins going to make that up? No experience with this type of metal, but if there's any room for adjustment at the overlap, even an 1/8th of an inch, maybe you could pick up a bit more by adjusting the panels under the windows?
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Yeah, I guess that was what I was trying to explain, between thinner purlins and fudging the metal a bit, I think I can close that gap up.
 
I'll still go over this with the power washer and probably a Mr Clear eraser in spots, but washed up the front a bit to make sure I wasn't missing any major flaws before screwing down the rest of the metal, which I'll work on tonight or tomorrow night. They are calling for rain after Thursday, so need to fix the leak on the roof as well before then to be sure it's not still leaking after.
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Found my roof leak. Replace with a new screw/seal.
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I removed all the screws from the last sheet and corner trim and shifted the bottom over where it met with the previous ridges. I’ll straighten out the end wall and corner trim when I replace the corner trim. This did leave the conduit with my network fiber cable a bit cooked.
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But had a work around for that.
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Also got the holes drilled for running electrical through the walls, have a few more to do, but burned up my drill. 🔥
 
I got much of the electrical done tonight, but still need to tie the new circuits into the breaker panel. My wife added a few new outlets, at least before running wire.

I still need to wire for the kiln and ca couple new circuits for the garage side. I’ll also be adding additional outdoor lighting circuits. I should get a new box of Ethernet cable tomorrow for adding new cameras
 
A inside camera facing your kiln if your kiln controller does not have remote monitoring via phone or internet would be nice. Our kiln does not but we will upgrading it this coming winter. In the meantime I will be putting a camera at the kiln. I think it would still be nice to have even with remote monitoring. When you consider that the kiln gets up to 2185F (@ hot cone 5 or cone 6) it sure makes for a peace of mind to be able to just peek at everything to make sure everything is alright from your house.
 
Bill Satko said:
A inside camera facing your kiln if your kiln controller does not have remote monitoring via phone or internet would be nice. Our kiln does not but we will upgrading it this coming winter. In the meantime I will be putting a camera at the kiln. I think it would still be nice to have even with remote monitoring. When you consider that the kiln gets up to 2185F (@ hot cone 5 or cone 6) it sure makes for a peace of mind to be able to just peek at everything to make sure everything is alright from your house.
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I'll do that. I've been buying some of the Tapo cameras, the stick up outdoor versions can be bought for about $30 and have a pretty good low light sensor for getting good images.
 
Darren Wright said:
I'll do that. I've been buying some of the Tapo cameras, the stick up outdoor versions can be bought for about $30 and have a pretty good low light sensor for getting good images.
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Thanks for the tip about those cameras. We've got a few cheapie wireless cams around the house and yard but their motion sensing is pretty spotty and the app they use leaves a lot to be desired. Might be time for us to go with wired cams.
 
Vaughn McMillan said:
Thanks for the tip about those cameras. We've got a few cheapie wireless cams around the house and yard but their motion sensing is pretty spotty and the app they use leaves a lot to be desired. Might be time for us to go with wired cams.
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Those are still wireless and need a wall wart to power them. They are IP66 rated, but I'd keep them under an eave or something for shelter still.

For the front of the garage, I have a mix of POE (Power over ethernet) IP cameras that I record using the BlueIris software. Unfortunately the sensors on each are a bit different and I still have some blind spots, even with 3 of them (one at each end, one in the middle). I'm looking to update them with dual sensor IP cameras that have a 180* view and record as a single camera.

I should be able to get by with just two of those, one at each end. With each doing 180*, they should cover all of the front of the garage, as well as, the front of the shop and front porch of the house.

I bought two of these recently and plan to install them at one end of the house and another at the end of the shop. The top camera is fixed, but the bottom has PTZ control and telephoto lens.
 
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